Overheating on a track (pics)
04-11-2004, 08:13 PM
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Re: (leadfoot78)
The pic of combustion chamber #1 looks like there is coolant residue burned on it in the center between the valves. Did you drain the head and block first or could it have gotten in there when you pulled the head off? The deposites on those valves look different from the ones on the other cylinders too. I would consider having the head checked for cracks and getting a valve job. It could have just been a small head gasket leak though.
04-11-2004, 11:42 PM
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Re: (leadfoot78)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the middle o-ring should be visible, meaning if it's not in the grove around the orifice under the middle cam cap than u need to put the right o-ring there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you are not right here. All the 3 orifices have hidden O-rings, you have to screw a bolt into it's hole, pull it from the head and you will see the O-ring. I tried it, even the O-ring on the middle orifice is hidden.
I think you are not right here. All the 3 orifices have hidden O-rings, you have to screw a bolt into it's hole, pull it from the head and you will see the O-ring. I tried it, even the O-ring on the middle orifice is hidden.
04-11-2004, 11:46 PM
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Re: (Mohudsolo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The pic of combustion chamber #1 looks like there is coolant residue burned on it in the center between the valves. Did you drain the head and block first or could it have gotten in there when you pulled the head off? The deposites on those valves look different from the ones on the other cylinders too. I would consider having the head checked for cracks and getting a valve job. It could have just been a small head gasket leak though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, I was not able to loosen the big drain bolt on the block, so when the head was loosened, the rest of water dripped to the cylinders and on the block. Now I dunno if I need to change the oil, because probably some coolant went to the oil pan (the oil is 500miles old). Or will the coolant evaporate from the oil when hot so I can let it there?
No, I was not able to loosen the big drain bolt on the block, so when the head was loosened, the rest of water dripped to the cylinders and on the block. Now I dunno if I need to change the oil, because probably some coolant went to the oil pan (the oil is 500miles old). Or will the coolant evaporate from the oil when hot so I can let it there?
04-11-2004, 11:52 PM
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Re: (petrv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think you are not right here. All the 3 orifices have hidden O-rings, you have to screw a bolt into it's hole, pull it from the head and you will see the O-ring. I tried it, even the O-ring on the middle orifice is hidden.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe the H-series head is diff, my GSR head had an o-ring that was actully compressed by the cam cap, it was visible. I figured that they were thesame, maybe they are not, sorry for the confusion.
I think you are not right here. All the 3 orifices have hidden O-rings, you have to screw a bolt into it's hole, pull it from the head and you will see the O-ring. I tried it, even the O-ring on the middle orifice is hidden.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe the H-series head is diff, my GSR head had an o-ring that was actully compressed by the cam cap, it was visible. I figured that they were thesame, maybe they are not, sorry for the confusion.
04-11-2004, 11:54 PM
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Re: (leadfoot78)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe the H-series head is diff, my GSR head had an o-ring that was actully compressed by the cam cap, it was visible. I figured that they were thesame, maybe they are not, sorry for the confusion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't worry, my friend's Civic VTEC has the middle O-ring also visible, that's why I asked. It's probably different.
Maybe the H-series head is diff, my GSR head had an o-ring that was actully compressed by the cam cap, it was visible. I figured that they were thesame, maybe they are not, sorry for the confusion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't worry, my friend's Civic VTEC has the middle O-ring also visible, that's why I asked. It's probably different.
04-12-2004, 12:15 AM
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Re: (petrv)
Today I discovered a short scratch on the block. It's near the cylinder #2, about 3mm (0.1inch) from the cylinder and about 4mm (0.2inch) long. I can feel it with my finger nail, it is only a pan, no material is going above the flat surface. It's interesting, that cylinder #2 looks nice, the problem was with the cylinder #1. Will the head gasket seat properly?
The cylinder #2 looks like this, the same as the "good" 3 cylinders:
The cylinder #2 looks like this, the same as the "good" 3 cylinders:
04-13-2004, 07:37 AM
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Re: (Crazydave)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have a picture of the tops of the pistions #2 and #3?</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is the best I have:
This is the best I have:
04-13-2004, 09:33 AM
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Re: (Crazydave)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">usually when you are leaking coolant into the cylinder.. the leaky cylinder is cleaner than the others.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't notice any major coolant loss, only the coolign system was pressurized.
I didn't notice any major coolant loss, only the coolign system was pressurized.
04-13-2004, 09:38 AM
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Re: (Crazydave)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crazydave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you ever test your radiator....
I still think you have a clogged radiator</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only thing I tried was to blow into the radiator's neck with my mouth, I felt no resistance. I know it is not enough.
I still think you have a clogged radiator</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only thing I tried was to blow into the radiator's neck with my mouth, I felt no resistance. I know it is not enough.
04-13-2004, 09:46 AM
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Re: (petrv)
HEHEHEHE...
when the car was warm and running..
did you stick you had behind the radiator in different spots?
do you see crud built up around the necks,
when you run a hose through it..
does it flow freely...
does a bunch more crap come out?
How old is the radiator?
when the car was warm and running..
did you stick you had behind the radiator in different spots?
do you see crud built up around the necks,
when you run a hose through it..
does it flow freely...
does a bunch more crap come out?
How old is the radiator?
04-13-2004, 09:55 AM
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Re: (Crazydave)
The radiator's neck looks like new. All my cooling paths (thermostat housing, hoses etc.) are inside absolutely clean, really like new:
The radiator is original, year 1995.
04-14-2004, 09:43 PM
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Re: (averageJoe)
I have another question:
if I flush and bleed the cooling system (engine running with radiator cap off), should the running engine still push the coolant out of the radiator's neck and thus still overflowing or the coolant level in radiator should stay constant? My overflowing (with the old head gasket) can be seen here: http://www.volny.cz/veitel/prelude/o...t/overflow.mpg (1.2MB).
if I flush and bleed the cooling system (engine running with radiator cap off), should the running engine still push the coolant out of the radiator's neck and thus still overflowing or the coolant level in radiator should stay constant? My overflowing (with the old head gasket) can be seen here: http://www.volny.cz/veitel/prelude/o...t/overflow.mpg (1.2MB).
04-17-2004, 11:13 PM
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Re: (petrv)
it should over flow when it warm up because coolant expands. check the raiditor it might flow enough to cool the engine on normal speeds but when racing for a good amount of time it might not able to keep up.
04-18-2004, 08:07 PM
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Re: Overheating on a track (petrv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
spark plugs 1 to 3 look weird to me, look at the ceramic, they should either be all constant black, i mean, look at the first three, they look like a leopard, and look at number 4 is a more constant black.
I tell this from a point of view, i tune my bike by how the spark plug looks, so i kinda have a lil experience.
BTW: next time you pull the head, try to pour a lil oil on each cilinder, so the rings will be keep lubricated...
how is it running?
and that camera has a kicking macro!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
spark plugs 1 to 3 look weird to me, look at the ceramic, they should either be all constant black, i mean, look at the first three, they look like a leopard, and look at number 4 is a more constant black.
I tell this from a point of view, i tune my bike by how the spark plug looks, so i kinda have a lil experience.
BTW: next time you pull the head, try to pour a lil oil on each cilinder, so the rings will be keep lubricated...
how is it running?
and that camera has a kicking macro!
04-18-2004, 09:19 PM
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Re: Overheating on a track (GZERO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZERO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
spark plugs 1 to 3 look weird to me, look at the ceramic, they should either be all constant black, i mean, look at the first three, they look like a leopard, and look at number 4 is a more constant black.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm, so what should I do with it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZERO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW: next time you pull the head, try to pour a lil oil on each cilinder, so the rings will be keep lubricated...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I lubricated the cylinders, of course...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZERO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how is it running?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It runs perfect so far, I go on the track on Wensday, I'll le t you know if it overheats or not. BTW do you have your heating set to warm to prevent overheating when you are on a track?
spark plugs 1 to 3 look weird to me, look at the ceramic, they should either be all constant black, i mean, look at the first three, they look like a leopard, and look at number 4 is a more constant black.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm, so what should I do with it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZERO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW: next time you pull the head, try to pour a lil oil on each cilinder, so the rings will be keep lubricated...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I lubricated the cylinders, of course...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZERO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how is it running?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It runs perfect so far, I go on the track on Wensday, I'll le t you know if it overheats or not. BTW do you have your heating set to warm to prevent overheating when you are on a track?
04-21-2004, 02:27 PM
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Re: Overheating on a track (petrv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hmm, so what should I do with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing, i did some researching and on a lot of cars this is the way they should look, weird, maybe is because my combustion chamber is almost perfectly round (on the bike) and the flame travel is more constant, i don't really know, this is just a lame theory i created.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I lubricated the cylinders, of course...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Glad to know, i'm sorry if it sounded like an insult.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It runs perfect so far, I go on the track on Wensday, I'll le t you know if it overheats or not. BTW do you have your heating set to warm to prevent overheating when you are on a track?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sadly, i don't race my car, but i live in Venezuela, whish is right in the ecuator, so we see high temps...so does our cars. My suggestion is, try to run it with the heat in the cool position and see how the car does... if you see it starting to run hotter turn it to the full hot position (you don't really need to turn the fan on since the coolant will be already flowing trough there, but if you decide to run the fan that will help as well) and if you see overheating or slight hot temps, i would recommend a better oil cooler, a better oil (syntethic) and in the last case an aluminum radiator would work wonder. But try to run it with the heat on the cool position, that way if something goes wrong you'll have that liter sitting on the heat exchanger ready to cool the engine.
BTW: congrats on that post layout, i wish everyone on HT would post like this...
Hmm, so what should I do with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing, i did some researching and on a lot of cars this is the way they should look, weird, maybe is because my combustion chamber is almost perfectly round (on the bike) and the flame travel is more constant, i don't really know, this is just a lame theory i created.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I lubricated the cylinders, of course...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Glad to know, i'm sorry if it sounded like an insult.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It runs perfect so far, I go on the track on Wensday, I'll le t you know if it overheats or not. BTW do you have your heating set to warm to prevent overheating when you are on a track?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sadly, i don't race my car, but i live in Venezuela, whish is right in the ecuator, so we see high temps...so does our cars. My suggestion is, try to run it with the heat in the cool position and see how the car does... if you see it starting to run hotter turn it to the full hot position (you don't really need to turn the fan on since the coolant will be already flowing trough there, but if you decide to run the fan that will help as well) and if you see overheating or slight hot temps, i would recommend a better oil cooler, a better oil (syntethic) and in the last case an aluminum radiator would work wonder. But try to run it with the heat on the cool position, that way if something goes wrong you'll have that liter sitting on the heat exchanger ready to cool the engine.
BTW: congrats on that post layout, i wish everyone on HT would post like this...
04-21-2004, 04:52 PM
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Re: Overheating on a track (GZERO)
damn from the look of spark plug one it looks like ur running lean, and if ur blowing white smoke then it sounds like burning coolant, seems like ur thinking to hard about it usually with something like this its something stupid and simple that was just overlooked
04-29-2004, 10:39 AM
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Re: Overheating on a track (Lscivichatch92)
So, as I wrote in another thread, I changed the head gasket and it still overheated on the track :-(.
I changed the thermostat today as a next step. I will go on the track on wendsday again, so I will let you know the results.
I also tested the old thermostat, and it looks like it opens and closes OK when I warm it. Does it mean that the thermostat is 100% OK or it could be damaged somehow? The lift is 9mm (it should be at least 8mm).
I changed the thermostat today as a next step. I will go on the track on wendsday again, so I will let you know the results.
I also tested the old thermostat, and it looks like it opens and closes OK when I warm it. Does it mean that the thermostat is 100% OK or it could be damaged somehow? The lift is 9mm (it should be at least 8mm).