one thing I found that help me when I installed my inserts was to raise the idle of the car.
my car use to idle at 750 800 rpm now its closer to 900rpm.
I did it with my s300 hondata but you can do it manually aswell.

 

yea that's one solution, but what's your idle fuel consumption now?

according to torque (an obd2 android app) when my d16y7 is warm and idling around 650-700 rpm, my fuel consumption gets down to 0.17 gallons per hour

 

some feedback:

had my stock mounts urethane filled for about 2 weeks now.

1 idle vibration is great almost like stock
2 launching is ok also almost like stock. still have some engine bounce...
3 really bad vibration at 1100-1200rpm just in that spot and then it goes away once idle drops to normal.

overall its a mixed feeling.
it didn't really fix the problem of engine bounce and added more vibration

 

Cough cough hardrace.

 

Why do they look identical to oem mounts?

 

I'm starting to suspect it has more to do with unbalanced motor.
I didn't check the weights of anything when rebuilding just put it together with new pistons etc

when i had a jdm itr swap that thing was buzzing not vibrating at idle

 

oem honda parts are VERY close tolerances. Many machine shops consider stock honda parts to be high performance due to their durability, longevity, balance and close tolerances. If for example rods from multiple diff engines were used I could see that maybe being an issue, or perhaps oem and aftermarket replacement being mixed as well. I know every set of oem rods and pistons I have weighed have been close enough that when I am running within stock rev limit I do not need to balance anything. Even the DNJ brand oem replacement pistons I had were within a gram or two and have been doing fine going 1500 rpm past stock rev limit (6200 vs 7700), though once i put in an insert in the front mount the vibration was more noticeable, and then adding a cam, even with an increased idle the vibration in the dash was again increased. Inline 4 engines have first and second order vibrations and will NEVER be as smooth as an i6 or V engine. second order vibrations are what cause most of the issues on Honda engine, which is why the F and H series run balance shafts and all k series run them.

 

Op, they look like oem mounts because they are to resemble stock, its a hardened rubber alot stronger than stock. With it being rubber, it can do its of job of negating vibrations, unlike urethane they are not being able to flex

 

a lot of aftermarket pistons are not even close to within a gram or two

I ve seen variations of 4-5 grams from my sets that I got.

you also have to add to the equation pistons rods crank pulley and flywheel.

this motor at idle vibrates like a mother*** compared to jdm itr.

but anyway . it seems like the hardrace mounts do exactly same as urethane filled stock mounts.
I don't want to spend another 400 bucks to find out its same as I got now

 

readjusted the mounts again in correct sequence and had to put spacers on the driver torque mount.
for some reason the center was off by half an inch from where it supposed to be so I had to cut it slightly to leave some space so its not sitting on the bottom

I wiggled and pulled the motor around but still couldn't get it to line up
pass side torque mount is in center


but after getting them in correct sequence and fixing torque mount and putting some foam around few panels its a lot quieter than it was before.
but still the torque flex is there

even filled these are much softer than solid urethane mounts from hasport that I had in.

those were horrible vibration even after correct sequence.
it would be cool if they make softer ones for daily driver sometime in near future

 

are you sure you have the 62a street urethane?

on a side note 62 is the lowest durometer you can go on the urethane without it breaking down prematurely and causing failure

if you want to send your mounts back we can replace the urethane with 62a just to make sure

 

it is already 62a they re about 3 years old and well broken in

I like them for driving because the motor don't bounce but for daily they are still too loud at low rpm and while taking off

I mistakenly ordered race mounts fro ebay and took them out 20 minutes later I thought my damn dash gonna fall off. but race mounts crack vtec at every light cus it felt solid
what if you make a closed cell foam urethane to make it softer and not break apart?
with really small bubbles
some memory foam mounts would be cool the engine would wake up happy and drive like a type-r every time

 

The torque mounts and rear do most of the work holding the engine still. The driver side and trans mounts will transmit the most vibration.

You could run a hasport/innovative/avid rear with the inline pro torque mounts, new oem side mounts. You would get the best mix of support with dampening.