Motor Install-Lots of Problems...Help Me Out!
ok, here's what's going on. basically rebuilt a jdm 2nd gen b16a, replaced all seals, belts, head gasket, rings, etc. the bottom end is stock and the head has a ctr intake cam. it's got the basic i/h/e and b&m fpr as well. the head was sent to the machine shop, replaced the intake valves for some itr ones and replaced the valve seals. no springs or retainers were changed though. i have not had the chance to install the skunk2 cam gears as i am waiting for them to come in so i'm using stock ones. the fpr is reading 34 psi(not sure if this is enough for the ctr cam).
i am pretty sure that the car needs a valve adjustment because it's making the noise we all know about. i'm pretty sure the timing is straight but i'm beginning to wonder if it may be off like a tooth. there is no knocking or pinging. when the car is cold and you attempt to start it, it will start but immediately cuts off. but you can start it right back up easily, no hesitation.
if you give it gas until the car warms up, it will stay on with no assistance and idle fine at 750 rpm. however, if you take it for a test drive and go into corners, the car will cut off but start back up immediately. sometimes it feels as if the throttle gets stuck in the low rpms as well but once you reach say 1500-2000 rpm, it's all good.
could the valves be staying open causing it not to feel as powerful as it should( like there's not enough compression). or what would be causing it to cut off or stall like it is? i know it's either timing, valves, or not enough fuel that's causing all my issues. any help is appreciated! thanks.
i am pretty sure that the car needs a valve adjustment because it's making the noise we all know about. i'm pretty sure the timing is straight but i'm beginning to wonder if it may be off like a tooth. there is no knocking or pinging. when the car is cold and you attempt to start it, it will start but immediately cuts off. but you can start it right back up easily, no hesitation.
if you give it gas until the car warms up, it will stay on with no assistance and idle fine at 750 rpm. however, if you take it for a test drive and go into corners, the car will cut off but start back up immediately. sometimes it feels as if the throttle gets stuck in the low rpms as well but once you reach say 1500-2000 rpm, it's all good.
could the valves be staying open causing it not to feel as powerful as it should( like there's not enough compression). or what would be causing it to cut off or stall like it is? i know it's either timing, valves, or not enough fuel that's causing all my issues. any help is appreciated! thanks.
and how would you go about just checking the cam timing? or are you referring to the timing of the whole motor, ie. distributor, crank, cams, etc?
Using the white mark on the crank pulley, set the pistons at TDC and make sure that the cam gears are aligned at TDC as well.
If they are not, your cam timing is off.
If they are not, your cam timing is off.
ok, this is what i did, based upon the helms manual. set piston #1 at tdc and there are three notches on the pulley. i aligned the middle(red) notch with the notch on the timing belt cover that's to the left of the tensioner bolt. i then aligned the cam gears to tdc. everything looks fine and straight.
That middle mark is about 15 degrees off of tdc, but good try! The single white mark on the pulley just to the right of those is the tdc mark! set your timing to that and you will be set! The three little marks is for setting you timing via distributor once the car is running!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattssi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That middle mark is about 15 degrees off of tdc, but good try! The single white mark on the pulley just to the right of those is the tdc mark! set your timing to that and you will be set! The three little marks is for setting you timing via distributor once the car is running! </TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly!
exactly!
LOL!!! I fixed a car like that! It was running like ****! It would backfire all the time and wouldn't even rev past 3k(B16). Once you set it right, and turn the fuel psi up to like 42psi the codes might go away, thats what happend with my friends car. Be careful with the timing, turn the motor by hand and every 1/4 turn of the crank check the tention and timing. Also, time the ignition it with a timing gun.
that's another thing. 42 psi for the fuel pressure? what is a good setting for the fuel pressure with the cam in it anyways? haven't had the chance to hook up an air/fuel gauge to see how its doing yet.
ok, update. my mechanic did the valve adjustment. they were WAY too tight from the machine shop. he had to loosen the timing belt as well. the cel says it's the crankshaft sensor. my question is this. on the obd2 oil pump, there are holes for where the screws go to hold the wiring in place for the sensor. when i installed it, there only seemed to be one way to install it. how can i tell if the sensor is bad or just installed incorrectly? that thing is like $100 at the dealership and i'd hate to have to spend more loot for nothing! thanks.
i need an obd2 crank angle sensor. prefer one from a 99-00 si but a 96+ gsr will work. have cash. im me with what you got. thanks!
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