Overheating on a track (pics)
#76
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: West Hills, ca, United States
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Re: Overheating on a track (petrv)
I would flush the radiator out with a strong acetic cleaner and do a full tuneup on the car whigh would include a compression and leakdaown test. After those 2 tests you will definitely determine if is is a head gasket or warped head. Maintenence on a car is important if you want it to last. The plugs also look like the motor was a bit lean and burning a liitle oil.
#77
Re: Overheating on a track (ms1motorsports)
I took some more pics today.
First of all, I found again the deposits on my radiator cap. It is probalby still circulating in the cooling system.
This is the front of my lude, everything is stock, there is probably a bit smaller licence plate in the States:
I found that the air can go only to the lower side of the radiator, under the licence plate. I noticed that the condenser, that sits in front of the radiator, is a bit damaged and dirty, maybe the air can't pass through this grid, what do you think? Can I straighten the grid somehow?
First of all, I found again the deposits on my radiator cap. It is probalby still circulating in the cooling system.
This is the front of my lude, everything is stock, there is probably a bit smaller licence plate in the States:
I found that the air can go only to the lower side of the radiator, under the licence plate. I noticed that the condenser, that sits in front of the radiator, is a bit damaged and dirty, maybe the air can't pass through this grid, what do you think? Can I straighten the grid somehow?
#78
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Re: Overheating on a track (petrv)
the fins would be very hard time consuming to fix. i would try pressure washing it first.
i am not to sure about your problem, i have been battling a similar problem on my car.
have you replaced the water pump with a good one, like OEM?
i have found that some of the cheaper ones you get from parts stores have poor quality fins, and the will flex under the load of the water being pulled through them. the OEM, and better quality ones do not, so they can circulate the water better.
also, you did say you changed the thermostat right? was it also a good quality brand. i have found the generic parts store brands to be of poor quality when compared to its original OEM counterpart.
also buy a new cap. it if is not pressurizing, it will overheat because the pressure will keep the water from boiling. a better anti freeze ratio may help as well. the anti freeze doesnt have any cooling attributes, only lubrication. try putting more water in with less anti freeze. the water is what keeps it cool. try 30/70 antifreeze to water.
there are additives from red line that will juice up the lubricating properties of the water so you wont have worry about rust.
i am not to sure about your problem, i have been battling a similar problem on my car.
have you replaced the water pump with a good one, like OEM?
i have found that some of the cheaper ones you get from parts stores have poor quality fins, and the will flex under the load of the water being pulled through them. the OEM, and better quality ones do not, so they can circulate the water better.
also, you did say you changed the thermostat right? was it also a good quality brand. i have found the generic parts store brands to be of poor quality when compared to its original OEM counterpart.
also buy a new cap. it if is not pressurizing, it will overheat because the pressure will keep the water from boiling. a better anti freeze ratio may help as well. the anti freeze doesnt have any cooling attributes, only lubrication. try putting more water in with less anti freeze. the water is what keeps it cool. try 30/70 antifreeze to water.
there are additives from red line that will juice up the lubricating properties of the water so you wont have worry about rust.
#81
Re: Overheating on a track (serious)
UPDATE: mission complete? I hope.
So, I was again on the track yesterday. Changes from previous session:
1) Cleaned condenser. My condenser is sitting in front of the radiator and it's lower part was bent from little stones (see pics in my previous posts). I tried to strighten the grid and clean it with pressure air. I know it doesn't look like new, but it is a big improvement:
2) I replaced my radiator cap with the cap of one my friend, who never overheats on the track.
And the results:
As you can see, the temp gauge stayed in the middle all the time, even if my heating was switched off. The temperature first raised a bit faster then in previous session, but the raise then slowed and I finnished with the temp 107C/223F (note that 109C is one bar above middle on the gauge) and temp gauge still in the middle. I dind't need to slow down during the 30min session. My fans were on for the second half of the session, I don't know if it should be like this.
What do you think about it? Do you think I solved the problem or there is still some problem remaining? I also don't know if it improved thanks to the condenser cleaning or thanks to the rad cap.
So, I was again on the track yesterday. Changes from previous session:
1) Cleaned condenser. My condenser is sitting in front of the radiator and it's lower part was bent from little stones (see pics in my previous posts). I tried to strighten the grid and clean it with pressure air. I know it doesn't look like new, but it is a big improvement:
2) I replaced my radiator cap with the cap of one my friend, who never overheats on the track.
And the results:
As you can see, the temp gauge stayed in the middle all the time, even if my heating was switched off. The temperature first raised a bit faster then in previous session, but the raise then slowed and I finnished with the temp 107C/223F (note that 109C is one bar above middle on the gauge) and temp gauge still in the middle. I dind't need to slow down during the 30min session. My fans were on for the second half of the session, I don't know if it should be like this.
What do you think about it? Do you think I solved the problem or there is still some problem remaining? I also don't know if it improved thanks to the condenser cleaning or thanks to the rad cap.
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