okay... i tightened it but my car still rev'd up and down after warming up.... why's that?

 

I got a question. I have an odb1 b16 and I put a spoon throttle body on it. The spoon throttle body is a bored out type r tb, so its odb2. This means it dosent have a fitv. Ever since I put it on my car has the flucuating idle once it warms up. All of the vacum lines are good, pvc valves good, bolts are tight, iac is good, throttle cable is good, coolants been aired out. Anyone have ideas? I thought since the new tb didnt have a fitv it wouldnt affect my idle, because I have heard of some people bypassing it and fixing their problems. Other than that I have a sk2 im.

 

still havin idle problems. once the car is warmed up it still has suction on the fitv. so i block it but the car only dies instead of returnin to reg idle. ne ideas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SouthernCrane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had RPM fluctuation about 1-2 minutes after a cold start, then once the car warmed it would be fine. plugged the bottom hole in the TB and felt only a little suction, plugged both and the car nearly died. I tightened the screw in the FITV and the car idles like a champ now.

Thanks........and BUMP</TD></TR></TABLE>

same here. still have suction at the hole in the TB but it idles perfectly so I'm not going to mess w/ it. I searched "surging idle integra" on google and led me directly to this thread.

perfect write up. Thanks alot.

 

heres the deal, i blocked the fitv hole in the thorttle body as told in the first post and there is little air suction when the car is warmed up. is it suppose to do that or is there not suppose to be any suction at all. also it makes a hissing sound from that hole cause when i cover it theres no more hiss. and does anyone know if the idle is suppose to go up if you step on the breaks and let go. cause mines goes up about 400-500 rpm when i step on the breaks and release. when i turn on the ac there also seems to be a problem the ac fan goes on and off causing my idle to surge when the ac is on. thanks for the help and great write up. d16z6 95 civic si stock.

 

same thing as an Idle Air Controler? IAC

 

bump anyone know the answer to my problems?

 

morning bump anyone?

 

wish i saw this post earlier in the year, had this problem,
just by chance i took my tb off and noticed a slight rattle when i shook it, popped it open and the white ring had come completely unscrewed.

nice write up.

 

can the ivac be serviced?

 

0bd2 Iacv/TB
Brake cleaned Iacv
Carb sprayed all vac lines/gaskets/sensors
Throttle cable is loose
Bled cooling system
Not throwing codes

Car will be fine till warm up than, idle up and down constantly between 0RPM (sometimes kill lights go on) and 1200 rpmish
Car dies during its crazy idle surge fest ocasionally as well.

what is normal tps voltage? .5-4.5/5ish WOT?
boo to wild idle problems

o... and when i bought the car the crazy ricer had a small metal cylinder stuffed in the PCV line... I replaced it with a "working" line w/o small metal blocker deally...

Could open line on Oil seperator box cause this problem? I have only one line going to my oil seperator box on the back of my OBDO b18a block...

 

"honda_power69", thank you so much! I had the bouncing idle on cold starts, annoying as hell. Did the fix to the fast idle and problem solved!

If you're ever in Chicago - dinner or lunch is on me!

flyingv786@yahoo.com

 

http://www.ef-honda.com/ben/Badidle.php

 

"JDMB20TDA", that's a great write up too!

However, I disagree with having the idle screw adjustment placed as step 3.5.

I'm in no way a mechanic, however, I've researched the hell out of these issues and it seems like that should be the 2nd to the LAST step (before trying another ECU).

The idle screw is supposed to be factory set, and never supposed to be touched. Usually if adjusting it does help the problem, you may be covering up the actual source of the problem, which is why it should be done almost last. Again, I'm in no way a mechanic - that's just what I gathered from the a LOT of research into this issue.

Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong, its for the greater good (of the Honda community)...


flyingv

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyingv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm in no way a mechanic, however, I've researched the hell out of these issues and it seems like that should be the 2nd to the LAST step (before trying another ECU).

The idle screw is supposed to be factory set, and never supposed to be touched. Usually if adjusting it does help the problem, you may be covering up the actual source of the problem, which is why it should be done almost last.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<FONT SIZE="3">SPOT ON.</FONT>

 

I agree, adjusting that just makes it next to immpossbile to get it back to normal.

 

Hi i have a 1992 honda accord 266000 miles. problem is when started car will stall as idle is kicking down ( 1 st try every day) after first try once car idles at 1000 rpms i can take off and car runs excellent all day till next day. i changed plugs, plug wires, pcv, air filter, distrubter cap and rotor, i also cleaned fitv, and seated plastic ring. started car it still stalls on first start during kick down this annoys me cause after it stalls 2-5 minutes later it starts and runs fine and strats without stalling all day long till next morning it chokes again. I AM CONFUSED any help please?

 

how much are you suppose to tight the FITV in to make it right? i heard some people said tight it all the way and 3 turn back out so be at oem spec. true or not true?

 

I edited my orginal post because I'm a nub and didnt see the fast idle when i first read this post. Found it and fixed the problem (minus one of the bolts that holds the plate on breaking off) in about 15min... the whole bloody plastic screw was off!!!! now if only i could return the stuipd IACV I bought from honda I would be one happy person!

Thanks for the write up amazing! if your ever in Seattle food and drinks on me!


Modified by icemyst01 at 1:47 AM 11/29/2007

 

my lude has the same problem, at first it just started out as a fluctuation from 1k-1.5k rpm's, and would only happen once and a while. over time it's got worse-especially last week. Now it does either one of three things...it will either fluctuate from 1k-1.5/1.5-2k rpms, stay at 1.5k rpm as an idle (a normal h22 is supposed to idle at 750-850rpm, right?), or it will "pulsate" only like 100rpms at like 1.3rpm.

today I got a new IACV, which costed like $220 (thank God for the "working-for-Acura-so-therefore-you-get-the-honda-employee-discount" on honda parts, saved me 50 bucks.) I'm still royally pissed, because as I drove out of the lot, the damn fluctuation bullshit started again. On top of that, I took it to emissions to get that done since the check eng. light was still off-but once I got 3rd in line, it came back on. ain't that a bitch!

So I went back to where I work, Frankel Acura, to try to see what was up...I scanned the engine, the DTC said it was "Idle control system failure" : Possiblities:
-IACV sticky--&gt; can't be, I just replaced it 2 hrs before
-Fast Idle Thermo Valve sticky
-Throttle valve sticky
-Air leakage

I just did what this how-to said to, and it didn't fix n e thing.

I'm going to order a new one, I think with the discount it'll only be like 30 bucks, so I'm cool w/ that. If that doesnt work, I'll be running out of possibilities, because I doubt it is air leakage.

My question here is what the hell do u think the HDS ment by "Throttle valve sticky?"

I cant find any "throttle valve" name on any honda parts website. Do you think its the Throttle Position sensor (thats what i suspect), or something else?

This **** is really starting to **** me off...I'm getting to the point where I'm willing to spend whatever it takes to shut this thing the expletive up.

Any pointers or comments would help, thanks.

 

I swapped an H22 recently and has the same problem - idles mostly fine, hunting a bit, even after warm up, but when you put a load on the engine, even slightly, is fluctuates 800-1500rpm.

If you don't press the gas when you start it and just let the car idle there for 10-15 mins, does it idle at say around 950-1000 rpm, and just slowly move between 700-1100 rpm or in between that, like it is hunting? If so, you've got a vacuum leak.

I ended up tightening down everything on the intake manifold about 1/4 to 1/3 turn - the bolts and nuts on the throttle body, the nuts holding the upper plenum to the IAB plate and lower manifold, the EGR valve nuts, the IACV bolts, the nuts on the intake manifold - moving inner to outer on the flange - all of it. Everything turned a little.

Now my idle is perfect. If I bring it up to 6000rpm while driving in gear and let off the gas and put it in neutral, it drop to 1,000 rpm and doesn't go below until i come to dead stop, then it drops perfectly to 750rpm.

All your vacuum leaks occur at the intake manifold and are a nut buster to find. Tighten it all, if slightly beyond torque spec - just as little twist on your wrist, not wrestle the ratchet kind!!! See what happens. Honestly? I think most of my problem was at the throttle body because as I tightened down on it, the idle got better.

 

Great How-To!!!

 

On my '91 Accord the FITV was located on the top of the intake manifold. All I had to do was unscrew 2 philips screws and tighten the white thing (shown in pic with cover off). It took me 45 minutes to find the FITV, and two minutes to actually do work.

 

I found this thread. So I let me h22 warm up until it started the idle. I then took off the intake and put my finger over the top hole (iacv) of the throttle body and it stopped surging!! so thats good...

now I have replaced the IACV about 3 times with spare ones I have. So I just want to plug up that hole on the throttle body.

what did you guys use to block the hole? duct tape? jbweld?

let me know thanks.

 

i had a bad idle problem

searched for MONTHS

turned out the TIMING was 1 TOOTH off