Well today I got my car back from the shop and the mechanic could not get the idle down to the stock setting of around 700 rpms. The car is a 95 GSR.

I do have a JG Throttle Body, which I just purchased. I didn't have it on the car before the rebuild.

Well pretty much the car idles at around 1800 rpms all the time. I believe it is the cold air idle portion of the throttle body. (if one exsists on this one). I am not really sure on the function of this but I can only guess that when the car is cold, it allows more air around the throttle plate, and as the coolant reaches normal temperature, the valve closes letting in less air.

Is there a way to check, fix, or remove this function. I live in the midwest so I will want this to function properly when cold weather hits.

any help would be appreciated.

thanks in advance





[Modified by Shft@9GSR, 6:56 PM 4/11/2002]

 

perhaps the throttle plate is open too much.

 

Does the TB have an idle adjustment screw lock stock ones do?

 

Ok here we go. the Idle screw on the top of the TB is completely closed. when I adjust the screw out (open) the idle goes up. When all the way closed, the idle is 1800rpm's.

I will be leaving work to go home and check the TPS sensor output to verify if it within the range of Votages.

There are no codes being thrown at all, so the AIC is assumed to be OK.

My first thought is that the TPS is just out of adjustment.

Oh yeah, if I rev the motor and let off, the idle dives to about 750rpm's then recovers to 1800rpms and stays constant.

 

Any leaks round the area???? Vaccum lines look good??

I am guessing the IACV though. Try unplugging it and see how the car idles.

 

close the throttle plate more.
there is a throttle stop.
you dont want the screw to be all the way in.

 

Ok idle problem is still there. I have measured the TPS and checked the throttle plate to make sure it is closed. TPS measures .46V at closed throttle plate, and 4.5V at WOT.

All vacuum lines are attached. I do find it kind of odd that my adjustable FPR cannot be adjusted down with the car running. I can set static pressure, (cycling the key) but with the car running, it remains around 45psi.

This is where it gets funny. If i pull off the induction tube, and place my hand over the Throttle body opening, the car doesn't die, the idle drops down a couple 100 rpms but nothing.

I have pulled the AIC connector and the idle surges but doesn't go down any. I have pulled off the TB and checked the Thermal valve and i thought it was leaking but i checked and reinstalled and now idle is a little higher.

I talked to the mechanic who did the work, and I stated that maybe there was a vacuum leak. Of coarse he said that he doubted it. He is blaming it on the throttle body, because It's aftermarket. But then again the whole motor is pretty much aftermarket. I think personally that the intake manifold gasket is not sealing correctly.

I just don't understand why all of a sudden with a new motor, the car won't idle correctly.

 

TPS voltage seems good...

The symptom does not associate with a TPS problem. It may be that the "idle" screw for the throttlebody might not have been set right from the factory. I hate to suggest this but it shouldnt be to hard to remove the new TB and put the original back on to see if the problem goes away... if it does, then you will have DEFINATELY narrowed it down to the throttle body... IF it's still there, you can rule the TB out...

Good luck...

issues like this can suck sometimes for troubleshooting...

 

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. If you put your hand over the throttle body and the engine does not die, then it is getting air from somewhere. The most likely culprit is the intake manifold gasket. The PCV hose and vacuum hose for the brake booster could also be your problem, but they are less likely. Pinch the PCV hose and the brake booster hose one at a time.If the idle returns to normal with either one of them pinched, then you have found your problem. Try spraying carb. cleaner or brake cleaner around the intake manifold gasket. A minor change in idle speed is normal, but if you get a large surge or drop, then your intake is probably leaking.Good luck.

 

Well I found the problem!!!!!!!!!!!

now I'm not one of those people who thinks I know everything there is to know about cars or even honda's. I do know that this problem kicked my *** as well as the tech at Acura. He continuously told me the problem was in my throttle body. I kept thinking no it's a vacuum leak from some where else.

Well after hours of work and swearing, I found the problem.

It would be an honest mistake coming from a guy working on his car. But not from a certified Acura Mechanic.

The problem was an incorrect TB gasket. I believe they were using a Type R gasket or maybe an LS gasket if different. I know the difference in the old gasket and the new gasket were that the old gasket had holes for the Fast Idle Valve.

The new gasket looked like it was for a TB for a car without the FIV. Go figure!!! A tech put the wrong gasket on the car. Which caused all the damn problems.

Now comes the question of... How much unfiltered air and other SH*% got sucked into my brand new VERY EXPENSIVE motor. That Acura said they wouldn't warranty?

Well I have a feeling that something will need to be done due to negligence on their part.

Any ideas on what I should do??? I'm thinking parts for cost or some very cheap labor. I mean the car runs great now but I drove it for three days (due to daily driver car) with high idle. Come to find out I was sucking up lots of SH*%.

Well that's all. Thanks to everyone who tried to help.

 

I'd definitely pursue some kind compensation...

Glad you got to the bottom of the problem, tho...