Skunk2 stage 3 cams...anyone using these.?? on the street?? i know people like the stage 2's but is stage 3's too much for the street>???
10k

 

Too big for the street, way to much valve overlap, you will lose low end and put lots of strain on the valvetrain not to mention you will have to replace the valve springs for sure. Try to stay around 12mm of lift dont go higher.

 

I don't entirely agree. They are agressive cams to be sure, and not for everyone. You would definately have to replace your springs if you value your engine, but they are streetable, depending on your definition of the term.

 

k thanks guys! i was just wondering because i was thinking of get stage 2's but my friends said "why not get the stage 3's???" so i just had too ask..Thanks! Peace!

 

those cams will not even work without major compression at least 12:1

 

Yes they do include a good size drop in dynamic compression. You have to buy parts as part of a long term plan however. If you're looking to build a wicked all motor monster then agressive bump sticks are almost a requirement. You won't gain much with just the cams w/o high compression, but as a part of the puzzle they're not a bad move.

 

all iknow is the vtec cam lobe is the biggest of the bunch. actually 1mm larger in the lobe then the TODA spec c's ... and toda reccomends 12:1... i spoke with dave hsu at SEMA awhile back he told me that he wouldnt even want them in his street car. they put stg2 in a stock itr and made almost 20whp with that and cam tunnig on there dyno with and eprom programmer.. very impressive for a chip and cams..

 

The idle with the stage 3s is crazy, your car will probably shut off every time you stop. IF you call up skunk2 and ask them they will tell you they recommend to change your springs and value after about 8 races so I don't thing is a good idea to use them on a dally driver.


[Modified by JDMSI, 5:31 PM 1/13/2003]


[Modified by JDMSI, 5:32 PM 1/13/2003]

 

You can definetly daily drive on those cams with the right setup. I have a couple friends driving on them without any problems. Keep in mind the head needs to be built properly and you must have high compression.

 

Raising the idle speed slightly and leaning the A/F ratio at idle will help with the idle considerably.

 

My car idles fine! but it is set at about 1000 rpm the car liked the 1000rpm idle on the stage 1's to

 

I run skunk stage 3 cams on the streets daily driven........no problems at all almost a year now. The car idles normal ............


[Modified by AllMotorMadness, 8:39 AM 1/15/2003]

 

Holy cow, 20whp on a stock ITR with camgear and fuel tuning? Aren't the st2's very similar to Jun 3's?

 

Jun3s are:

INTAKE lift - 12.0 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.5 mm, duration - 265.3 @ 1mm

Skunk2 Stg2s are:

INTAKE lift- 12.3 mm, duration 266 @ 1mm
EXHAUST lift - 11.8 mm, duration 262 @ 1mm

 

It's not all about Lift and Overlap...

You gotta pay attention to @ what lift the duration was quoted at.

Also, Ramp Rates play a big roll in cam choice. The Jun 3 has a much more aggressive ramp rate than the Skunk Stage 2. This results in my valve 'snap'.

Suprdave

 

Yes. They were all measured@1mm as indicated. I have seen the ramp rates of the Jun 3s, they are very aggressive, haven't seen the Skunk2s up close.

 

The stage 3's are fine as long as you get the right parts to complement them, I have plenty of friends wit skunk stg3's and they are all daily driver no problems, if you want a badass dailydriver then there are some sacrifices that ur just gonna have to make, smooth idle?, *** an idle If anyone wants to get the JUN set up I can get it for a fairly good price out the door, hit me up on AIM screen name is Kekoatyper or email me at roadracer@tokyo.com and I have to check but I think I can get skunk aswell.