Low $$$ ITR/CTR 5 lug conversion...
Instead of swapping out my complete suspension for that of a ITR/CTR. What do I need to do to mine to save $$$ and be able to have 5 lug? I presently have a DX EJ coupe with drum brakes.
why do you want to do this, its not gonna help you out in performance or to shorten your brake distance. my opinion on this is a waste of money and time.
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why do you want to do this, its not gonna help you out in performance or to shorten your brake distance. my opinion on this is a waste of money and time.
I say go for it, but you have a lot of work ahead of you. Do it right, don't half *** it.
Well, you must have done something wrong, because bigger rotors and stronger calipers = less stoping distance and minimal brake fade.
when you hit the brake what happens? the master cylinder pushes brake fluid in the brake lines and snice the fluid cant go anywhere it builds pressure and make the pistion in the brake caliper to make a clamping force right? and the brake pads rub on the rotor to slow down or sttop the wheel from spining right? ok, but the tire connected to the rotor can only hold on to the road before it locks and skids to a slow stop right? can you understtand where im trying to get at?
bigger brake = less stoping distance with same line pressure vs. stock. bigger brake and stock brake distance will be the same if on the brake with all your weight. i hope you understand what im trying to say.
steal the parts (but dont' ******* do that!!), buy from a junkyard, if u got a friend with a hookup on parts for cheap.
im thinking 1500+ area, it cost 1700 at http://www.inlinefour.com
but their kinda expensive there.
im thinking 1500+ area, it cost 1700 at http://www.inlinefour.com
but their kinda expensive there.
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Dont get your panties in a twist. You could always do a little research like I did and come up with a helpful page like this: http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/5lug.html
I doubt you can use your current hubs. The ITR uses larger wheel bearings that the other Integra and Civics. I know what your saying in that you want to just press in the 5 lug hubs, but I doubt that would work. You should try researching if the CRV bearings will fit in your steering knuckles. If they do then you could just press in the hubs from the CRV, they're 5 lug also.
alright, a little secret for those that dont know. you dont need a complete brake swap to do this. my friend and i did a 5 lug conversion on his del sol VTEC. all he bought from acura was the hubs, rotors and calipers. everything bolted up puuuurrrrfect. no mods necessary. now he has 5 lug for half the price. HOWEVER, that would not work on your CX in the rear since you have the drum brakes. you have to get the mbc and new brake lines (civic si). we have pondered this set up and it worked flawlessly. now his j-spec delly is runing on some 5 lugged jdm R rims. nice you ask? verrrrrryyyy
how much did it cost your friend to buy all that from the acura dealer? i know they offer 5-lug conversion at inlinefour.com for like $1700. thats mucho $$!!
Sorry Bro, but that explanation doesn't fly with me. As some who went from civic brakes to a 97 type R conversion, I know for a fact my car stops better than before. Even though they are only the same size as the GSR, my car will outstop a otherwise stock GSR simply because my car is lighter. Not only does my car stop faster than before, it also stops with more control, as my previous brakes would frequently lock up. I see that you're suggesting that decreased stopping distances stem from better tires. In a sense that's also true, but the thing is it works all in a system, and you'd get better tires anyways with the R conversion. If larger brakes didn't work like you imply, then why aren't we all running around with civic dx brakes? Why is it that race cars run huge brakes? Do you know something that those engineers don't?
Didnt the original post just ask about a way to put on a 5 lug and didnt mention a single thing about swapping over the brakes??? In that case, of course you wont gain anything performance wise from swaping over to a 5 lug. I know that in Japan they do sell the hub adapters to change 4 bolt to 5 bolt. I saw one on an old Silvia and I think they used a 4x100 pattern. Maybe you can find something similar here or you can get them from japan somehow....
how much did it cost your friend to buy all that from the acura dealer? i know they offer 5-lug conversion at inlinefour.com for like $1700. thats mucho $$!!
Race cars run big brakes + big rotors because of brake fade. Brake rotors are a big heat sink, and thats about it. What happens when you stop? You convert kinetic energy (car's motion) into thermal engergy (friction of the brake pads creates heat). The better your rotors can store and/or dissipate heat, the less chance you will have of getting that mushy brake fade in your pedal. This is not desireable for racing.........
If you want the 5-lug conversion for the ITR look, go for it - just do it right in the name of safety, they are your brakes afterall. If you are doing it for stopping power? It may stop better (i cannot validate this) but there are much cheaper/better means to that end. First step would be tires - grippy tires stop better. The second step would be a good set of brake pads (carbotech kelate metallic or panther plus, hawk HP+, porterfield R4's, etc) and a fluid flush with ATE Superblue or Motul 600. My car (95 Saturn SC2) stops with the braking power of a city bus, in a 2200 lb car. Its VERY impressive on r-tires when i autoX, even in the rain. That being said, you draw your own conclusions. When starting any project you should define the scope of the project and its objective - then work towards acheiving it. If you dont properly evaluate the pressure-torque relationship of the caliper/pad/rotor assembly, and the pressure-volume relationships of the system, as well as the relationships between piston size/torque and master cylinder characteristics, you could have a poorly braking car. So big brakes are not always "better". But damn if they dont look cool
-Ryan 95SC2 #88ES
If you want the 5-lug conversion for the ITR look, go for it - just do it right in the name of safety, they are your brakes afterall. If you are doing it for stopping power? It may stop better (i cannot validate this) but there are much cheaper/better means to that end. First step would be tires - grippy tires stop better. The second step would be a good set of brake pads (carbotech kelate metallic or panther plus, hawk HP+, porterfield R4's, etc) and a fluid flush with ATE Superblue or Motul 600. My car (95 Saturn SC2) stops with the braking power of a city bus, in a 2200 lb car. Its VERY impressive on r-tires when i autoX, even in the rain. That being said, you draw your own conclusions. When starting any project you should define the scope of the project and its objective - then work towards acheiving it. If you dont properly evaluate the pressure-torque relationship of the caliper/pad/rotor assembly, and the pressure-volume relationships of the system, as well as the relationships between piston size/torque and master cylinder characteristics, you could have a poorly braking car. So big brakes are not always "better". But damn if they dont look cool

-Ryan 95SC2 #88ES
Sorry Bro, but that explanation doesn't fly with me. As some who went from civic brakes to a 97 type R conversion, I know for a fact my car stops better than before. Even though they are only the same size as the GSR, my car will outstop a otherwise stock GSR simply because my car is lighter. Not only does my car stop faster than before, it also stops with more control, as my previous brakes would frequently lock up. I see that you're suggesting that decreased stopping distances stem from better tires. In a sense that's also true, but the thing is it works all in a system, and you'd get better tires anyways with the R conversion. If larger brakes didn't work like you imply, then why aren't we all running around with civic dx brakes? Why is it that race cars run huge brakes? Do you know something that those engineers don't?
I meant that question to be taken in sarcasm. Definately a good explaination however. I totally agree. The thing is R suspension conversions usually come with the master cylinder as well, or atleast mine did.
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