My car has a surging idle when it gets warmed up. Its a B16 in a CRX. It has an AEBS intake manifold and Im not sure if the TB is stock or not. It doesnt look like the pics of the first post. I took my intake off and put my finger over the hole while it was surging and it has lots of suciton but it does not stop the surging. It idles fine when its not warmed up except a little high to warm it up but then surges from about 700 to 1200. I dont know where my FITV is. On the bottom of my TB it has two coolant lines running like the one in the first post but looks nothing like it and I dont see any bolts to take it off.

 

on the third gen, the FITV is behind the throttle body, so all we have to do is remove the lid, tightendown the black screw ring,and vye-ola, smooth idle. thanks guys.

 

I was just wondering if its the same if it the idle surge is constant? and not only when its warming up... my idle starts off fine but really high when i 1st turn on my car in the morning about 3k then when it warms up it idles like that all day long... I mean you only notice it when im at a stop light or not driving how ever but thanks for this FAQ Hopefully it helps

 

Bump somewhat fixed my idle... still does it on warm up but i only took off the plate..... so ill be taling off the whole valve soon to tighten it better

 

how would u clean the iacv?

 

yes very good info

 

 

Man I wish I found this write up a month ago! After replacing a distributor and IAT I was sure the problem would go away. I bypassed it with the old Coke can method since I never hooked up the water lines during the swap and it is idling like a champ. Great write up!THANKS!

 

hey i was wondering what makes it loose, or even completely backed out? and did this to my motor and it ran good for a little bit. but now its doing it again.

 

i did everything that was mention in this forum and my car is still doing the same thing....help someone!

 

this is good info

 

i'm afraid of starting to fix my fitv without asking how to bleed the coolant.. could you teach me how to bleed it? it would be appreciated very much! thanks!

 

DAmn....I hate to be posting this but I'm out of ideas...I need help!!!

My idle surges once the car starts to warm up. It doesn't surge for several minutes, then all of a sudden it starts.

Now here's where it gets wierd, if I turn my lights on, it idles perfect!

I've replaced and adjsuted the FITV so its not that. I've adjusted TPS but I'll check again to make sure.

It leads me to believe its the IACV. BUT, I've replaced it and cleaned it out to no avail.

HELP

 

thanks!!!...car starts up like a dream, she is sooooo quiet now


hopefully this will save me @ the pump too; (i got 160miles on a full tank, because it got real bad that the car would start up @ 3k rpm then drop when finally warm [about 10mins])

edit:
would you mind if i linked this up to a local car forum?

 

I wouldn't mind at all....I put up this info to help everyone, so feel free to share it with anyone you want. Also, keep this article bumped since I've tried to get it stickied forever now, and STILL see thousands of "idle problem" posts all the time. If this article helps you, please bump

 

bump for those who need it

 

Bump again for those in need...

 

bump again for those in need

 

another bump for tech'ers with idle problems

 

does anyone have the pictures saved? I wanted to do that this weekend but the pics are down.

 

I'm currently online with Imagestation Live Chat help service to get the pics back...if nothing else I'm having them send them to me so I can rehost them somewhere else. They should be back up within the hour.

 

Ok, the start of this thread is very good and informative and it saved me a trip to a repair shop and made the car drivable, however, as others have indicated it is NOT the beat all end all answer for everyone!

My car had the surging idle @ 2000rpm until the car was warm which was taking 3 miles and longer even at 45degrees outside. Then when it was nearly warm it would surge at 1000-1500 and when warm it would run normally.

I took the advice on this site and did the air hole covering test in the throttle bottle AFTER about a week of checking hoses and every other thing I could think of. When warm the lower air hole had no suction which would then mean it is not the FITV. I then covered BOTH holes and it ran normally meaning no vacuum leaks.

Per directions, if it's not the FITV it must be the IACV. Now let me say that I've done the all the struts on this car myself and done the upper and lower sway bars after I had put the struts back on, but this IACV was a real pain in the *** and I wouldn't want to wish it on anybody...........at least I cleaned if first and checked it BEFORE going out and wasting $150 on the IACV when it would NOT have solved the problem.

In fact, after cleaning it, it made the problem WORSE! The cold idle would now surge at 2500 untill warm and then when warm it would hold at 2000rpm or if you hit the gas it would drop to 1000 then surge to 1500 for 4 cycles and then hold again at 2000rpm. Hell, before I did the IACV at least it would run normally when warm, but now I have a royal mess. NOw I'm sure that some of you are thinking that I should 'bleed the coolant system' and I'll just say that's a joke cause if you EVER pull off one of those hoses going to the IACV or FITV when the car is warm and running and you see the volume going through those hoses you will realize such a suggestion is a joke and the only AIR BUBBLES one is going to get stuck with that much volume is via cavitation................so don't waste your time on THAT!

Then I thought of what happened when I covered both holes..........it RAN NORMALLY, so I went back and covered only the TOP hole and it ran normally. I see there is a sensor on the outside of the TB next to the top hole and I really have no idea of what it is and maybe it's the TPS, but I don't care as it doesn't matter because from what I can tell that sensor cannot be removed. Since I couldn't figure out how to remove it I disconnected the wire too it which did nothing.

At this point since NOTHING like this is explained and others continue to have problems like this and they might also waste a huge amount of time on IACV and FITV when all they really need to to is BLOCK THAT TOP HOLE. This I did with some 'industrial tape' in order to test my solution and it worked fine and in fact it runs the way it should and it warms up to operating temperature in 2.5 miles @25F! No surging no sticking high idle, problem solved.

Being that it was only 25F outside today I wasn't going back under the hood to look for a more permanent solution to plugging that top hole and I'm thinking I'll fill it with hot glue from a glue gun or with alumalloy..............that is unless somebody has a better solution or how to remove that sensor if that is in fact that problem. Even if the sensor IS the problem, I see no real reason to replace it if it's over $25 and will just plug up that top hole and enjoy my car running correctly for FREE!

 

/and lest I forget, the shuddering at low idle when warm is gone now, too.

 

pictures are back up now, and I've saved them all to my PC for backups...hope this can help everyone once again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chemicalanarchy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that is unless somebody has a better solution or how to remove that sensor if that is in fact that problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you file a lil line in what looks like rivets holding the sensor in place, you can use a flat head screwdriver and simply unscrew them... the screws the factory uses,the top breaks off when it gets to a certain torq setting and it leaves what looks like rivets... again, file a line like your makeing a regular screw, then simply unscrew them...