TRANSMISSION FLUID POLL!!
Beat the **** outta my J1 Cable tranny. 8200 RPM shifts all day long in 90 degree weather. I change the tranny fluid everytime I do an oil change. Which is around 2200-2800 miles. 2.7 quarts of Honda Manuel Tranny fluid..
Never grinds. This **** really works.
Never grinds. This **** really works.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im currently using Nissan HQ Multi 75W-85 manual transmission fluid, part #999MP-MTF00P. it costs $10/quart. </TD></TR></TABLE>
In your Honda?? You're using 75 weight oil in your little FWD tranny?
In your Honda?? You're using 75 weight oil in your little FWD tranny?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Hick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In your Honda?? You're using 75 weight oil in your little FWD tranny?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes i am. the viscosity tranny fluid is tested at a lower temperature than motor oil, hence the higher viscosity number. an increase temperature will result in a decrease in viscosity.
honda mtf is a 75w-80.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
yes i am. the viscosity tranny fluid is tested at a lower temperature than motor oil, hence the higher viscosity number. an increase temperature will result in a decrease in viscosity.
honda mtf is a 75w-80.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
honda mtf is a 75w-80.
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If that were true, then why does honda reccomend a 10w30 or 10w40 oil for their manual transmissions?
honda mtf is a 75w-80.
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If that were true, then why does honda reccomend a 10w30 or 10w40 oil for their manual transmissions?
haven't you noticed there has never been a complaint about using syncromesh, wether its the friction modded or not?
still haven't grinded in a 2 months, after getting the swap and grinding 3rd for a year.
still haven't grinded in a 2 months, after getting the swap and grinding 3rd for a year.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rioninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If that were true, then why does honda reccomend a 10w30 or 10w40 oil for their manual transmissions? </TD></TR></TABLE>
did you even read my post or look at the link i posted?
according to the chart, a 30 weight motor oil is equivalent to what viscosity of gear oil?
a 90 weight gear oil is equivalent to what viscosity of motor oil?
did you even read my post or look at the link i posted?
according to the chart, a 30 weight motor oil is equivalent to what viscosity of gear oil?
a 90 weight gear oil is equivalent to what viscosity of motor oil?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you even read my post or look at the link i posted?
according to the chart, a 30 weight motor oil is equivalent to what viscosity of gear oil?
a 90 weight gear oil is equivalent to what viscosity of motor oil?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ejprimo knows his ****.
according to the chart, a 30 weight motor oil is equivalent to what viscosity of gear oil?
a 90 weight gear oil is equivalent to what viscosity of motor oil?</TD></TR></TABLE>
ejprimo knows his ****.
Gear oil is not the best for bronze metals, that's why gm created syncromesh and honda created mtf.
Gear oil is not as good for your manual as a proper manual trans fluid, then you can go to engine oil which is a little better cause some cars bearings also use some copper in the bearing designs. But once again it's not as good.
So viscosity doesn't mean much here.
Also it's not just viscosity but coefficient of friction, syncromesh is very slippery compared to gear oil.
Honda know what they are doing, there is a reason the don't reccomend gear oil.
Honda mtf or syncromesh are good stuff, and that is all i would ever consider.
Gear oil is not as good for your manual as a proper manual trans fluid, then you can go to engine oil which is a little better cause some cars bearings also use some copper in the bearing designs. But once again it's not as good.
So viscosity doesn't mean much here.
Also it's not just viscosity but coefficient of friction, syncromesh is very slippery compared to gear oil.
Honda know what they are doing, there is a reason the don't reccomend gear oil.
Honda mtf or syncromesh are good stuff, and that is all i would ever consider.
gm syncro mesh sucks..the gears wont grind for a while and it will **** your bearings and eventuily make it grind worse..use honda mtf or if your cheap a 30 w oil
Modified by D@nnY at 12:14 AM 6/26/2005
Modified by D@nnY at 12:14 AM 6/26/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gm syncro mesh sucks..the gears wont grind for a while and it will **** your bearings and eventuily make it grind worse</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds reliable
sounds reliable
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D@nnY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gm syncro mesh sucks..the gears wont grind for a while and it will **** your bearings and eventuily make it grind worse..use honda mtf or if your cheap a 30 w oil
Modified by D@nnY at 12:14 AM 6/26/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
mmmm, why is it that you say that? mess the bearings up hugh?
Once again, i have been using synchro. for a long time now. no problems shift like butter.
if you put synchro. on a tranny thats already on its way out; well its not going to fix it.
Modified by D@nnY at 12:14 AM 6/26/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>
mmmm, why is it that you say that? mess the bearings up hugh?
Once again, i have been using synchro. for a long time now. no problems shift like butter.
if you put synchro. on a tranny thats already on its way out; well its not going to fix it.
high horsepower cars will load the input shaft bearings alot more....that friction modifier slows things down for the syncro rings..it also wears bearings along with everything else...
you can use it to band aid a grinding transmission but it will eventually get alot worse with the gm stuff
if you want to try it go for it I wouldnt use it
you can use it to band aid a grinding transmission but it will eventually get alot worse with the gm stuff
if you want to try it go for it I wouldnt use it
Where do you get this from, you have no idea what you are talking about, friction modifier does create friction, for plate clutches.
The purpose of friction modifier is for gm cars with plate style rear ends and transfer cases.
Don't argue here please, if your saying friction modified does not belong in a manual honda trans, then I agree, but if others chose to add it to their trans then let them do it.
I have taken apart so many ford, chrysler and gm transfer cases and rear ends and have done so many gm fwd clutches and taken out the transmission and they do not go, manuals last forever.
Gm does not say anywhere that their manual transmissions, like the cavalier, which uses syncromesh, need friction modifier.
It's for their transfer cases that use the friction modified syncromesh. You add a bottle of friction modifier to help the plates engage properly.
Who ever said anyting about friction modified, the guy before was saying syncromesh, not all syncromesh is friction modified.
Hello, are you serious that it wears bearings, you have to be joking. Friction modifier has been around for years, with no bearing failures caused by it.
you are trying to tell me that you have more knowledge then the big 3?
The purpose of friction modifier is for gm cars with plate style rear ends and transfer cases.
Don't argue here please, if your saying friction modified does not belong in a manual honda trans, then I agree, but if others chose to add it to their trans then let them do it.
I have taken apart so many ford, chrysler and gm transfer cases and rear ends and have done so many gm fwd clutches and taken out the transmission and they do not go, manuals last forever.
Gm does not say anywhere that their manual transmissions, like the cavalier, which uses syncromesh, need friction modifier.
It's for their transfer cases that use the friction modified syncromesh. You add a bottle of friction modifier to help the plates engage properly.
Who ever said anyting about friction modified, the guy before was saying syncromesh, not all syncromesh is friction modified.
Hello, are you serious that it wears bearings, you have to be joking. Friction modifier has been around for years, with no bearing failures caused by it.
you are trying to tell me that you have more knowledge then the big 3?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
did you even read my post or look at the link i posted?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No i didnt, and i stand corrected. (and for the record, i wasnt saying you were wrong. Just asking "why")
did you even read my post or look at the link i posted?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No i didnt, and i stand corrected. (and for the record, i wasnt saying you were wrong. Just asking "why")
i used 10w 30 for a while, and grinded horribly from first to second and second to third. then i changed to gm syncromesh (non friction mod). after like 500 miles it really didnt do anything and i was like wtf, but after about 1000 miles i shift like butter. 8k rpm shifts, not a single grind. only thing i have noticed is on hotter days, say 90+ degrees it seems to make shifting a bit sloppier. that only happened about two times tho .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Motul all the way.. cheaper then KAAZ, CUsco and some other famous brand.. but perform very well still.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It sucked for me. Redline MTL worked 10x better.
It sucked for me. Redline MTL worked 10x better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It sucked for me. Redline MTL worked 10x better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hm. do you have LSD? it sure doesnt feel good with a non-LSD tranny and using those 75W140 stuff..
It sucked for me. Redline MTL worked 10x better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hm. do you have LSD? it sure doesnt feel good with a non-LSD tranny and using those 75W140 stuff..
im currently using 5w-30 syn blend from castrol and i mixed it with Lucus Oil...no problems here, but i change it consistently so IMHO, if you change it often you dont need to worry as much...
I use Redline MT90 in all of my trannys whether it be with a Quaiffe LSD in a drag car or daily driver with a stock open diff. Feels like it loosens up the tranny. No other lubricant has done that.
i was shaking a bottle of syncromesh, and noticed how thinner the viscosity is compaired to the Honda MTF. I used redline 2x all i can say is.. i dont know why i listened to some of you, but this stuff?? it stinks, (literaly); plus it thins out so quickly i had to replace my fluid after 20,000 miles. I went back to honda fluid and i think ill stick there for a while. maybe ill try the syncromesh on my toyota before putting it in my honda. hehehe.
honda MTF - honda built the damn car, they probably know what fluid works best. if your tranny is already on its way out, syncromesh will help, but there's no reason to run it in a healthy tranny.
Hmm, I used Synchromesh in my car for a while, then switched to Amsoil synthetic 10w30 because of the rumors started by a handful of people saying Synchromesh will "wear your bearings" (lol), so I changed just to be safe, and Amsoil seems to work just as well as Synchromesh so far..



