Hey, I have a problem going on. I have been trying to get my gsr dyno tuned to get my vafc set for a month, the closest place is 1.5 hours away. Finally get in there today, drive down in the rain. My first run for a 95 gsr with i/h/e , vafc, skunk2 im, and a b&m fpr, untuned, was 125 hp , they checked my timing, and you couldnt even see the timing marks. It had previously been set to 18 btdc, when we moved the distributor all the way, you could start to see the marks, and the numbers went up to like 140, and its still wayyyy off. So we decided that I must have skipped a tooth on the timing belt. How hard would you guys say it is to change a timing belt on a b18c1 yourself? I have the manual, and im pretty handy, but I have neever tried it. Any hints? advice? how much $$$ is just the belt? By the way, after driving 1.5 hours there and 1.5 back, and STILL not getting my VAFC tuned, they still charged me the $85 for the 2 dyno runs it took to establich that

cliffs notes:
Skipped a tooth on the timing belt, cost me $85 and 5 hours to figure it out, should I change it myself, or take it to my friendly honda dealer.

 

If the belt itself is still ok, you can just reuse tbelt and tension it properly. You might want to find out why it jumped a tooth though... maybe someone didnt change the belt properly? Just remove the valve cover and upper timing belt cover. Set the crank to tdc then loosen the tensioner and pull the belt off the cams. Put the corrected belt on the corrected timing and turn counter clockwise at the crank ~3 teeth mark to get rid of any slack on the exhaust side of the belt. then tighten the tensioner. rotate the crank a couple times and inspect the tension and timing marks. There should be roughly ~1" or less of deflection midpoint of the crank and exhaust camgear when you press firmly with your thumb.

 

how do you know TDC?
and where are the timing marks??? on the cam pulleys?

 

aling the two arrows on the cam gears (so they look cross eyed) and line up the crank gear so it's notch is in alignment w/ the block arrow while the #1 cyl is at the top of its travel (tdc). while not moving all your arrows get your belt on and tighten your tensioner. if you have cam gears make sure they say "0" first b4 you do all what I have mentioned. after tightening is done rotate engine a few times to make sure things are in still in alginment. if all good, giver go!

 

ya you've prob skipped a couple by the sounds of it.... not a hard job at all, just double check your arrows and notches b4 you bolt everything back up. but kinda time consuming if you have all the AC and pwr st in the way.

 

Since the cams arent timed correctly you will want to set the crank to tdc. there is an alightment eyesight thing on the timing belt cover. line that up with the white mark on the crankshaft pulley and you will be good to go.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ryan C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you know TDC?
and where are the timing marks??? on the cam pulleys?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Well, I have got a timing belt, valve cover gasket kit, and a water pump on order. It will be in on saturday hopefully (i figured, might as well replace the water pump while im at it). $120 for the parts. Anybody know of a good how to article? I have the manual, and it looks like a very straightforward procedure. I get the **** with the marks and all. Hopefully it come out well. I wish I wlived in a more populated area so someone could stop by, drink a beer and help out. Ahhh well. Wish me luck, im a lil nervouse about it. Im most worried about it being so close to the fender to get wrenches in.

 

If you just want it to line up correctly, there's no reason to replace the belt. Just remove the cam cover, middle timing cover, turn the crank so the mark lines up to TDC, loosen the tensioner, and turn the cams so that they line up where they're supposed to at TDC and put the belt back on.

RJ

 

I would say you will also need this to do the timing belt job. I tried w/o and no can do. I have a lude so I'm unsur if this is the one you need,this was however the one for me...wish you luck. http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SP-60100.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you just want it to line up correctly, there's no reason to replace the belt. Just remove the cam cover, middle timing cover, turn the crank so the mark lines up to TDC, loosen the tensioner, and turn the cams so that they line up where they're supposed to at TDC and put the belt back on.

RJ</TD></TR></TABLE>

They tuning shop told me that if it skipped a tooth hard, it might have damaged it, and a belt is only $25, so why not just swap it out while its open, ya know? Kinda the same deal with the water pump, just playing it safe. It has 118k miles, i was told they have been changed, but you can never be sure, and its VERY bad if it goes.

And also, I know I need that tool, im gonna try to borrow one. Thanks for the luck, im starting to look forward to it, doing your own work is very gratifying.

 

Got my timing belt in successfully. Thanks for all the help guys. I didnt end up replacing the water pump, it looked new. It took forver, started at 10 am and finished at 8:30 pm, but i had a lot of trouble with the crank pulley bolt, and i took breaks for lunh and dinner, and a few runs to the parts store. So all in all it went well except for a lil blood. Pics to come. to DIY's!!