twentyhurtz

ok so i have searched, many various sites, including this one.. and i'm getting alot of mixed results.. i just put a new timing belt on my jdm b18c, i put the oem p72 belt on there. perfectly aligned the cam gears and crank, put the belt on, adjusted all slack to tensioner, everything looks perfect, between the exhaust cam and crank pulley gear i can twist the belt perfectly 1/4 twish or 90 degrees, so all seems well.
i cranked the car, everything sounds normal but between the exhaust cam and crank i have what i call a vibration or fluctuation in the middle of the belt, where as the belt fluctuates about .750-1", and when the car warms up, the fluctuation ceases.. but if i rev the motor it returns..

i have let a mechanic look at it and he said that it looks too loose.. he said that the belt on his f22 in his accord is super tight, which i understand you can over tighten it. well anyways i have driven the car shifting at low rpms around town maybe 10 miles.. never shifting over 3-4k rpms, it has not jumped time, but i'm afraid to take it up to 8k in case it is too loose.
Now, i have read the proper techniques on tightening it, and either my damn tensioner spring is just too weak or i'm not doing it right. cause when i loosed the tensioner bolt, the pulley slides into the loose position and never tightens up.. so i manually pushed it up tight as i could and tightened it.. yes yes i know its ill advised to do such a thing, but that spring sucks *** and looks or appears to be in great condition.. and i may just have to replace the spring, but i guess my question amounts to this.. am i supposed to have the fluctuation or vibration in and out of the belt, keep in mind i don't mean side to side, but the belt vibrations forwards to back in relation to the car...

KWayRacing

Some deflection is acceptable..impossible to stop. Does it compare with this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI8CuFRZMic if so then that is perfectly normal. Swing by vardaman and ask a tech.

twentyhurtz

yea very comparable.. where are you from? also when i usually say the word "acura" at vardaman they have a fit.. so usually when i get parts i tell them its for a b16 2000 si so they don't flip out. yea i got the oem p72 and it has that same vibration, tommorow i'm gonna bring it by a shop to get an opinion..

night

umm the cam and left side should be tight. almost zero play. rough numbers since i go by feel.. the tension side should have perhaps a 1/4" total. 1/8" either way when giving it a moderate wiggle. there is a spec for it if you did up a helms.

when revving the belt does stretch some as the crank pulls it. if it was actually tight enough that it did not flutter some then something would be breaking. i do wish handle had managed to get an idler on that left side though. if you do have the belt shaking on the exhaust/left side it is too loose. counterclockwise... the crank pulls that side. it can be difficult though to get the slack out from between the cam gears. the valve springs are a nuisance here.
the F/single cam engines typically have more play in them than the duals. this year in feb/march i had a 94/95ish accord where the nose snapped off the cam.

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

mine used to be like the one in the video but i didnt like it so i changed the belt and put on a new tensioner and everything is tight and sturdy now so its a possibility that its the tensioner but like the dude said its normal...and yea i had it like that for about a year before i changed it, took it to 8500 all day

twentyhurtz

well i let my friend with an accord look at it, he said his is super tight, he is a mechanic and i know he has alot of experience with belts, but he was telling me that it needed to have belt removed, the exhaust came turned 1 tooth, belt back on and then turn the cam back to that original position, making the belt super tight then tensioning it, but that belt is very very strong and i don't see how its possible to manually stretch that belt 1 whole tooth distance within 15" area or so. and that sounds like a broken belt waiting to happen..

KWayRacing

Accords are not twin cam unless we are in JDM land or they are made that way. I have no ideas what method he is talking about. If your engine is in time this would put it out. I install every twin cam belt (honda) just like this. I Time the engine to TDC, install cam lock tool( punches, screwdrivers, whatever works for you I have the actual lock made by camlok. Loosen the tensioner bolt, press tensioner down, snug tensioner bolt. Install new belt. Loosen tensioner bolt, pull tensioner upsnug tensioner bolt, remove lock. install crank bolt with air. use 19 wrench to rotate engine counter clockwise 3 CAMSHAFT teeth, loosen the tensioner bolt, push up on the tensioner, tighten tensioner bolt. Put back together. I have done hundreds of t belt installs just like this and have always had success. I'm in Jacktown by the way.

twentyhurtz

ah.. i see.. well tommorow i'm gonna see about tightening it up a little more and hope it holds, so far i been cruising around the burg all day, i have gotten it up to 4 grand once, but i'm still weary about bringing da bitch up to 8 grand... but yea mine looks very similiar to that..

KWayRacing

What did you do with your old gsr motor? Need a core to build while mine still runs.LMK really just the block matters.

Si_chRis

Remember that when the engine warms up, things expand so that might explain the play disappearing during idle when the engine is warm. Mines the same like in that video. At idle, when warm, I don't see play but I do when I rev my engine.

grjr

I've got a related question, my B18B1 timing belt seemed like it was too loose. The belt had about 12 mm of up/down slack in between the cam gears while the motor was at TDC. I tried tightening it and got about 7 mm up/down slack between the cam gears while @ TDC now. Do you guys think that is still too loose? Here's a short vid of what I initially was dealing with:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3rDKhLUtBg