New Welding Thread!
Here's my latest work using a gas torch. The TIG is not quite ready for prime time.
This DP had nothing on the end of it. It needed that 3 inch 3 bolt flange to have something to bolt the cat to.
Sonny
Yeah...I "wasted" like 6 flanges learning the technique. That's a cheap welding class though. After I got the technique I was able to go back and fix the ugly/weak flange welds.
Each setup has its pros and cons, but I think the gas torch is the most versatile setup. You can cut with it, braze with it, weld with it, and heat stuff up and bend it. My wife's learning how to use the rosebud tip to make some art.

I should be firing up my TIG in the next week. I'm excited!!
Sonny
i get my tig on tuesday .. supposed to pick it up today but my engine supplier made me hurry up n get to his shop to pick up my shipment ..
its ok i did a lil mild steel tig at the place tryin it out, not too hard, aluminum sucks though .. gotta turn that **** up WAYYY high ,.. i stuck the tungsten to the plate heheheheh o wells ... ill learn more later - Project DC2
BTW .. on aluminized piping do i have to grind off the alum coating ? or brush it off ?
its ok i did a lil mild steel tig at the place tryin it out, not too hard, aluminum sucks though .. gotta turn that **** up WAYYY high ,.. i stuck the tungsten to the plate heheheheh o wells ... ill learn more later - Project DC2BTW .. on aluminized piping do i have to grind off the alum coating ? or brush it off ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SDT Project EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW .. on aluminized piping do i have to grind off the alum coating ? or brush it off ? </TD></TR></TABLE>
helps to wire wheel it, but it welds just fine.
BTW .. on aluminized piping do i have to grind off the alum coating ? or brush it off ? </TD></TR></TABLE>
helps to wire wheel it, but it welds just fine.
I use just standard copper coated mild steel wire that I get from the local supply house. Here are some tips with gas that were very helpful for me:
1) The torch should almost never be in one spot. In general, it should always be moving. I use a crescent shaped torch movement. Some people use a circular movement.
2) Think of the torch as a spatula. You are using it to create a weld puddle and then "push" the puddle with the tip of the flame.
3) Dip the filler rod into the middle of the molten puddle.
4) You gotta establish a tempo...push, push, dip....push, push, dip.
5) Get the gas welding video from http://www.weldingvideos.com
There's a lot going on this pic. Look at what's happening and try to copy it.

Sonny
cool, your the first person that would tell me what type of filler they used!
What is the idea behind the copper coating? I have been using just mild steel rod and it looks pretty nice. Not quite the row of pennies but smooth and uniform beads. I think I am heating it up too much to you don't see the ridges as much as yours.
I still need to work on my tempo but i am pretty good at manipulating the puddle with the flame. I'll try some of your tips. any informative websites you could recommend, I used all my cash buying gas so I can't get that vid right now.
What is the idea behind the copper coating? I have been using just mild steel rod and it looks pretty nice. Not quite the row of pennies but smooth and uniform beads. I think I am heating it up too much to you don't see the ridges as much as yours.
I still need to work on my tempo but i am pretty good at manipulating the puddle with the flame. I'll try some of your tips. any informative websites you could recommend, I used all my cash buying gas so I can't get that vid right now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sonny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I use just standard copper coated mild steel wire that I get from the local supply house. Here are some tips with gas that were very helpful for me:
1) The torch should almost never be in one spot. In general, it should always be moving. I use a crescent shaped torch movement. Some people use a circular movement.
2) Think of the torch as a spatula. You are using it to create a weld puddle and then "push" the puddle with the tip of the flame.
3) Dip the filler rod into the middle of the molten puddle.
4) You gotta establish a tempo...push, push, dip....push, push, dip.
5) Get the gas welding video from http://www.weldingvideos.com
There's a lot going on this pic. Look at what's happening and try to copy it.

Sonny
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want to get a VID up of my TIGging. somebody that has never done it, really has no clue whatsoever of what goes on behind the mask
I encourage others to do the same!
I use just standard copper coated mild steel wire that I get from the local supply house. Here are some tips with gas that were very helpful for me:
1) The torch should almost never be in one spot. In general, it should always be moving. I use a crescent shaped torch movement. Some people use a circular movement.
2) Think of the torch as a spatula. You are using it to create a weld puddle and then "push" the puddle with the tip of the flame.
3) Dip the filler rod into the middle of the molten puddle.
4) You gotta establish a tempo...push, push, dip....push, push, dip.
5) Get the gas welding video from http://www.weldingvideos.com
There's a lot going on this pic. Look at what's happening and try to copy it.

Sonny
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want to get a VID up of my TIGging. somebody that has never done it, really has no clue whatsoever of what goes on behind the mask
I encourage others to do the same!
LOL I was just thinking about this one time at work when I accidently picked up a silver rod we use for brazing A/C lines and tried to weld 1/4" mild steel with it. Didn't work out too well and I spent an hour and a half cleaning up the steel because the silver was keeping the puddle from forming and a couldn't get anything to stick. Oh well, I was pissed then but I can laugh about it now
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 0
From: Filthadelphia Area, PA, USA
i use laquer thinner cause its what i have handy being in a body shop, anything that doesn't leave a residue should work well enough. then brush with a stainless steel brush and weld.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use laquer thinner cause its what i have handy being in a body shop, anything that doesn't leave a residue should work well enough. then brush with a stainless steel brush and weld. </TD></TR></TABLE>
heheh cool my pops got a body shop so i got a huge 55 gallon drum of that ****.. woot !
heheh cool my pops got a body shop so i got a huge 55 gallon drum of that ****.. woot !
I just burn it off with a light pedal touch, brush it off, burn it again with the TIG, brush, and then go to town baby!
Cody I like your idea :D
Coming up soon:
DOHC neon turbo manifold
3" downpipe for it
IC piping w/dsm flange!
SRT-4 3" turbo back (for friend)
I'll post pics when Im done.
Cody I like your idea :D
Coming up soon:
DOHC neon turbo manifold
3" downpipe for it
IC piping w/dsm flange!
SRT-4 3" turbo back (for friend)
I'll post pics when Im done.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,568
Likes: 0
From: Filthadelphia Area, PA, USA
after reading this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=656189
specifically my question about rear support placement and the response I decided to add a little support to the rear of my roll bar. Here are the pics of the start of it. the plan is to go from the new "strut bar" up at angles to meet the rear supports and connect the whole thing together. If i get bored in the future I think I might add an x brace as well.
specifically my question about rear support placement and the response I decided to add a little support to the rear of my roll bar. Here are the pics of the start of it. the plan is to go from the new "strut bar" up at angles to meet the rear supports and connect the whole thing together. If i get bored in the future I think I might add an x brace as well.
ok question ...... how do you bend the pipes ??? is that mild steel or chromoly ?? what kinda filer do you use .. and hrmm how hard woudl yous ay it is to make a cagte ?
just started learning stainless steel TIG today in welding class and its a lot more tedious than aluminum. props to everyone who posted pics. ive pretty much got aluminum down pretty good ill try posting pics up as soon as i get my hands on a digi cam. what i dont get is how you guys are able to TIG inside a collector and still hold the rod and torch steady.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just started learning stainless steel TIG today in welding class and its a lot more tedious than aluminum. props to everyone who posted pics. ive pretty much got aluminum down pretty good ill try posting pics up as soon as i get my hands on a digi cam. what i dont get is how you guys are able to TIG inside a collector and still hold the rod and torch steady.</TD></TR></TABLE>
SS is more TEDIOUS??? Maybe I shoulda learned on AL first or something, because AL is the bitch to me...lol. Of course when you weld Stainless 70 hours a week since March, anything else would be different
As for the collector...thats a bitch. Bend the torch to the straightest position as possible, and go at er!
SS is more TEDIOUS??? Maybe I shoulda learned on AL first or something, because AL is the bitch to me...lol. Of course when you weld Stainless 70 hours a week since March, anything else would be different

As for the collector...thats a bitch. Bend the torch to the straightest position as possible, and go at er!





