All of a sudden my car starts running s**tty, with loss of power throughout the rev range. Light throttle causes some hesitation, but heavy input very little difference than before the problems. I have new plugs, wires, cap and fuel filter. I don't think it's a ignition issue, rather fuel related. After changing the plugs I noticed the engine is running lean, but this is somewhat normal for high-mileage OBD0-emission vehicles, no-the-less lean.

Out of curiousity I checked the injectors resistance readings, and according to Helms they should be between 10-12 Ohms, mine show 2.20-Ohms. However, in Haynes they say the injectors on the same year Legend should be around 6-Ohms, and they go further to say that for the Integra I should send the car to the dealership for checking??? If Haynes suggests to send the car in, I assume there's more to it than just checking the resistance with a general multimeter. I've put my ear to the handle of a screwdriver to hear them, and they seem to sound fine. They have the consistent clicking as before the problems.

I don't think it's the O2 sensor because I'm not receiving a code.

There is another issue. With the loss of power and hesitation, I've noticed a slight metallic popping sound from underenough the car. If I set at idle I can hear the noise flow through the tailpipe, when I'm driving under load I hear it more from the side. Can I just remove the cat to check if this is the issue? If I do can I just leave the 02 sensor out-since the cat will be gone? If it is the cat will the hestation go away with the cat out and the 02 sensor free, or will the safe mode cause a similiar problem?

Help! Again loss of power, hesitation in mid-throttle input, and popping sound in the cat/exhaust area.


*edit*
I did do a search, and read many posts, but nothing clear cut as I would like.

 

a popping sound after you replace wire, right? sounds like you ignition time is off. go and recheck your wires and make that they are correct.

 

With the slight hesitation, surging, off-idle stumble, etc...all happening after one gas change, and with the engine already running lean, before, I strongly believe it's injector related. I called the dealership, parts department(because service managers are idiots) and the dude actually ran to the service dept to grab a manual from a tech, info from the manual suggests 1.7-2.5 Ohms, so my Ohms reading is correct. Next, double checked the injector noise, I notice number 2 and 3 sound different both in rate and amplitude as 1 and 4.

I think the bad load of gas did in already clogged injectors(they probably haven't been cleaned in their 160K mile life). The popping of the exhaust must be nothing more than misfire(I was thinking a bad cat, but there seems to be no rattling of material inside the unit, nor is the heat sheild loose).

I know the plugs, wires, and cap are still good, because I just installed them, about 2 months ago with the timing belt and oil pump change. But, I will triple check all along with fuel pressure again.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evolve &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think the bad load of gas did in already clogged injectors(they probably haven't been cleaned in their 160K mile life). The popping of the exhaust must be nothing more than misfire(I was thinking a bad cat, but there seems to be no rattling of material inside the unit, nor is the heat sheild loose).


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well, your cat should not cause back fire at a lean condition. However, if your cat is clog it would an egr affect and would make engine run rought at idle. But in your case, I don't believe it's your cat. However, we can eliminate the cat as a possible problem. okay, at above idle your motor should start you run normal. This will tell you if your cat is clog; or, you can remove you o2 sensor and let the exhaust bleed out since it's before the cat. if your cat goes away - then is your cat. However, I don't belive it's your cat.

Can you answer this question for me? did you problem started right after you replace your timing belt and secondary ignition system(cap, rotor, wires. and plugs)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HONDADNA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well, your cat should not cause back fire at a lean condition. However, if your cat is clog it would an egr affect and would make engine run rought at idle. But in your case, I don't believe it's your cat. However, we can eliminate the cat as a possible problem. okay, at above idle your motor should start you run normal. This will tell you if your cat is clog; or, you can remove you o2 sensor and let the exhaust bleed out since it's before the cat. if your cat goes away - then is your cat. However, I don't belive it's your cat.

Can you answer this question for me? did you problem started right after you replace your timing belt and secondary ignition system(cap, rotor, wires. and plugs)?

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I gave the cat as a possibility, because I never had a bad cat, I don't know what happens if it is bad. The popping in the exhaust is just poor combustion, I think. The cat doesn't rattle, but could be clogged abit. But, would a clogged cat cause such an issue?

Well I've been driving on the new timing belt, oil pump, wires, plugs and cap for about 2 months, so I don't think these items are related. I still believe it's a fuel issue.

I did however replace the fuel filter about a month ago. Could the new fuel filter and drving the car to a low level of fuel(before the gas change in question) cause residue to flow into the injectors? Does the fuel filter function like many other filters? does it need to gather particles from the stream before it becomes more effective?

 

okay, the problem started months after you replace t-belt and the secondary ignition. Well three thing can an engine running problems:1)fuel, 2)ignition, and 3)compression.. let's start with fuel; okay, we know that we've have fuel present because the car runs. now as far as resistance test - I don't like them. for, resistance reading changes depends on temperture. Plus, doing a resistance test is not accurate. However, an amperage draw test is better. but first, you need to check fuel pressure at idle. the spec is 35 and disconnect the vaccuum line from fuel reg. and it should be around 43 - 45 psi. if this is okay.

do a compression test with motor at operating temp. and wide open throttle with a battery charge took to maintane engine cracking speed. also, don't for to put the fuse to disable fuel pump during the test.

also, check your intake vaccuum at idle - should be 18 - 22 steady.

try this first and get back.

 

Well as I first suspected it was the injectors. They must have been fouled pretty good. I took to the Pep Boys next door to have them done. When I first started it up it was running still abit rough, but once I got on the highway there was a major difference. Now it runs just like it did before the problems, including startup. It's weird how as first startup at Pep Boys it was still running rough but not anymore, maybe "vapor-lock"? I'm glad that's all it was, even though it set me back $70, but aleast it's back to it's responsive nature, again.
BTW, I'm a strong believer in proper injection cleaning. Always take it in to a good shop. Intank fuel cleaners dilute greatly, and they should ONLY be used as preventive maintence. There are a few DIY kits that allow pressurised backflow and good cleaning, but they'll set you back a pretty penny.

I'll continue to use premium gas, that's Mobol/Texaco/Shell for me, over the cheaper ones. But why, you ask, the cheaper brands are 100% natural hydrocarbons. But why, you ask, 100% gas that must be the best, definitely is for power production, but not so good on injectors over time. The premium gases contain detergents to help prevent varnish buildup in the fuel system. Also, in many cases the higher octanes will have even more detergents. Experts suggest that if detergent homogenized gasoline is used throughout the engines life you may never have to have the injectors cleaned. Of course all this will depend on who you talk to. I believe it, my wifes Plymouth Caravell how 200K mile on the clock and it never needed the injectors cleaned, it was run on Shell all it's life. blah, blah, blah, any who, I feel better now.

Now, I should be reconsidering the spark gap, since we're getting 106+deg heat here. Time for some fine tuning. Dammm, it's hot!!!

PS, my last compression test I did came up; 205, 210, 198, 205, a slight difference but great numbers. Number 3 cylinder must have a slight carbon buildup on the valves, but nothing scary.

 

That's great to hear that your problem is resolved. I always recommend injector clean to all of my customer clockin in 60k or more. I used BG induction cleaning system. so far, it's been the **** I've used.