Wiring issue with gauges, and cluster :(
So I have both of my gauges wired together, I put an inline fuel pump on the car and I wanted to try it out to make sure it worked. I wired it into the gauges real quick, then later I decided I didn't want to run it and like a dumbass I took the power wire off and it hit the cars frame sparked... Now my speedo, tach, fuel, and temp gauge doesn't work. My cluster has backlights too it.
I didn't wire in the gauges to the car so I'm not 100% certain what was wired into. But the wire was green/yellow. (This is in a 00 Civic.)
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I didn't wire in the gauges to the car so I'm not 100% certain what was wired into. But the wire was green/yellow. (This is in a 00 Civic.)
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I have no idea what the hell you said. It sounds like you have a hack wiring situation going on. Did you check any and all related fuses both in cabin and under hood?
The cluster lights work, the cluster doesn't work. S300 shows my speed, RPM, and temp. That's what I was trying to say.
I read over the fuses and I couldn't find anything related to the cluster other than the lights. But they work.
I checked all the fuses under the dash with a test light the ones that didn't light up I replaced. Some of which still did not light up.. The under hood ones I haven't checked.
I have no idea what specifically I'm looking for and I don't really want to **** it up more than it is now.
Thanks.
I read over the fuses and I couldn't find anything related to the cluster other than the lights. But they work.
I checked all the fuses under the dash with a test light the ones that didn't light up I replaced. Some of which still did not light up.. The under hood ones I haven't checked.
I have no idea what specifically I'm looking for and I don't really want to **** it up more than it is now.
Thanks.
Nice...., if some fuses arent getting voltage check the under hood fuse box. Post a pic of your gauges are they stock? Do you have all the stock cluster wiring?
Green/yellow would be low fuel indicator light supply lead, [sensor lead] it is a ground.
The clusters power lead should be a yellow lead, [cluste may have more then one yellow lead, [more then one power lead] all are protected by the 7.5A "meter" fuse, only other fused power leads to the cluster will be the illumination, red/black and the charging system indicator lamp power, black/white. 94
The clusters power lead should be a yellow lead, [cluste may have more then one yellow lead, [more then one power lead] all are protected by the 7.5A "meter" fuse, only other fused power leads to the cluster will be the illumination, red/black and the charging system indicator lamp power, black/white. 94
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Green/yellow would be low fuel indicator light supply lead, [sensor lead] it is a ground.
The clusters power lead should be a yellow lead, [cluste may have more then one yellow lead, [more then one power lead] all are protected by the 7.5A "meter" fuse, only other fused power leads to the cluster will be the illumination, red/black and the charging system indicator lamp power, black/white. 94
The clusters power lead should be a yellow lead, [cluste may have more then one yellow lead, [more then one power lead] all are protected by the 7.5A "meter" fuse, only other fused power leads to the cluster will be the illumination, red/black and the charging system indicator lamp power, black/white. 94
Thanks.

My bad the wire color was yellow with grey dots it looked like. The front of the thing I am holding is green if that helps any. My gauges were wired to that spot there (I didn't do it a friend did over a year ago.) Then I changed there location and they work fine now.
I checked all the fuses, they all have power too them, and they all are good. "Meter" is also good.
Hopefully my picture will help someone help me. lol.
Or could I just wire the above into a fuse? lol. I might try it and maybe it'll work. :x
Remove the red Ttap and make sure the yellow wire, [wire strands] have not all been sheered through, [common problem with Ttaps], once you remove the Ttap pull on each end, [where Ttap cut into wire] of the yellow lead, if it stretches all the strands are cut.
Do not use a multimeter to test fuses, it has no load, use a 12V test light, [not the LED type, the ordinary 12V bulb type] it does have a load and will "spot" a defective fuse. 94
Do not use a multimeter to test fuses, it has no load, use a 12V test light, [not the LED type, the ordinary 12V bulb type] it does have a load and will "spot" a defective fuse. 94
A multi meter would work to test fuses. Negative probe goes to ground positive goes on each side of the fuse. But of course with key on. higher amperage fuses need a large load to be tested. Since these are small a multimeter works.
Take my word for it a 12V test light is one of the best and cheapest electical test tools you can own. 94
I dont like em. I like knowing numbers rather than look at a light. It sounds like a blown fuse is the. Problem. Check all of them again. Ill look in my helms after and give u specifics where to start tracing. Ill just do it now. F it
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