Skunk2 cams not performing
I have fitted stage 1 skunk2 cams into my b16a2 del sol. The idle is terrible and when the vtec kicks in it slows my car. the cam gears are set to 0 degrees. I have taken it to my local tuner but he was no help. can anyone help as i dont know what to try next. i have played with my cam timing but nothing helps. thanks jrubenis@aol.com
yeah i have had it tuned by my local tuner but he isn't to good. but he is the only one around me with a rolling road. The timing is spot on and so is the ignition. A friend though it may have been the valve clearances but i have checked them and they are fine.
I got piston 1 on tdc on the compression stoke and then put the cam gears facing up in the correct position before putting belt on ifd thats what u mean. when i got the cams it was literally 2 cams and 2 cam gears no instructions or anything
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You always adjust the valve clearance when installing new cams, make sure you slide the feeler guage between the lobe and the rocker, not between the valve and the locknut
here's the answer........
1. your b16 isn't making enough compression to squeeze the extra air that u r getting from the cams
2. skunk2 S1 cams specs. are about 11.5 lift & 250 duration on the vtec lobe thats why your car feels slow at vtec, also the small lobes are also made a little bigger to which is the reason why your car idles bad
3. additionally fuel needs to be added to compensate for the extra air example: stock air/fuel ratio is 14.7:1 which is the perfect ratio that all dyno tuners want to reach for at normal throttle opening, 12.4:1 or 12.7:1 is the ratio that dyno tuners wants to reach at wide open throttle. for your case, your looking at about 15 to 16.0:1 ratio which is on the lean side, at this point there isn't enough fuel but too much air so your car will feel slower assuming your in vtec
4. Recommendation: type-r cams 11.3 lift & 242 duration biggest cams u can go for a stock internal motor or gsr cams work great w/ b16, thinner head gasket to bump up the compression mugen headgasket 0.3 increase in compression for 140 dino eggs, mill the head for more compression, or chip the ecu for more fuel, or if u want put CTR piston in it there about 12.0:1 compression compared to 10.5:1 compression on b16
i know becuz i have skunk2 S2 in my ls/vtec w/ 12.0:1 compression, mugen chipped p28 ecu and ran against a evo RS and barely beat it while shifting at every 9k untuned also. later, i decided to rebuild the whole motor and drop in a b16 for the time being and ran w/ the skunk2 cam, same thing like you not enough compression to squeeze the the air/fuel mixture so my car felt slower
main key ingredient: compression and fuel for the big daddy cams
PS my 0.02 cent
1. your b16 isn't making enough compression to squeeze the extra air that u r getting from the cams
2. skunk2 S1 cams specs. are about 11.5 lift & 250 duration on the vtec lobe thats why your car feels slow at vtec, also the small lobes are also made a little bigger to which is the reason why your car idles bad
3. additionally fuel needs to be added to compensate for the extra air example: stock air/fuel ratio is 14.7:1 which is the perfect ratio that all dyno tuners want to reach for at normal throttle opening, 12.4:1 or 12.7:1 is the ratio that dyno tuners wants to reach at wide open throttle. for your case, your looking at about 15 to 16.0:1 ratio which is on the lean side, at this point there isn't enough fuel but too much air so your car will feel slower assuming your in vtec
4. Recommendation: type-r cams 11.3 lift & 242 duration biggest cams u can go for a stock internal motor or gsr cams work great w/ b16, thinner head gasket to bump up the compression mugen headgasket 0.3 increase in compression for 140 dino eggs, mill the head for more compression, or chip the ecu for more fuel, or if u want put CTR piston in it there about 12.0:1 compression compared to 10.5:1 compression on b16
i know becuz i have skunk2 S2 in my ls/vtec w/ 12.0:1 compression, mugen chipped p28 ecu and ran against a evo RS and barely beat it while shifting at every 9k untuned also. later, i decided to rebuild the whole motor and drop in a b16 for the time being and ran w/ the skunk2 cam, same thing like you not enough compression to squeeze the the air/fuel mixture so my car felt slower
main key ingredient: compression and fuel for the big daddy cams
PS my 0.02 cent
Cheers for the info mate. if i get a fuel pressure regulator which fits on the fuel rail i could increase the fuel pressure, do u think that would sort out my pronlem or do u recommend getting the head skimmed to increase compression aswell. i work as an engineer so access to a milling machine is ok. Any idea how much i need to skim off?? I have spoke to others who have fitted stage 1 sk2 cams and everything was fine on their stock b16. any more info is much appreicated. thanks. james uk.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by foxone64 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
main key ingredient: compression and fuel for the big daddy cams
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt consider these big daddy cams. They are basically the same as CTR/ITR cams with a little more duration. I personally run them and I have not had any issues with idle or loss of power. I would double check your timing.
main key ingredient: compression and fuel for the big daddy cams
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldnt consider these big daddy cams. They are basically the same as CTR/ITR cams with a little more duration. I personally run them and I have not had any issues with idle or loss of power. I would double check your timing.
My brother's old LS/VTEC setup used the Skunk2 Stage 1's with no problem on stock injectors but bumped up fuel pressure and a ecu program. Even with the cam gears settings @ 0,0 they made 191/143 on the dyno with very slight tuning.
You might wanna double check timing, pull it apart and re-align everything, leave cam gear settings to 0,0, bump up fpr to about 47-49 @ idle (static)
On a bone stock B16, you will probably not notice much difference. We ran CTR/ITR setup which is about the same as the Stage 1's and didnt notice a signifcant amount of gain but then again this was like 6 yrs ago
You might wanna double check timing, pull it apart and re-align everything, leave cam gear settings to 0,0, bump up fpr to about 47-49 @ idle (static)
On a bone stock B16, you will probably not notice much difference. We ran CTR/ITR setup which is about the same as the Stage 1's and didnt notice a signifcant amount of gain but then again this was like 6 yrs ago
instead of milling you can get a mugen headgasket that will raise the compression by 0.3
(example 10.8 - 11.1) but if you want to mill than no more then 0.01 also others that have fitted the Skunk2 s1 cam should have np because the s1 are the beginners cams but a little more agressive then the CTR/ITR cams. as for the FPR factory fuel pressure is at 35-47psi so set it to about 45psi and try it. also check your cam timing. make sure the crank pulley line up w/ the tick on the cover and the cam gears pointing up
also, eg6 sir it was a figure of speech when I said big daddy cams and of course I know the Skunk2 s1 is the same like the CTR/ITR but w/ a little more duration.
(example 10.8 - 11.1) but if you want to mill than no more then 0.01 also others that have fitted the Skunk2 s1 cam should have np because the s1 are the beginners cams but a little more agressive then the CTR/ITR cams. as for the FPR factory fuel pressure is at 35-47psi so set it to about 45psi and try it. also check your cam timing. make sure the crank pulley line up w/ the tick on the cover and the cam gears pointing up
also, eg6 sir it was a figure of speech when I said big daddy cams and of course I know the Skunk2 s1 is the same like the CTR/ITR but w/ a little more duration.
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