Ok.. I'm sure you've all seen my last post on my TB and skunk2 mani... but it's all together and running fantastic... EXCEPT when I get into vtec above 7k then the CEL comes on it throws the TPS code 7.

I have 2 good TPS sensors and I know because they worked before I did all this work. Now my questions are:

1: why would it only throw the code AFTER 7+k rpms.???
2: how do you check voltage? I have a voltmeter but could someone please break down the steps in simple terms for me? please!

Thanks for the help in advance I appreciate it all very much!

 

I know it has to be at .45 or something for the TPS and you connect it to the midde wire.

 

I'll test it but the mystery is why ONLY after 7+k rpms?

 

id think it would have to do with throttle position in relation to manifold vacuum, rather than rpms

maybe its putting out a very low/high voltage when your at WOT (little vacuum-high rpm)

do you get the same code when you creep up to 7K rpm, rather than WOTing it?
TPS's arnt adjustable on hondas are they?

it would be nice if you had a scan tool. on most cars the throttle plate has a percentage range. 9%(idle)-90%(wot). your probably getting a weird number at wot

just some ideas..

 

I was getting .45 or so volts at closed throttle and 5 volts at WOT which happens to be .5 too much.. hence the problem.

So, in order to adjust it all so that I could have 4.5v@WOT and .45@closed I had to bump up the "adjustable screw" that the throttle rests on. (whatever the throttle cable is connected to.. the adjustable screw that it rests on).

So there I go.. had the volts right at closed and WOT and I fired her up... now she idles AT 6000+ rpms!!!!!! HELLOOOOO I just can't win! Does that adjustment screw change the idle rate?

 

Hmm, so you are running 4.5 v @ WOT and .45 v at idle correct?

If those check good, then try adjusting the idle screw on the TB and make sure you have NO vacuum leaks.

The adjustment screw shouldn't affect idle unless it was changed drastically.

 

All the problems are solved... The BIGGEST hassle so far was dialing in or "calibrating" the TPS. THAT was a PITA. There's a screw with a spring on it that can adjust how far the butterfly is allowed to close... by adjusting that in accordance with the adjustments on the TPS I was able to achieve .38v at closed throttle and 4.8 at WOT which happened to be just enough to keep the CODES away!

If anyone has questions about TPS feel free to ask me... not that I'm a pro but I am VERY familiar with them now!

I don't know if my skunk2 IM and JG TB upgrade was worth the 4 days of blood, sweat and tears and 700+$....but I'll find out on the track on monday! Those M3's better watch out.!

 

hey rice_classic, wanted to ask you how you got rid of your CEL code 7...thats what code i am getting now after i got another throttle body and swapped my old TPS to my new TB. how do i calibrate the TPS? do i have to take the TB off?

thanks

 

you HAVE to have a voltmeter.. period.
The closed throttle position should read .38-.5 volts.... no less no more. and the full throttle or open most positions should read 4.38-4.8 volts... no higher no lower.

You need to have the key in the ON position and ground one terminal of the volt meter somewhere (I used groud wire coming off valve cover) and the other needs to touch the middle wire that goes into the plug that plugs into the tps sensor.

I didn't totally unsheeth the wire.. I just "nicked" the sheething so my positive probe could touch it. then I checked the voltages.

you got it? tps all pluged in ready to go, key on, volt meter attached to ground and positive to wire on plug and then you adjust the tps where it mounts to the TB to change the voltages to the proper specs... this is what is called "dialing in your tps".

I hope this helps.

 

volt meter attached to ground and positive to wire on plug and then you adjust the tps where it mounts to the TB to change the voltages to the proper specs... this is what is called "dialing in your tps".

I hope this helps.

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what do you mean by "adjust the tps where it mounts to the TB" how do you do this?

 

there are 2 screws that hold the tps to the TB. Those slots that the screws go in are ovaled allowing you to slightly rotate the TPS on an axis. The "adjustment" or slight rotation will alter the readings at closed throttle and WOT.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by faintwan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are 2 screws that hold the tps to the TB. Those slots that the screws go in are ovaled allowing you to slightly rotate the TPS on an axis. The "adjustment" or slight rotation will alter the readings at closed throttle and WOT.</TD></TR></TABLE>

on my tb the tps isn't held in by screws they almost look like some sort of rivet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabomb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

on my tb the tps isn't held in by screws they almost look like some sort of rivet?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're right. The tps's from the factory are "riveted" on but you can 'unscrew' the rivets. if you can take a digital photo of your dilemma I can probably be of more service.


But yes.. the rivets come out. The reason why they are riveted on is becaues the TPS is setup for that particular TB from the factory. You cannot by TPS's from the factory only the whole TB setup. The reason being, they are calibrated to each TB.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You're right. The tps's from the factory are "riveted" on but you can 'unscrew' the rivets. if you can take a digital photo of your dilemma I can probably be of more service.


But yes.. the rivets come out. The reason why they are riveted on is becaues the TPS is setup for that particular TB from the factory. You cannot by TPS's from the factory only the whole TB setup. The reason being, they are calibrated to each TB.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do the rivets come out without being destroyed? do they end up being used again?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabomb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

how do the rivets come out without being destroyed? do they end up being used again?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

either use a dremel attachment or a hacksaw. i used the latter, to make a slit on top of each screw. then you can use a flathead screwdriver to unscrew them out, and yes, they can be used again, just be sure not to make the slits too deep and dont cut into the TPS.