If you guys are planning on using Schedule 40 304L, watch out. That stuff is extremely hard to cut...especially if you plan on making a collector.

Here is my practice collector using 1.75" OD 16 gauge steel:




It took me all day to make this thing and most of the day was spent cutting.

Sonny

 

whered you get 1.75 OD?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whered you get 1.75 OD?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Home Depot.

There's no need to use the expensive and hard-as-hell-to-cut metal when you're just practicing and experimenting with angles.

Sonny

 

So, I ordered a lincoln sp135t and it should be here today. it's seems like I should have some fun with it doing the simple tasks I need to do.

 

Hello,

Regarding the list I created, and besides the wrong thickness (schedule 40 instead of 10), is the rest of the items good already? Just the pipe that needs to be changed right? I ask this so that I will know which one to buy..Thanks!

I was wondering what type of steel does anybody recommend on using to make those turbo manifolds? Can you use the tubes that they sell at Home Depot? or does it have to be something else special?

For example, can the one sonny made pictured above be used for a real manifold? not just as for practice? And also, how to you cut those metals? do you use a bandsaw or can you use a hacksaw? (being the fact that hacksaw will take forever)..
Thank you again for the help...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sonny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Home Depot.

There's no need to use the expensive and hard-as-hell-to-cut metal when you're just practicing and experimenting with angles.

Sonny
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used PVC, same size as the stuff im using for my collectors, and its real easy to cut when figuring angles and such.

 

are you using a butterknife or something to cut the 304L? lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sonny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you guys are planning on using Schedule 40 304L, watch out. That stuff is extremely hard to cut...especially if you plan on making a collector.

Here is my practice collector using 1.75" OD 16 gauge steel:




It took me all day to make this thing and most of the day was spent cutting.

Sonny</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you need to be usning schedule 40. 10 is too thin</TD></TR></TABLE>

every one here loves the sch 40 but the thin walled material works verry well thats why burns uses 16ga ss for thier stuff and theier collector is probably the best on the market combine that with some slip fit joints and you have one nice haeder/manifold
but the 40 is verry durable and allows for alot of mistakes and wont ruin the project.

 

almost every thin walled stainless manifold i've ever seen cracks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazerus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">almost every thin walled stainless manifold i've ever seen cracks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i agree allot of thinwalled manifolds crack. look at most of the big $$ race cars and look at what they are using .

im not saying either is beter but when people are stuck on this sch 40 or thicker nothing thinner than that....ect its just another option
like i said in my post before the sch 40 is verry durable thats why allot of people use it.

 

Hello,
I have a few questions that I would like to ask. I was wondering what is the equivalency of a schedule 40 to gauge? Is it like an 8ga or 10ga? Also, what type of metal is better for turbo manifolds to use? 304L or 316L? How about for exhaust and downpipe? would you use the same thickness of metal and type or different?

thank you...

 

for dp's you use regular mandrel bent piping, dont know but 1.5" piping in schd 40 had .145" thick walls. the walls vary by pipe size however, its not a set size.

 

1.5" sched 40 = .145" wall thickness (very close to 10 gauge)
1.5" sched 10 = .109" wall thickness (very close to 12 gauge)
16 gauge = .062 wall thickness

I don't think there is a 16 gauge manifold out there that is designed to support the weight of the turbo. Burns and Hytech can do what they do with thin-wall because there is no weight being hung from it.

Sonny

 

Wow...thank you for the very informative answers!! much appriciated! thank you...now I know what to look for...

The problem is not that I have to learn how to weld...My friend lend me his MILLERmatic 150, it use to come with a tank, but he does not have the tank anymore. I heard that you can use a FluxCore Wire so that I dont need to use a tank? Is that true? If so, how thick of a wire (i have seen 0.030"-0.035") do I need to make a turbo manifold? And what should the be the speed of the wire and the amount of power?

If I use the same fluxcore wire to make downpipes and exhaust stuff, is that ok too?

Thanks again, and sorry to be asking alot of Q's..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazerus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">almost every thin walled stainless manifold i've ever seen cracks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
mine did

Any tips on laying out the collector cuts? Basicly lower angle makes for a longer collector right? Any shortcuts or smart marking techniques?

 

i would never trust a fluxcore welded manifold. maybe maybe for exhaust but nothing else

 

Really huh? hmmm....so for exhaust is ok but not for manifolds...understood! Would it be possible if you can explain as to why it is not recommended?

But if I were to have a tank (CO2/Argon) connected to this welder (millermatic 150), will that be better? because someone said that its ok to use MIG welder for creating a manifold.

Oh, another questions...how thick are those exhaust pipes? My understanding is that they are like normal steel pipes but how thick are they? does anyone know how many gauge? Reason being is that I saw this welder that is for sale cheap, but it runs off 115V (dont know the amprage input), but it can output around 30-70amps, and it can weld from 18-14 gauge. Will that type of welder be effecient to weld exhaust pipes?

Wow, im learning alot here..Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions...

 

I used a mig welder today in my t-ten class and a acetyline (sp?) torch for the first time. It was a lincoln mig welder. Damn 30+ pages is going to be fun to read. I'm all excited about doing some more welding now. I donno if this has already been asked but my teacher really couldn't answer it. The aluminized steel u buy off of jc whitney, is it more like welding steel or aluminum?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pip9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used a mig welder today in my t-ten class and a acetyline (sp?) torch for the first time. It was a lincoln mig welder. Damn 30+ pages is going to be fun to read. I'm all excited about doing some more welding now. I donno if this has already been asked but my teacher really couldn't answer it. The aluminized steel u buy off of jc whitney, is it more like welding steel or aluminum? </TD></TR></TABLE>
STeel.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaboii &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really huh? hmmm....so for exhaust is ok but not for manifolds...understood! Would it be possible if you can explain as to why it is not recommended?

But if I were to have a tank (CO2/Argon) connected to this welder (millermatic 150), will that be better? because someone said that its ok to use MIG welder for creating a manifold.

Oh, another questions...how thick are those exhaust pipes? My understanding is that they are like normal steel pipes but how thick are they? does anyone know how many gauge? Reason being is that I saw this welder that is for sale cheap, but it runs off 115V (dont know the amprage input), but it can output around 30-70amps, and it can weld from 18-14 gauge. Will that type of welder be effecient to weld exhaust pipes?

Wow, im learning alot here..Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions... </TD></TR></TABLE>

that welder should be fine for light jobs. yes add gas to your friends, flux sux. it splatters, and the gas creates a perfect environment for the welding to occur in. but i use my MIG for just about anything (not alum.) and will be making my design budget (but custom)NA headers, log manifolds, and some of my own designs soon

 

Is welding exhaust piping considered a light job? I thought that it was considered heavy and making a manifold is considered SUPER heavy! hahaha.. Well, thats good to hear that it can do light jobs (like installing an exhaust piping) ill go and see how much I can get that 115V welder. Thanks...

How big of a tank should I get for home use (how many lbs?). Also, are there differnt tanks for differnt types of gases? I saw green and yellow color ones...Are those good?

Thank you..

 

mine is green and 70 something CF. has lasted me quite awhile now.


Modified by hybridvteceg at 3:24 AM 2/21/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine is green and 70 something pounds. has lasted me quite awhile now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, alright...i looked at ebay and they go by cubic feet (CF), they sell an 80CF tank for $120usd. Is that cheap? Free shipping...

I have to decide which one to get....either that ligth welding machine 115V or a Tank! hahahaa...

hmmm...

 

Yeah thats pretty cheap for a new tank but I wouldn't buy a new tank since all you're going to do is trade it in for an older but filled tank. Look for a used high pressure 80cf tank or buy one from a welding shop near you to start building a relationship. I got a 130cf tank off of ebay for $50 shipped and traded it in to my welding place for a filled one and paid $30 bucks. Keep an eye out and be paitent and you can normally find something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redlineracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah thats pretty cheap for a new tank but I wouldn't buy a new tank since all you're going to do is trade it in for an older but filled tank. Look for a used high pressure 80cf tank or buy one from a welding shop near you to start building a relationship. I got a 130cf tank off of ebay for $50 shipped and traded it in to my welding place for a filled one and paid $30 bucks. Keep an eye out and be paitent and you can normally find something.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, didnt know that you trade those things..haha, I though you just pay for a refil like the gas bbq tanks. Ok, ill wait and see how much those tanks are.

Thanks for the tip!

 

Well guys. I got a new toy and just felt like sharing in an attempt to keep this thread going! Scored it off a friend for a damn good price(about half of new cost) and it's got only about 3 hours of use! yes only 3, no typo! Let the projects begin. I'll post some pictures of my first tig welds when I get some.