i just installedbrand new itr, spring ,retainers ,and cams.
my issue is my intake cam is really difficult to turn without the belt on the gears.has anyone ever run in to this type of problem with cam and valvetrain work? what could be the possible problems?
i used the tool from snap-on that allows spring removal without taking off the head.the method i used to keep the valves from falling in the cylinder was bringing the piston to tdc then removing the springs.also ive check all clearances (aswell as tourque specs) and there fine. plus when i manually turn the motor when everything is in correct timing nothing hits( such as valve/piston contact). im scared to start my b16a because of this issue......help please.

 

how are you trying to rotate the intake cam? by grasping the sprocket with your hand? lol ... or by using a 14mm socket + ratchet on the camsprocket nut?

 

im turning it with a socket attached to a wrench. by the way could it be i did the torque sequence wrong ( intake caps bolts first and then the exhaust one)?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by provo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im turning it with a socket attached to a wrench. by the way could it be i did the torque sequence wrong ( intake caps bolts first and then the exhaust one)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah...that shouldn't matter, the cam should still rotate.

I'm guessing your engine is at TDC or BDC and your cam is pushing open the intake valves hitting the piston top and not allowing you to fully rotate your intake cam.

are you able to rotate the intake cam at all? or is it fully frozen in place?

 

Did you use any type of "break in" lube? Have you primed the components? How clean was the head when you installed the cams???

Derek

 

Ok, you really shouldnt turn the cam by itself. I am 98% sure you are making the valve hit the piston. Put the t-belt on w/ everything at TDC. Them, by hand turn the crank with the crank bolt. Otherwise, you could slightly bend a valve. Not much to make the car not run, but it may run like crap. If you still cant turn the motor by hand, be sure you lubed ALL the cam contact points (i.e. both lobe sets, and all cam journals). But yeah its not a safe bet to just turn the cam by itself. Since you already tried to turn the cam only, did you use a lot of force? If so, plan on having either a bad idle, or miss at WOT.

 

You can turn the cams safely if the pistons are set half way between BDC and TDC.

Derek

 

did u use the rite cam holder torque specs?

 

the cam is not frozen in place, it rotates all the way around (its just very difficult). i didnt aply a alot of force to it , but could that result in a bent valve? im not sure if thats enough force to bend a valve ,even slightly. but i could be wrong. i use assambly lube aswell.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by provo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the cam is not frozen in place, it rotates all the way around (its just very difficult). i didnt aply a alot of force to it , but could that result in a bent valve? im not sure if thats enough force to bend a valve ,even slightly. but i could be wrong. i use assambly lube aswell. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok. sounds fine then.
You shouldn't have to rotate the cam a full 360 degrees anyways, you just need to rotate it enough to set it to TDC and slip the timing belt back on. Same goes for the exhaust cam. And of course make sure the crank pulley is at TDC too (white marker).

 

Where have the pistond been while you have been rotating the cams?

Derek