Spun Rod Bearing Possibly
B18b, unknown mileage, 16K highway miles (2hrs/day commuting~80-90mph) miles since new headgasket/top end refreshing.
My engine has been burning a quart of oil for the last 2-3 years roughly every 600 miles. I would put a quart in almost every 2 weeks. The oil light would flicker on decel, braking, and heavy/hard turns.
Last night, some ******* almost knocked over cones on I-77 followed by sudden braking and almost cause a pile-up, and at the moment I nearly floored my brakes and I went from about 70mph to about 35mph and when I suddenly did that my oil light flicked on real quick and went off and I had put a quart of Castrol 5w-30 in before my commute. Immediately my car started running rough like a misfire. No CELs, or smoke coming out the exhaust.
I have a video I'll try to post sometime tonight of it idling. But does anyone think this could be a slight spun rod bearing???? I know what a rod knock sounds like but I barely even hear a knock. I still have ample enough power, but the engine is stumbling through the entire range.
I'm about to check compression and spark plugs.
My engine has been burning a quart of oil for the last 2-3 years roughly every 600 miles. I would put a quart in almost every 2 weeks. The oil light would flicker on decel, braking, and heavy/hard turns.
Last night, some ******* almost knocked over cones on I-77 followed by sudden braking and almost cause a pile-up, and at the moment I nearly floored my brakes and I went from about 70mph to about 35mph and when I suddenly did that my oil light flicked on real quick and went off and I had put a quart of Castrol 5w-30 in before my commute. Immediately my car started running rough like a misfire. No CELs, or smoke coming out the exhaust.
I have a video I'll try to post sometime tonight of it idling. But does anyone think this could be a slight spun rod bearing???? I know what a rod knock sounds like but I barely even hear a knock. I still have ample enough power, but the engine is stumbling through the entire range.
I'm about to check compression and spark plugs.
ALRIGHT!! Well after reading my plugs and doing a dry(WOT)compression check>>>220-85-225-220, Sems like Cylinder #2 took a poop on me....ok so I lied about still having a lil power lol. Its still running for now, looks like its time for a hardcore rebuild!!! LS/VTEC coming soon!!
ALRIGHT!! Well after reading my plugs and doing a dry(WOT)compression check>>>220-85-225-220, Sems like Cylinder #2 took a poop on me....ok so I lied about still having a lil power lol. Its still running for now, looks like its time for a hardcore rebuild!!! LS/VTEC coming soon!!
Just a little food for thought, it could be a Valve on the number 2 cylinder a bit tight. It would be coincidental I know but it couldn't hurt to check. Years ago my younger brother called me up and said he just started noticing his D16Z6 missing a bit at idle and wasn't running as good as before. I ran a simple Compression test and #3 was way lower than the other 3 which were all fine. I pulled the Valve cover and had a Valve on that cylinder that was a few Thousandths to tight. I adjusted it to spec and it was fine, luckily I caught it before it burnt the valve.
And for the record, I-77 SUCKS. I commute between Charlotte, NC and Chester, SC on 77 almost daily with my work truck and it just sucks. One second you will be doing 75..the next hitting your brakes for all there worth because ONE dumb *** can't drive and backed the whole damn freeway up.
You know what Matt, I'm gonna go and the valve adjustments. I pray that it fixes it because now that you mentioned it, the car idled rough and misfired when I changed the head gasket and had to seat the valve seals. So I when and checked the specs and put them respectively to their settings (IN/EX) and the misfiring and rough idle stop and ran like a charm. Haven't check the clearances since January when I did the head job. Thanks!! I'll let you know how it turns out, I won't loose anything but 20 minutes of time! I pray that it works!
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