Hey, when I dropped my tranny recently I tore a ball joint boot (LCA) and also a tie rod boot (I know you don't need to remove the tie rods but I was dum). I ordered the replacment boots, but will I also need to order the metal band or can I reuse the old one? Also what kind of grease should I buy to fill it up. Any tips on installation?

TIA

 

Cmon, I've never done this before.... help a brother out.

 

CV and or wheel bearing grease usually is just fine, get it at any automotive parts store. I use some wierd red stuff that is really thick.

 

You don't need a new band as long as you don't screw up the old one. Be carefull when you take it off. As for installing it, Honda has a tool to install the clip that is shaped like a conical bell which slips over the boot. you just slide the clip over it untill it drops into the groove, really usefull but like all honda tools its hella expensive. I screw up my dust boots practically every time i remove the ball joint so i've gotten pretty familiar with replacing them.

CV joint grease will work just fine.

Mike

Mike

 

sorry to bump an old post but I tore my ball joint boot and I will be replacing the ball joint instead of the boot.

any tips or pointers?

 

i dont think you should replace the boot only for the ball joint.

i think you should replace the whole ball joint.

you can never be too safe with a ball joint.

here is a thread with someone using a tool and also some other advice :
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=750303

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=337893

i also saw someone reccomending a trick with a craftsman ratchet but i can not find it.

im sure someone has it still..

 

it went pretty much like this but had pics and more detailed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AgentJam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, do this...with the springs/shock still on the assembly jack up from either the rotor or bottom of the lower control arm so that the spring is fully compressed and the knuckle is high up in the wheel well (as far as you can get it). Then fit either a piece of pipe or a socket wrench in between the lower control arm and knuckle right next to the ball joint. Then lower the jack and that gap where you put the pipe or socket wrench handle should close up and be very tight. This will put a lot of pressure on that area and not allow the knuckle to come fully down and the spring to fully decompress. Then put a cheater pipe or something ovet the socket wrench, something like 3 feet long so you can get some good leverage. Then just pry that sucker and it should pop right out.
My description may leave you confused but if you jack up the knuckle and look at the space between the LCA and knucle you'll see what i mean.

I did this less than 2 weeks ago took 45 seconds good luck!!

Vince
</TD></TR></TABLE>

another from dave-ror
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave-ror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
ok, follow these instructions to the letter.

We-Todd-Did-Racing LBJ method:
Required Tools:
6 pack of beer (your choice of brand), cans preferred.
Hydraulic Jack
1/2" drive Craftsman rachet
2 40oz malt beverage bottles (or a set of jack stands)

1. Jack up the car and put it on the 40oz malt beverage bottles (or jack stands).
2. that was a lot of work, enjoy a cold brew.
3. Take off the wheel.
4. remove cotter pin.
5. remove castle nut
6. time for another brew.
7. place jack saddle under hub area of rotor (not on the lugs)
8. jack up the hub assembly enough to fit the 1/2" drive rachet next to the ball joint with the "wide" side of the handle vertical (ie, rotated 90 degrees)
9. hold rachet in place (unless it is close enough to stay by itelf, in that case, drink a beer and continue)
10. release jack pressure (ie, lower it quickly)
11. drink another beer.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

taken from:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=446576

 

I wish I saw these techniques yesterday before noon

the pickle fork damaged my boots and now I have to replace the whole ball joint.

from those threads, its seems like the autozone press tool is my best bet with my limited resources.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TEN621 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
from those threads, its seems like the autozone press tool is my best bet with my limited resources.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes but you have to put the nut back on before you use the pitman tool or else its very easy to mushroom the head of the stud, then its a PITA to rethread.

The WTDR works great, unless you have an aftermarket/short travel suspension.

 

I'm lazy and called Honda and they told me that it would be $50 to replace the boot on my lower ball joint. Not too bad, I don't think.

 

Man this thread is older than dirt.

WTDR method with pictures. May torn balljoint boots never happen again to anybody on this board.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859

I've twisted up threads before on the balljoint even with the nut in place using a puller. It wasn't bad enough to not reuse the balljoint and castle nut, but it makes it harder to thread the nut without the threads binding/snagging. That ends up making it harder to tighten the nut back up without the balljoint spinning.

You can easily replace just the balljoint boot and reuse the circlip, as long as you take care not to deform the circlip. I work it off and on using a small screwdriver.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The WTDR works great, unless you have an aftermarket/short travel suspension.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In this case, you have to disconnect the shock fork so the LCA can drop without the strut assy limiting the drop height.