<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chemicalanarchy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Backwoods troubleshooting</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm glad that your car is running - but don't suggest to people to plug up holes in their throttle body. It surely didn't need to be done from the factory, so there must be some other reason causing your idle issues.

Did you disconnect the IACV to see what the base idle speed is?

 

if ur car surges after it warms up its not the FITV........my buddys crx would idle fine untill it warmed up....once warm it would purge. we replaced the pcv valve and tightened down the idle adjustment screw and problem solved

 

i tightend the fitv, cleaned the iacv, whats next, map sensor-tps..? still surges, cold and warm... im clueless now...

 

Great post, thanx just saved me time and money

 

In response to: 4Door Life's post...

I need to know exactly what engine you're running first off (b16a SiR2 OBD1-conversion for example).

Some random things you could try before the "buy & try" method is start with the easiest and least expensive ways first...never make a diagnosis more complicated than it needs to be .

Check the tension on your throttle cable, and make absolutely certain that the throttle plate in the throttlebody is completely closed when there is 0% throttle. Basically, if you can watch the throttle cable where it connects to the throttle body while a friend actually pulls outward (toward the rear of the vehicle) on the gas pedal, there should be no movement in the throttle spring mechanism. If however when he pulls the pedal you notice that the throttle mechanism on the throttle body moves and actually closes all the way then you have too much tension on the throttle cable, thus not allowing the throttle plate to fully close and essentially creating a vacuum leak. This is a free and simple fix just by loosening the tension on the throttle cable a little bit until it is tight, but still able to close the throttle plate completely.

Next, make SURE there are no vacuum leaks ANYWHERE connected to the engine...most aftermarket IM's have plenty of "extra" vacuum ports, that if arent plugged properly are just allowing air to bypass the TB completely.

Also, if you're running some kind of chipped ECU or reprogrammable ECU chip in your factory ECU (such as CROME or UBERDATA) then try temporarily reflashing back to the factory basemaps on everything to see if this helps with the idle...if it fixes it, you'll know the surge problems lies somewhere within the settings of your current aftermarket EEPROM flash.

I like helping others here, and as always, the more info you guys can give us on your engine setup, the easier it is for us to diagnose. Let me know if any of these help, if not, lets get a very detailed writeup of your engine and parts so we can further help you to get this problem resolved.

Once again, any questions or comments be sure to let us know, and if you problem gets fixed, do a quick post for us letting us know what worked for you and your application. This will allow me (in the future) to do a more comprehensive edit to this thread to help others with the same symptoms and cover different engines.

And as always, If this thread has helped you in anyway (to all readers) please stop by and bump every once and again to further help our other fellow HT-ers, I authored this writeup to help our comunity with free information for a reason.

Any questions/comments/criticisms can be sent to me via email at: honda_power69@yahoo.com I'm very prompt at returning emails, although I can't guarantee a response at all thru HT's PM service, as I dont check it often at all.

 

hey i was just wondering if this would b the prob would it also cause a stumble on light acceleration? i have a 92 lude and it seems to get a idle surge occasionally from about 800 to 2000 rev. and when i put it into drive it will like misfire or seems to about every 5 to 10 secs. and under real light accel. she will bog real bad until the revs make it past 2200 to 2500 or so?????

 

i am running a h23a1 motor auto trans. i have already tried fuel filter, plugs, wires, throttle body was replaced about 6mo. ago also distributor at the same time. tried ignition coil. main fuel relay. i have no check engine light on so i cant diagnose the prob. that way i even just tried disconnecting a sensor. ie. the water temp sensor when i replaced that in trying to find some prob and the light come on so its not burnt. i ran a compression check and came up fine across all cyl. im stumped these iacv and fitv sensor seem easy enough to check and wont cost nothin so maybe its worth the hour or so checkin em. any other thoughts would b a great help thanx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by honda_power69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In response to: 4Door Life's post...

I need to know exactly what engine you're running first off (b16a SiR2 OBD1-conversion for example).

Some random things you could try before the "buy & try" method is start with the easiest and least expensive ways first...never make a diagnosis more complicated than it needs to be .

Check the tension on your throttle cable, and make absolutely certain that the throttle plate in the throttlebody is completely closed when there is 0% throttle. Basically, if you can watch the throttle cable where it connects to the throttle body while a friend actually pulls outward (toward the rear of the vehicle) on the gas pedal, there should be no movement in the throttle spring mechanism. If however when he pulls the pedal you notice that the throttle mechanism on the throttle body moves and actually closes all the way then you have too much tension on the throttle cable, thus not allowing the throttle plate to fully close and essentially creating a vacuum leak. This is a free and simple fix just by loosening the tension on the throttle cable a little bit until it is tight, but still able to close the throttle plate completely.

Next, make SURE there are no vacuum leaks ANYWHERE connected to the engine...most aftermarket IM's have plenty of "extra" vacuum ports, that if arent plugged properly are just allowing air to bypass the TB completely.

Also, if you're running some kind of chipped ECU or reprogrammable ECU chip in your factory ECU (such as CROME or UBERDATA) then try temporarily reflashing back to the factory basemaps on everything to see if this helps with the idle...if it fixes it, you'll know the surge problems lies somewhere within the settings of your current aftermarket EEPROM flash.

I like helping others here, and as always, the more info you guys can give us on your engine setup, the easier it is for us to diagnose. Let me know if any of these help, if not, lets get a very detailed writeup of your engine and parts so we can further help you to get this problem resolved.

Once again, any questions or comments be sure to let us know, and if you problem gets fixed, do a quick post for us letting us know what worked for you and your application. This will allow me (in the future) to do a more comprehensive edit to this thread to help others with the same symptoms and cover different engines.

And as always, If this thread has helped you in anyway (to all readers) please stop by and bump every once and again to further help our other fellow HT-ers, I authored this writeup to help our comunity with free information for a reason.

Any questions/comments/criticisms can be sent to me via email at: honda_power69@yahoo.com I'm very prompt at returning emails, although I can't guarantee a response at all thru HT's PM service, as I dont check it often at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool, thank you... i found the problem...

i did what you sugested and it turned out to be the vacum hose going to the pvc valve... it was pulled off just enough to cause the surging problem i had...

just for reference, i have a B18a1 swap in my car... thank you, Brian

 

thanks i'm going to check it now but wat if its doing it only when it warms up and its now the iac valve? could it still be the fast idle valve?

 

Short answer, yes it could still be the FITV. With my own car, I had a partially sticking thermostat, causing the engine to never fully warm up...this combined with the FITV hold-down being loose caused my car to surge pretty much all the time, even when the engine was "warm". So don't rule out the fast idle thermo yet, because just like in my case, it could be a small combination of things causing one problem. I don't have much time to elaborate or reply at the moment, but I'll reply again as soon as I'm able.

 

hey there i tried the fixes u recommended and it seems to have calmed down the surging almost completely eliminated it. however i still have a stumble under accel. till i get the motor reved to about 2200rpms or so. also i have noticed that i am still getting vacuum at the hole on the bottom of the throttle body when it warms up could this mean the fitv needs replaced it was awfully loose but i tightened it up snugly. (got about 2 1/2 to 3 turns!) ???????????????????????????????? Thanx in advance guys

 

Bump, im glad i seen this post.
Here is my problem, when comming to a stop and stomp on the clutch pedal, my idle rises about 1300rpm.
What can be the cause of this problem?

 

this could honestly be a lot of things...without a more detailed explanation I couldn't begin to guess. It would have to be something concerning putting load on the engine by engaging the clutch, but as to why it would idle up like that I don't really know. I'm guessing its a b16 by your name, but give us a short rundown of your chassis/engine/parts combination and a more detailed description of the problem and I might be able to help.

 

OK GUYS I DID THIS WITH MY CAR AND THE LILHOLE STILL HAVE A LIL BIT OF SUCTION ,HOW CAN I KNOW WHERE IS LEAKING 4M .THANKS

 

the rundown is in my sig
honda civic ek4 b16a engine


thanks

 

ok guys i went to the junk yard and i bought a fitv i put it on my car and the idle still the same in the morning when it idles it wont pass 1000 and it takes a long time to warme up wat could it be ,maybe a bad thermostat or my aicv ........can u guys help

 

?????????????nobody

 

bump. My brother has this problem with his ride. I will be trying to diagnose this weekend with your guidance.

 

hey guys, i have a surging problem as well. I've got a 94 hatch with a b18a1, eagle rods wisco pistons, crower valve train w/ stock cams blox man, no fitv, b17 TB, Tuning with crome, GT35 turbo, custom turbo man, etc. I've tried everything(i think) replaced and cleaned iac checked for vac leaks, I'm stumped. It surges from about 800 to 1500 and when you give it partial throttle it stumbles like its misfiring but its not, when you get under boost it runs flawlessly. When you come to a stop the idle drops to like 800 before surging and sometimes it stalls. Any help would be great

 

I had RPM fluctuation about 1-2 minutes after a cold start, then once the car warmed it would be fine. plugged the bottom hole in the TB and felt only a little suction, plugged both and the car nearly died. I tightened the screw in the FITV and the car idles like a champ now.

Thanks........and BUMP

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jimjur &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys, i have a surging problem as well. I've got a 94 hatch with a b18a1, eagle rods wisco pistons, crower valve train w/ stock cams blox man, no fitv, b17 TB, Tuning with crome, GT35 turbo, custom turbo man, etc. I've tried everything(i think) replaced and cleaned iac checked for vac leaks, I'm stumped. It surges from about 800 to 1500 and when you give it partial throttle it stumbles like its misfiring but its not, when you get under boost it runs flawlessly. When you come to a stop the idle drops to like 800 before surging and sometimes it stalls. Any help would be great</TD></TR></TABLE>

To me the stumbling sounds almost like a fluke in the ECU fuel/timing map more than vacuum related. I don't know if you've tuned the engine yourself, whether it was done with a wideband O2 or on a dyno...but I'd check to make sure you're not getting a shitload of fuel in the low range there and bogging the motor down.

As for the surging, more than likely vacuum...have you checked the FITV and made sure theres no leakes around the intake manifold itself? With the amount of work you have done to your engine I'd be more likely to lean towards something like that causing the leak, something that might not be so obvious, rather than a worn vacuum hose or something of that nature. Get a can of carb cleaner and spray ALL the way around the intake manifold gasket where it meets the head while the car is idling and listen for it to surge up or rev. Let me know how the search goes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SouthernCrane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had RPM fluctuation about 1-2 minutes after a cold start, then once the car warmed it would be fine. plugged the bottom hole in the TB and felt only a little suction, plugged both and the car nearly died. I tightened the screw in the FITV and the car idles like a champ now.

Thanks........and BUMP</TD></TR></TABLE>

Glad the write-up could be of help to another person and thanks for the bump

 

Ima do this

 

b18c1 head w/a port n polish/3angle valve job/adjustment & victor x mani.

its goin up n down between 15-1800.

searched for vac leaks n nothing.

cleaned out iacv n still threw codes.

cel is 1 & 14.

ive disconnected the iacv sensor n nothing happened? ive read that its suppose to lower the rpms but didnt. im goin to replace it in a few days but wondering if nebody else has suggestions? ive blocked the fitv hole on the tb while its runnin n it dies. i havent checked into the fitv but will when i change out the iacv. need HELP been w/o my car since a month ago.

 

SCORE! its not surgin nemore but its sputterin.