I have a B20B, I put some cams in it. I did not remove the belt from the tensioner. I slipped the belt off the cam gears (very hard to get back on.) There are lil holes in the cams just above the #1 cyl. those are lined up perfectly. The arrows are pointing up and are matched up perfectly pointing up. I stuck my screwdriver into the no.1 cyl. made sure that the cyl wat @ TDC. and that is how I changed my cams. How do i know if the cam timming is off from the install? Is there only one way for the cams to fit in there? Like I said those little holes in the cam match almost perfectly. Am i going to bend a valve when i fire up my b20 for the first time?

Blaze

 

If you remove the distributor I would recheck the timing... Even if you mark it you'll probably be able to get it pretty close but not exact... As for bending valves as long as you have the head set to TDC along with the bottom end you're set... crank the motor over slowly by hand once you are pretty sure you have it set and see if after 360 degrees of crank rotation your ticks on the inner side of the cam gears are facing at each other as well as the TDC mark on the crank pulley to the cover... If everything lines up then your motor is set... Why did you do that the hard way and not just undo your tensioner?? That's a lot of stress on the belt just to get it off and on.. Oh well just curious, as long as you got it on correctly then you're set... Shoot the timing after and see what it's at... You would probably be fine unless just setting your distributor anywhere for initial start up but with any motor I build I first start it with the timing fully retarded then advance it up while I shoot the timing... Hope this helps... Peace

 

Yeah I just put in a New T-Belt into my B18B1. It kinda sucked beacause when I took my "Old" (40K) T-Belt the two notches on CAM gears where pointing "sorta" not straigt like the book says. (Exh. Cam was facing a bit inward & same w/Intake. Cam ???)

Then, when I did a "TDC" to line everything up (according to specs) and slip new T-Belt on it was a PITA with one set of hands only....... Thanks to some H-T peeps came over to hold the darn CAM gears in place, while I held the Crankshaft in place "TDC". Even with the tensioner "loose" the T-Belt was snug while trying to put over the gears ??? (Go fiugure)

Here's some pics: (Reference)

CAMS (Looked funky pointing inwards a bit)



Dist. points to "TDC" on #1 Cyl.



Oil Pump "Mark" right on center with Crank Sprocket @ "TDC"

 

Holy cow Id be surprised if that ran like that. First time I did a t-belt change on my B18B i was one tooth off and the car barely made enough power to move the car in first gear. Yours looks hella advanced on the IN and retarded on the EX.


[Modified by Westrock2000, 4:03 AM 1/11/2003]

 

yeah mine cam gears are straight up, thanks for the picks! Any konw how to remove the crank pully nut w/ out turning the crank? thats another problem im having. thanks again for the pics!

Blaze

 

use an air wrench

 

We tried with a 600-Ft/lbs Impact Gun with NO LUCK !!! ....

However we found this to be easier than a Air Impact. Place car into 2nd gear and up. (Do not use 1st gear or Reverse !!!)

Then use a 1/2" Wrench with a 19mm socket of course, have a buddy apply brakes and Emerency brake as well. (with foot out of clutch of course)

Once you have taken all the wheel plastic liners an bumper stuff, get to the easy part.

Turn wheels, pointing outwards like this \----\ to driver's side.

Then jack the Front Left slightly by the "Tow Hook" (You're not jacking the car up, you're only giving yourself clearence for your hands and wrench)

...... and a few turns while your buddie applies FULL Brakes and out the pulley should come out.

Good luck !

 

see theres the problem the engine is out of the car lol

Blaze

 

Your solution would be to go and RENT a 1" Impact Gun, that'll take it out w/o problems ... LTR

 

No you will not bend valves with that "little off" ...... But your idle will be like a bucking marine boat starting up ...... Been there done that ... LOL!

 

Use a Moroso crank pulley holder tool with a 2ft breaker.

As for finding true TDC, use a piston stop with a degree wheel and a screwdriver in cylinder #1. That'll true your crankshaft to TDC #1.

Use the marking on the rear timing belt cover (the one sandwiched b/w the camgears and head) to line up the cam gears. You also have the option of degreeing in the cams to true (0,0) with a dial indicator and degree wheel, ignoring any untrue parameters in subjective visualization, cams, and camgears.

When you put the timing belt on, loop it onto the crankpulley timing belt gear first, then the tensioner and water pump. Instead of hooking the intake camgear first (like the manual says), hook it to the exhaust camgear first, then finish up on the intake cam.

Tension the belt. Tighten down the tensioner. Check belt tension....not too tight, not too loose. You shouldn't have to pry up on the tensioner to obtain proper tension...if you do, then replace the tensioner spring.

Rotate CCW once around, line it back up to TDC #1 and recheck all your TDC references. Check tension. Rotate CCW. Check it again.