<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast88std &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run synchromesh, but I've never heard of friction modified... Can anyone enlighten me?

It got rid of (most) my grinds, specially when cold. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I got a gsr tranny put in my LS and decided to put in the Synchromesh Modified Friction cuz it seemed as if the gears had no cushioning when shifting. I've been using it for over half a year and it shifts well, but now I've been thinking of moving to Honda MTF. I believe the Friction Modified is for LSD trannies and the regular one is for non LSD-equipped trannies.

So what happens when the tranny oil is too thin? What can happen to a tranny after Synchromesh goes through your bearings.

When shifting hard I've been having problems catching second gear from first, it just wont go in unless i shift slowly, could this be because of synchromesh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Hick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just use all you need. If your car shifts good on 10w-30 use that. It not try Honda MTL. If that isn't good enough try GM Synchomesh.</TD></TR></TABLE>


diddo

 

GM synchromesh/friction modified top of the line products known for performance, and it works great for me.

 

I used MTF. Didnt do ****! Feels the same.

 

Try the redline MTL.

By the way, hows the weather in auckland right now? I havent been around much lately... any rain?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try the redline MTL.

By the way, hows the weather in auckland right now? I havent been around much lately... any rain? </TD></TR></TABLE>
We had 3 straight days of cloudless blue sky now the weather is ****. Cant wait till summer.

Hmm i dont think they sell GM syncromesh here either

 

gm synchromesh (friction modified) for me. ive had it for about 300 miles so far and my car shifts way smoother. Also my 3rd gear grind isnt as bad as it used to be.. hopefully in the long run it will eventually disappear. hah

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dakidhasSOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GM synchromesh/friction modified top of the line products known for performance, and it works great for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ketone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run syncromesh because my syncros are toast, but i would not run it if my syncros were fine, I thinks its too thin</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i've heard good thing about the GM synchromesh and friction modified version. either one of these or honda MTF works great. 10W30 also works good.

 

What is the factory specified manual transmission fluid for, say a 1990 honda Civic DX 5 speed? I once read that the honda M/T's of that era used regular 10W30 motor oil, but was told I was wrong. Thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patatron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the factory specified manual transmission fluid for, say a 1990 honda Civic DX 5 speed? I once read that the honda M/T's of that era used regular 10W30 motor oil, but was told I was wrong. Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

10w30 it is

 

went from MTF to redline; just to thin, doesnt do anygood to the trany I think, so I went back to MTF, dude u can tell the diffrence, MTF is really made for our hondas!.. redline stuffs just a myth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rioninja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is an interesting read on the Synchromesh.
I'm sure some people have read this:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-pe...h.htm

Apparently,
1] It IS safe for synchros, and has low oxidation characteristics.
2] The GM stuff is actually made by pennzoil anyhow, so it doesn't matter which one you get.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a good read, I think I might risk it.

 

Normally I use Honda MTF, but recently I have been using syncromesh to get me by until I can afford the transmission rebuild.

 

I swear by Synchromesh Friction Modifed. I've been running it for nearly 65K miles now, and I'm currently on my 3rd fill (just changed it a couple months ago).

My original engine and tranny both have 212K miles on them, no grinds whatsoever.

*edit* I should add that my car has been through 2 winters now w/ the FM Synchromesh in there, shifts wonderfully at ALL temperatures, even -10 F.

 

I just use whatever synthetic 10w-30 strikes my fancy when I go to Autozone. Could be Mobil1 one time, Valvoline the next. Doesn't really matter. That's all Honda MTF is - 10w-30.

You guys are too preoccupied with tranny oil. Grinds come from mis-shifting, hard shifting, lightweight flywheels, and short shifters. Most people are guilty of at least one of those, so I doesn't matter what fluid you use - you're gonna get some grinds eventually.

My first tranny blew within 8 months of installing my 8lb prolite flywheel.

 

honda mtf is not the same as any regular or synthetic motor oil. just look at the virgin oil analysis for honda mtf and motor oil, and youll notice that the chemical make-up is different. honda mtf does not smell like motor oil, it smells like gear oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oil analysis for honda mtf and motor oil</TD></TR></TABLE>


Where can I find said analysis?

 

you should never EVER use synthetic motor oil inside a transmission. It's much too slippery for the synchros to function properly, as synchros rely on friction, and without it they will no doubt become toast sooner than later.

Honda MTF and all other manual transmission fluids have friction additives to help the synchros function as they should, without grinding.

As I mentioned, my tranny has 213K miles and does not grind at all unless I make a mistake. I have never used motor oil in it, only Honda MTF previously, and now GM Synchromesh Friction Modified.

But if you must use motor oil for whatever reason, use conventional, not synthetic.

 

honda mtf - voa

Titanium -0
Silver - 0
Copper - 0
Lead - 0
Tin - 0
Aluminum - 0
Nickel - 0
Iron - 0
Chromium - 0
Sodium - 0
Boron - 1
Silicon - 0
Water - 0
Soot - 0
Glycol - 0

Moly - 0
Magnesium - 11
Calcium - 2652
Barium - 0
Phosphorous - 1401
Zinc -1564
Visc@100C - 11.26
Tan mg/g - 0.30


conventional havoline 5w-30

all other elements are 0
Boron - 165
Moly - 80
Magnesium - 55
Calcium - 2200
Phos - 770
Zinc - 980
Vis @ 100c - 10.8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But if you must use motor oil for whatever reason</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what the manual says to use. "Honda genuine MTF or the equivalent 10w-30 motor oil." So I figure they are the same minus a few additives.

I'm guessing it's the same situation as coolant. The manual is really adamant about using Honda genuine coolant, but it doesn't really matter. Heck, you can use straight water if you wanted to. Honda just wants you to buy their stupid coolant.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's what the manual says to use. "Honda genuine MTF or the equivalent 10w-30 motor oil." So I figure they are the same minus a few additives.

I'm guessing it's the same situation as coolant. The manual is really adamant about using Honda genuine coolant, but it doesn't really matter. Heck, you can use straight water if you wanted to. Honda just wants you to buy their stupid coolant.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes but you should use conventional motor oil if you have to use motor oil, NOT synthetic, for the reasons I described above.

As for coolant, many coolants contain silciates and other things that will harm Honda cooling systems, which is why any old coolant is probably NOT good for a Honda system. Prestone Green works great, though, contains no silicates.

Straight water? No thanks I'd rather not have my radiator boiling and gettting all kinds of air in the system.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes but you should use conventional motor oil if you have to use motor oil, NOT synthetic, for the reasons I described above.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was at the dealership today picking up some injector stuff and I asked about what tranny fluid to use. The guy said I'd have no problem running the synthetic. He pretty much talked me out of buying the Honda MTF too. Whatever, I don't really care what I use. I'll blow my tranny in a few more months anyway.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for coolant, many coolants contain silciates and other things that will harm Honda cooling systems, which is why any old coolant is probably NOT good for a Honda system. Prestone Green works great, though, contains no silicates.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, granted - I guess I should have said "any old coolant that's safe for aluminum engines."

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Straight water? No thanks I'd rather not have my radiator boiling and gettting all kinds of air in the system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can run straight water for short periods of time (races) if you want. It cools better than coolant, but it does lack the important corrosion inhibitors that coolant has.

 

for now i run MOBIL1 10-30 and it runs fine but ive tried the GM syncromesh/modified and is the ****