albertlnguyen

where do you guys get the labels for the harness at? is there a clear heat shrink over it too?

tony413

just use a regular laser label maker and put clear heat shrink over it

rota92

Up lol

Guys who have used that Amphenol bulkhead, is it a backshell based setup on both sides? I HATE those boots all over the place, I use backshells only and that's all I'm interested in using here. I have a few books and stuff at work but come up short with exactly what I'm looking for time after time.

Or if that doesn't have both sides, any idea on if deutsch makes one? Or even autosport?

After the holidays I'll be calling around if I keep coming up empty.

Thanks!

tony413

check here homie they got pretty much everything you need to make a harness from nothing http://www.prowireusa.com/connectors.html

rota92

I like their selection, but the website totally blows and the pics suck lol

I'm not too worried about price, I'm doing my harnesses much different than a lot of guys do them so it may take a few of these to make it work like I want. The problem is I'm so used to the PN's I work with every day I just want to keep working with them only lol

tony413

lol yes the website is poorly designed but it has pretty much everything you need all in one location. its not like when you look on aliedelectronics i love/hate that site.

what are you trying to do with your harness?

rota92

I'll check that other site out as well.

I'm doing all sub harnesses and such, I don't want to be cutting a harness apart in between rounds. I'm sure I'll get flamed for it but it's not a street car so there is literally nothing going on in the bay haha

tepid1

Some of the Amphenol connectors come with backshells. Which line are you looking into?

I have connectors for you bud, but I have had a hard time getting the backshells. To me, the backshells are a must for strain relief purposes, but there are other things you can do too which allows for flex and stress reduction.

rota92

I can always buy the backshells so long as they are available. I'm not really interested in a line per say, but here are some PN's I'm working with right this minute. (5 pins for switches and solenoids, so nothing big but I really am quite fond of them lol)

M83723/83G10056
************57
************5N

The backshell is M85049/52-1-10N

Obviously I want something with more pins but this style is awesome. I really want the racepak harness totally separate from the AEM stuff. I need to get the racepak stuff in order or at least draw it out and talk with them before I really know how many pins I'll need. But all the racepak crap is like another 4k lol

Merry Belated X-mas over there sir

tepid1

I'll run those numbers through FedLog tomorrow and see what I come up with.

acrocat

I want to do a harness like this someday

tony1

Damn. lol There's your M800!

redboost10

here is what we just got done doing. the engine harness for the motec and m&w was already done earlier this year, but we wanted to clean up the interior/lights/cluster harness a bit and get rid of the two fuse boxes. we didnt raychem the interior harness because college financial aid could only support the engine harness to be raychemed.

kataku2k3 (adam) did the wiring

rota92

Tony = Cold caller for car parts lol

But that includes a dash, not a 6k one to match my M800

tepid1

rota92

I'll try to manipulate the PN to find some with more pins, but that's the style I know I like lol

I think a bunch of 5 pins would look pretty odd on the firewally haha

rota92

Oh, FWIW the pins I'm using are a M39029/4-110

tony413

yeah considering you would need like 12 or 14 of them

tepid1

The Amphenol mil spec connectors come with pins already.

rota92

It would make my sub harness idea super easy though haha

I'm trying to find a 15 pin setup we have here, those 60 pin ones get confusing. Thank god we split our stuff into channels so we never have that issue. It would be easier to shrink tube though

Paul1985

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triumph_013

i have a quick question about using the mil spec bulkheads on the firewall...what are you guys doing with the larger guage starter/alt wires? i havent done much research into these connectors and i only know a little bit about wiring, but from the pics it looks like they only allow smaller guage wires to be used...also, im thinking about re-using the oem wires and just soldering in extra wire where i need it...anything wrong with this?

k24em2

There are bulkhead connectors that have provisions for larger gauge wires... allied has a pretty good assortment. As far as anything wrong with soldering, as long as you are good at it there shouldnt be a problem, but running new wire will help alleviate issues arising from a bad solder joint. And as everyone knows, chasing electrical problems is a PITA

triumph_013

thanks for the info...and i agree that running new wire would solve/eliminate problems later on, but i dont think im gonna put that much time or money into it

rip94delsol

What I did for my car since I have the battery in the front left frame rail I just connected the positive wire from the alternator straight to the battery. For the power wire to the starter I used a Moroso bulkhead connector for the battery supply going into the cabin and also just put a wire to the starter for the power and wire the signal wire for both the alternator and starter into the amphenol bulkhead.