pics of rethreading of block
thanks to whoever linked me here a coupla weeks ago to the info about using the timesert kit to rethread the block. As you can see from the below pics, I thought is was a pretty good idea
and btw the mentioned carchitect(SN on G2IC) is a good friend of mine and a tenured acura tech.
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthrea...threadid=37667 in case you werent following my dilemma- the previous thread pretty much explains it- theres also a link down that thread a bit to even previous info on it so there ya go

waiting for Carchitect I decided to reloom the wiring harnesses the best I could- wasnt nearly as brittle now handling the wires and looks 10X better IMO- heres one more quickly
and here is where the fun fun stuff begins
this is a very scary thing to see done- we took a caliper and measured the amount needed to be drilled out- if you look carefully you will see a red stripe around the drill bit we marked to tell us where to stop drilling- although from what carchitect (Joe) said it was obvious where to stop just by feeling the bit, we wanted to take ever precaution available
and that was the end of the drilling- now comes the rethreading:
heres the tap that was provided in the timesert kit- not really sure why the member from honda-tech had to weld on the socket- i think he used a larger size socket than he was supposed to in a six point when a 12 point worked perfectly- oh well- put electrical tape on the bit to make sure it was as snug as possible and it wouldnt come loose while in the thread holes
WD-40 sprayed every time so that the aluminum would thread perfectly and the tap wouldnt tear through the metal
.......
[Modified by bhive9024, 8:29 PM 10/22/2002]
[Modified by bhive9024, 8:30 PM 10/22/2002]
[Modified by bhive9024, 8:30 PM 10/22/2002]
[Modified by bhive9024, 8:35 PM 10/22/2002]
and btw the mentioned carchitect(SN on G2IC) is a good friend of mine and a tenured acura tech.http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthrea...threadid=37667 in case you werent following my dilemma- the previous thread pretty much explains it- theres also a link down that thread a bit to even previous info on it so there ya go

waiting for Carchitect I decided to reloom the wiring harnesses the best I could- wasnt nearly as brittle now handling the wires and looks 10X better IMO- heres one more quickly
and here is where the fun fun stuff begins
this is a very scary thing to see done- we took a caliper and measured the amount needed to be drilled out- if you look carefully you will see a red stripe around the drill bit we marked to tell us where to stop drilling- although from what carchitect (Joe) said it was obvious where to stop just by feeling the bit, we wanted to take ever precaution available
and that was the end of the drilling- now comes the rethreading:
heres the tap that was provided in the timesert kit- not really sure why the member from honda-tech had to weld on the socket- i think he used a larger size socket than he was supposed to in a six point when a 12 point worked perfectly- oh well- put electrical tape on the bit to make sure it was as snug as possible and it wouldnt come loose while in the thread holes
WD-40 sprayed every time so that the aluminum would thread perfectly and the tap wouldnt tear through the metal
.......
[Modified by bhive9024, 8:29 PM 10/22/2002]
[Modified by bhive9024, 8:30 PM 10/22/2002]
[Modified by bhive9024, 8:30 PM 10/22/2002]
[Modified by bhive9024, 8:35 PM 10/22/2002]
althought the depth of the hole where the thread is could not be photographed properly, the tap threaded the top of the hole as well so you can see how precise the cuts are- and need to be for that matter.
we cleaned the block off- compressed air works wonders- and ready to put the threads and inserts in
for those like myself who had trouble visualizing what the inserts were by just a description, this might clear it up for you. heres another
all the studs threaded into the block perfectly- the machining of the inserts was obviously flawless

before installing the new headgasket we mated the old headgasket to the head to see where it failed

anywhere where the headgasket had come apart by the layers or bowed out away from the surface we applied hondabond to the new headgasket

and here's a quick pic of the oil line we blocked about a year and a half ago for the ls/vtec conversion

......
the head went on just fine- a little more of a pain since the new threads are a bit taller- but no worries- here Joe aka carchitect is putting the washers down before the studs are torqued down
torquing the studs down was flawless- started at 15lb/ft and went in 10-15 lb/ft incriments until we got to 70- and every stud moved the same distance when we increased the torque- which was a very good sign that all was well.
distributor back on valve adjustment done- not that necessary though cuz only four valves were off and not by much- after 25k miles not too shabby
did my best to get a pic of the studs
finishing up here- new valve cover gasket and spark plug seals installed as well as a few new coolant hoses. New dist cap and rotor installed after the theives for some dumbarse reason decided to cut it open.
so its all done- everything went smooth
and the final test:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?i...7401694&idx=17
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!
the car smoked for a good half hour out of the exhaust- just billowing out white smoke. We at first thought cracked head- AAAAGGHH- but drove it around up and down the neighborhood and soon went away- we then changed the oil so if any metal shavings got in the oil pan from cutting the threads they were soon removed- all is well and she will be tearing up the streets once again-- for now obd1 conversion and new tranny are next up to bat- she will be parked outside my apartment- took out the steering wheel and drivers seat among other things so I think her days of theft are over(knock on wood)

[Modified by bhive9024, 8:45 PM 10/22/2002]
the battery was stone dead- the theives left the lights on throughout the night- i couldnt believe that my yellow top went dead after just one night with the lights on but oh well. Jumped it off my S10 and the battery is fine now.
But yes i do agree normally its taboo. either way i made sure nothing connected the terminals.
nice eye for detail btw
But yes i do agree normally its taboo. either way i made sure nothing connected the terminals.
nice eye for detail btw
You will have to register on the site to see, but it is the same steps I posted here at HT.
http://www.collectiveracing.net/cgi-...ct=ST;f=11;t=8
[Modified by 2point6, 10:59 PM 10/22/2002]
http://www.collectiveracing.net/cgi-...ct=ST;f=11;t=8
[Modified by 2point6, 10:59 PM 10/22/2002]
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NICE.
note on pic #2. NEVER put a wrench near both terminals of a battery... that is BIG trouble waiting to happen.
note on pic #2. NEVER put a wrench near both terminals of a battery... that is BIG trouble waiting to happen.
I once got the 'shock of my life' when i shorted out the battery against my neuspeed shock bar
. Welded the damn wrench to the bar! Nice tech article BTW. Pictures are worth 1000 words.
Mike
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=222925
yeah 2point6 that was the thread that was linked to a qustion i asked about this process that helped out a lot! Thanks dood!!
yeah 2point6 that was the thread that was linked to a qustion i asked about this process that helped out a lot! Thanks dood!!
looks good dude.........hope everything goes well......
a tip for anyone else trying this procedure...........get some duct tape and run a few strips across the deck of the block covering every last bit of the block surface. and just poke holes into the holes where you have to drill.............it will save you from having to clean up all the metal shavings from the cylinders and coolant jackets...............much easier to clean. and safer if you dont manage to get all the metal shavings out........
thats how we do it on the POS cadillac northstar engine when they pull the threads out from the block...........
a tip for anyone else trying this procedure...........get some duct tape and run a few strips across the deck of the block covering every last bit of the block surface. and just poke holes into the holes where you have to drill.............it will save you from having to clean up all the metal shavings from the cylinders and coolant jackets...............much easier to clean. and safer if you dont manage to get all the metal shavings out........
thats how we do it on the POS cadillac northstar engine when they pull the threads out from the block...........
NICE.
note on pic #2. NEVER put a wrench near both terminals of a battery... that is BIG trouble waiting to happen.
note on pic #2. NEVER put a wrench near both terminals of a battery... that is BIG trouble waiting to happen.
learned the hard way
now my battery gets covered with a tower when i use tools....
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