AWD EJ2 Build
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Thats the same idea as mine- remove all gauges that arent necessary..
Dont need a sensory overload lol
Im using 2 serial graphics modules, driven by 3 large PIC micros. They are all interconnected via a low speed serial link, and 2 of the 18Fxxx's communicate the the SGMs via high speed UART.
Dont need a sensory overload lol
Im using 2 serial graphics modules, driven by 3 large PIC micros. They are all interconnected via a low speed serial link, and 2 of the 18Fxxx's communicate the the SGMs via high speed UART.
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
thanks very much mate...
small update tonight..
Ive decided to try something ive been thinking for a while..
I have obtained an EP3 ABS module.. 4 channel, brake force distribution .etc..
I have worked out that it is the modulation of the 4 identical solenoids which control the pressure.
I have started testing the solenoid coils and rewiring so the 2 master cylinder inputs now do front and rear instead of diagonally opposite. The ABS will work as normal with the exception that i will be able to turn it off at an instant and that i can manually adjust the bias by putting a prop valve between the master cylinder and the MC2 input.
For those who are curious- this is what it looked like when i opened it up earlier on.


small update tonight..
Ive decided to try something ive been thinking for a while..
I have obtained an EP3 ABS module.. 4 channel, brake force distribution .etc..
I have worked out that it is the modulation of the 4 identical solenoids which control the pressure.
I have started testing the solenoid coils and rewiring so the 2 master cylinder inputs now do front and rear instead of diagonally opposite. The ABS will work as normal with the exception that i will be able to turn it off at an instant and that i can manually adjust the bias by putting a prop valve between the master cylinder and the MC2 input.
For those who are curious- this is what it looked like when i opened it up earlier on.


Maybe I need to be an electronics engineer instead... then again im STILL reading and having a hard rime understanding ****! Lolz. To think what im trying to build is probably simple to you (marker/brake pwm and sequential taillights) ans you're over here doing this CRAZY stuff... smh... I fail my hat is off to you and I will just have to keep reading! Lolz
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
I wouldnt worry mate- its the sort of thing you pick up over time..
PWM is one of those things that when youve mastered it, you can do lots of interesting stuff with it..
PWM is one of those things that when youve mastered it, you can do lots of interesting stuff with it..
I hope so, been reading for weeks now and I'm still stumped on this, and then there are like 20 billion ways to do the same thing... **** is confusing! lolz
http://www.hrtuning.com/pages/category/tunerviewrd1
I know you are a DIY guy, why not give this a try?
I know you are a DIY guy, why not give this a try?
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
I have started offering my services to people in the UK- im a trader on a british car forum. It is something i would do, but tunerview is awesome because you can reconfigure it yourself. Mine would be custom programmed, very much like my dash..
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Trying to backward engineer the ABS module.
The CPU is rather well hidden. The wires on the right go to the solenoid coils..
The CPU is rather well hidden. The wires on the right go to the solenoid coils..
Last edited by purplecivicturbo; Dec 8, 2011 at 02:03 PM.
what is your interest in the ABS module?? I had a random thought the other day about using the ABS module to control the TCD unit on my CRV's rt4wd system....instead of powering the brakes, some how use the pumps and ecu/wheel speed sensors to apply pressure to the dual pump system in the rt4wd. Instead of using the ABS ecu, I was just going to use eCtune's outputs/inputs to trigger the pulsing of the ABS pumps.
EDIT: I went back and read the previous page...I see what you are doing with the ABS pumps now. i love that you come up with these idea's and then see them all the way through, keep up the great work!
EDIT: I went back and read the previous page...I see what you are doing with the ABS pumps now. i love that you come up with these idea's and then see them all the way through, keep up the great work!
Thread Starter
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
You actually have a very good idea there mate..
Unfortunately THIS ABS module can only remove pressure added by the master cylinder..
If you were to get one from an ESP based car it could work- but there are probably easier ways to do it...
If you could rig up a pressure pump (i dont know the pressure) with a pressure relief valve, then a high speed solenoid valve on its output you would have the same thing. Or if you could run a hydraulic pump into the ABS module, you could use a single one of the valves to shut it off..
You would have to be very careful though- these wires are like hair...
Unfortunately THIS ABS module can only remove pressure added by the master cylinder..
If you were to get one from an ESP based car it could work- but there are probably easier ways to do it...
If you could rig up a pressure pump (i dont know the pressure) with a pressure relief valve, then a high speed solenoid valve on its output you would have the same thing. Or if you could run a hydraulic pump into the ABS module, you could use a single one of the valves to shut it off..
You would have to be very careful though- these wires are like hair...
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
It would be actuated whenever.. Thing is- im not sure where you would (inject) the pressure. The diff is a very well engineered bit of kit.. If i knew where to inject hydraulic pressure, and how much, i would be very interested in doing the same thing.. Instead of using a haldex clutch..
If you drive it with a modulating frequency, you can vary the pressure (like boost control), this would allow the clutch to slip, and to bias torque, you could theoretically have anything between 0 - 50% to the rear..
If you drive it with a modulating frequency, you can vary the pressure (like boost control), this would allow the clutch to slip, and to bias torque, you could theoretically have anything between 0 - 50% to the rear..
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
GOT IT!!
The skyline R32 uses an external pump and valve assembly to control the clutch pack on the front axle prop shaft..
If i could modify that to run off an external computer, and tap it into the CRV actuator it should work- although the actual working pressure may need modifying..
Hmmmm - thinking...
The skyline R32 uses an external pump and valve assembly to control the clutch pack on the front axle prop shaft..
If i could modify that to run off an external computer, and tap it into the CRV actuator it should work- although the actual working pressure may need modifying..
Hmmmm - thinking...
GOT IT!!
The skyline R32 uses an external pump and valve assembly to control the clutch pack on the front axle prop shaft..
If i could modify that to run off an external computer, and tap it into the CRV actuator it should work- although the actual working pressure may need modifying..
Hmmmm - thinking...
The skyline R32 uses an external pump and valve assembly to control the clutch pack on the front axle prop shaft..
If i could modify that to run off an external computer, and tap it into the CRV actuator it should work- although the actual working pressure may need modifying..
Hmmmm - thinking...
lolHere is a link to my photobucket album of all the pictures of a TCD unit that I tore apart.
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...en/TCD%20Unit/
I also uploaded the 6 pages from the Honda Service Manual that outlines the fluid control portion of the TCD unit....hopefully someone can make heads/tails out of it, and we can figure out a place to "tap" into the dual pump system. There are several "plugs" in the case that lead to different passage ways inside the pumps. My thought was to remove a couple of these plugs to gain access to the inlet/outlet of the "pressure plate" activation. (there is a plate that is moved in/out via pressure, and that plate pushes directly on one side of the clutch pack)
Let me know if I can gather any more info/pics for you! I have the TCD unit still tore down at home if there is something you would like to see in greater detail....
Im not sure if you have heard, but the new 2012 CRV uses a electronically control rear diff now. It uses a fluid pump to build pressure and change the rear diff engagement. its pretty trick.
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Its a good idea mate- unfortunately i think it would be alot of effort to make it work with the older non-K series gearbox.
The ratios need to be spot on.. Brandon's suggestion of actually going ahead and modifying the old CRV rear end would suit me perfectly.. And be alot cheaper..
The strength is a problem, but ill cross that bridge when i come to it.. I can manage the maximum torque to the rear diff using the computer so whether i make it stronger or i simply limit the maximum torque it wont stop me..
A little bit of progress today..
Ive disconnected the ABS computer from its solenoids (to protect it), and broke out the connections to an external board for ease.
After some checking of the coil impedance with the meter, i managed to find the common positive and then using a piece of steel, i energised each coil in turn. This allowed me to map out exactly which coil is connected to which electrical point.
I simply need to figure out which coils correspond to which brake channel, and rewire it.. tah dah

The ratios need to be spot on.. Brandon's suggestion of actually going ahead and modifying the old CRV rear end would suit me perfectly.. And be alot cheaper..
The strength is a problem, but ill cross that bridge when i come to it.. I can manage the maximum torque to the rear diff using the computer so whether i make it stronger or i simply limit the maximum torque it wont stop me..
A little bit of progress today..
Ive disconnected the ABS computer from its solenoids (to protect it), and broke out the connections to an external board for ease.
After some checking of the coil impedance with the meter, i managed to find the common positive and then using a piece of steel, i energised each coil in turn. This allowed me to map out exactly which coil is connected to which electrical point.
I simply need to figure out which coils correspond to which brake channel, and rewire it.. tah dah

Have you considered making a heads-up display? I've looked around and not found anything specific to our Hondas. Eventually I want to get a HUD taking input from the datalog connection. You seem to have all the expertise necessary to make this work. I wonder how much interest there would be in making a product like this for OBD1 Hondas.
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From: Preston, Lancashire, United Kingdom
Have you considered making a heads-up display? I've looked around and not found anything specific to our Hondas. Eventually I want to get a HUD taking input from the datalog connection. You seem to have all the expertise necessary to make this work. I wonder how much interest there would be in making a product like this for OBD1 Hondas.
Ive been looking into it a bit on the side but finding a way to do it is difficult. Ive even thought about one of those pocket projectors as the source...
http://www.globaldensoproducts.com/be/hud/






