ok i changed my pan gasket like 2 times but keeps leaking n rips
im going to change it one more time and try n do it right
can anyone tell me how to do it right like how much hondabond n how tight to tightthe bolts

thnks!

What engine?
Should be about 104 in/lbs, [about 8-9 ft/lb] not that tight.


My guess is you have over-torqued the bolts and warped the pan, you will need to check and see if pan is warped, [dimpled at bolt holes], repair as needed.

If pan is in good shape, a thin layer of Hondabond on each side of gasket is all that is needed. 94

alright thanks!

also the oil pan gasket on a bseries (not sure about other motors) has two metal rings around two bolt holes on the tranny side, sometimes they stay on the block and can stop the gasket from seating.

just an idea never hurts to double check it all

one of the most important thing i do when i put in the oil pan gasket, is, to make sure that all mating surfaces are extra extra clean. also, an accurate torque wrench with hondabond works great too.

it seems to leak between the bolts n where the bolts are.. ima most liky change it tomo

thanks for the input guys!

This is what i was thinkin... good post.

dont overtighten it or it will leak or break the gasket.
i usually get a screwdriver thing with 10mm and hand tighten the bolts

bs this **** ripped n leaks now
ima buy a new oil pan n i get a free gasket from autozone

Seriously man, get a GOOD torque wrench. Not one of those $25 10-150 ft-lbs wrenches from AutoZone. You need a 0-80 ft-lbs at the largest, or preferably a small one that reads actual inch-lbs, like a Craftsman Digitork. I bought one of those after I over-tightened the pan bolts on my brother's del Sol.

I used it on my own oil pan when I replaced the gasket, with NO hondabond, and I have no oil leaking issues. However I think you need to use it on the corners on a D-series pan gasket where it curves around the oil pump and rear main seal plate.

It did take me 1-2 hours to get all traces of the old gasket off of my oil pan. Keep in mind my original one had 270K miles on it when I replaced it. It was crusty! I finally got out some of my Wesley's Bleech White tire cleaner, which dissolves rubber (that's how it cleans tires) and that helped get the old junk off.

if you start to see the pan gasket "squeeze" out while tightening it down you have it to tight and it WILL leak....allot of torque wrenches suck for the low torque applications like that. i usually use my 1/4" drive hand ratchet and snug the bolts while carefully watching to make sure i don't squeeze/crush the gasket to much.

this sucks lol waste of oil lol but ima try one more time
n what do i torque them to?

I have to agree with non-VTEC if you do not have a proper torque wrench, [or can't borrow or rent one] eyeball the gasket as you tighten the bolts, fallow proper bolt pattern sequence, keep in mind you can always tighten them a little more if you spot a leak if they are under-torqued, under-torquing does not damage the oil pan. 94

Check your pcv valve a clogged or defective one will cause oil leaks very often over looked

I wouldnt even bother with a torque wrench. IMO its all about feel...just barely snug, if not a little less. Better to undertighten than overtighten as mentioned.

yeah i changed it today it looks good but im gonna go drive around the block tomorrow morning to see whats upp then if its good.. tune time! lol

thanks yall!

Some are not mechanicly inclined enough to do this. I never use a torque wrench on oil pan bolts. its all in the "arms"