im rebuilding my head in about a week and this is what im doin so far...skunk 2 stage 2 cams ($640) skunk2 valve springs($212) skunk 2 ti retainers($127), small port and polish job. am i forgeting anything??? and also this is my daily driver which im just building cuz i bent valves by over reving it, so what woudl be a disadvantave of goin with a more intense p&p job than a light one?? also im just using stock valves... this is ok right?? and should i just replace the ones i bent or should i just do all of em.. moneys kinda tight so i cant afford many extras so could i could get away with just reusing the good valves ???

 

Have the head hot tanked. Also dont port anything without a flowbench to check your work.

 

#1 all new gaskets when putting this back togtehr i know for a fact that itll cost you about 150 or so replacing every gasket there is on the top end, because i did this all of 2 weeks ago, make sure you get a good valve job which will cost you about 150 bucks but you probably already knew that since you have new valves...if you wanted to you could replace you valve guides but its a lot of work in labor and is slighty costly and if you old valves didnt leak oil id just leave them the same. Also make sure the person porting your head knows what they are doing, a friend of mine had his ported by a guy and he lost power because he removed so much material in the wrong areas it cuase him to bog the motor...so my recomnedations are to leave it the same or fork up some hefty cash and have it done by the best in the business PORTFLOW! and you never want to reuse valve if you replacing 1 replace them all unless you plan on stickin w/ all stock valves....all in all my rebuild w/o any valvetrain parts cost me about $350 which included a hot tanking presssure testing the cylinder and a valve job, if i were you id recomend replacing all you valve while you have the chance and hold on the cams...because if your going w/ skunk2's theyre going to need to be tuned and by the sounds of it you wont have the $$$, so get some new valves (type r's will do just fine) all around the new springs and retainers and get the head cleaned up w/ all new gaskets and such...then when you save up some extra chance pick up the cams and cam gears and tunig devices (fpr and vpac) and get it tuned!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jerseybrandon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have the head hot tanked. Also dont port anything without a flowbench to check your work. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what is a flowbech???

 

[QUOTE=drumking15 and you never want to reuse valve if you replacing 1 replace them all unless you plan on stickin w/ all stock valves
.....because if your going w/ skunk2's theyre going to need to be tuned and by the sounds of it you wont have the $$$, so get some new valves (type r's will do just fine) all around the new springs and retainers and get the head cleaned up w/ all new gaskets and such...then when you save up some extra chance pick up the cams and cam gears and tunig devices (fpr and vpac) and get it tuned![/QUOTE]

what if i stay with stock valves could i use the stock valves i have in there now and get however many i need???

if i get the skunk2 cams coudl i wait a month or so before i tune it??

 

A flowbench is a piece of equipment used to measure air flow in through cylinder heads. It can measure intake or exhaust and can even measure flow through intake runners and carbs/tb's if set up correctly. And it measures air flow at different valve lift heights, so technically flowbench results should dictate what cams you install. Make sure whomever is doing the port work on your head has access to one, it is an expensive item but a reputable shop doing headwork should have one.

 

Dont touch the valve guides dude. Honda valve guides last. Get new seals, 35 bux from the dealer. Buy new valves, theres not much of a price difference between OEM and aftermarket, so thats up to you. 3 angle cut the seats (not really that important, but only takes on hour). Id say get a moderate polish, unless whoever is doing it is trustworthy and knows theyre stuff. Valve springs are easy, get that done while the head is off. As for a head gasket set, around here i can buy a Fel-pro set for 120 bux. Not Honda, but Fel-pro is a good company, they make some of Hondas OEM head gaskets. good luck

 

Check out my cylinder head, just rebuilt it myself. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=528369

 

is that 35 bux for one and then u need 16??? and would i need new seals if they only have 30k on them??

 

Ok ton answer you?'s....about the valve seals they are like 60 or 70 cents a peice x 16 = a little over 11 bucks....?'s about reusing the valves is that you are going to have to pay to have the new valves seated...every time you change a valve it needs a new seat or you risk damaging the the valve again and the valve seat and also u will lose power if you valkves dont seat properly....personnaly id redo all the valve at once becaue your going to have tpo pay to have the head dissassembled if you dont take out your rocker arms and stuff youself, and it wont be more cost effective to do all 16 valve seats while redoing the few youve bent....yes you could leave it the same, but i would risk burning a valve or even worse a seat in my mind its worth the extra 150-200 to get agood valve job...whether you go with skunk2 valves or stock itr valves is soley your choice. skunk2 has so high compression valves for a little pricer but for a little cheaper if you going n/a that is you can pick up some civic si valves which add i believe .1-.2 pts of compression to a gsr motor....now about the cams, yes you could get them tuned in a month but with weak valve sealing around the valve and a high lift cam odds are you'll burn the valve....you could drive it untuned but it would idle really bad, i havent seen skunk2 stg 2 idle but ive seen some other high lift cams idle at stock settings and needless to say its not pretty...my reocmnedations if you still want to purchase the cmas is to keep your stock cam in until you can have it tuned then install them into the motor and go get them tuned, dont drive w/ them untuned...but while you head is apart i swear replace every seal it will svae you time downt the road, it seems pricey at first but believe me when that cam seal, or vtec seal leaks, and you have to pull the cams out again and again youll get very frustrated....so once again i recomend you hold on the cams and put the money towards a set oif new valves and the extra hundred bucks or so for the new gaskets. This would leave you shy of your cams about 300 enuff to save up for and then save some more for tuning etc...

 

im gettin a top end gasket set. and a head gasket set this includes the seals how much they usually go for im gettin it tomorrow and have no idea of the price

 

ttt

 

the top end gasket kit included stuff you dont need...and doesnt include tall th gasket you will need!!!! buy them individually youll be better off!!!! for ex it included a valve cover gasket which is useless, reuse you old one w/ gasket maker (aka honda bond) and put the extra change saved to oil supply o rings, cam seals, a distrubutor oring, and a vtec o ring...im not sure what you kit includes but most dont included the little orings and what not...so in my opinion your better off buying them indivdually plus buy buying a large kit you dont really save any $.