Increasing B16 displacement through bore..?
Hey there,
I might be picking up an EG hatchback, and if I did, i'd probably want a high revving NA motor to tag along. So, if i bought a B16 and put in 84mm pistons, could I still rev high safely since i haven't changed the R/S ratio? I would be sleeving the block as well, of course. If i did this, what types of gains would I see, and where in the rev range?
thanks in advance
whoareyoucalling AT yahoo DOT com
I might be picking up an EG hatchback, and if I did, i'd probably want a high revving NA motor to tag along. So, if i bought a B16 and put in 84mm pistons, could I still rev high safely since i haven't changed the R/S ratio? I would be sleeving the block as well, of course. If i did this, what types of gains would I see, and where in the rev range?
thanks in advance
whoareyoucalling AT yahoo DOT com
There are plenty of high revving 1.8-2.0 liter blocks that make a ton of power. I guess it depends on how fast you want to go... If it were me I'd sleeve an LS block to 84 or 84.5 to acheive ~2.0 liters and good stroke. Just my opinion, don't let anyone tell you how to build the 'perfect' motor.
While yes, it may be cheaper to just buy a GSR block, the reason I want to bore the B16a is because of the project goals. A B16a with a 10,000 rpm redline will have about the same piston speed as that of a b18c motor at 9,000 rpm. I feel a bored out b16 could provide extra midrange punch, while not having the excessive piston speed of a stroked motor.
The engine will probably find it's way into an EG hatchback, daily driven in college, and then autox'd when I buy a grown up car afterwards ;P
Goals:
High revving NA power!!
Long-lasting motor
Daily driver reliability
Now, if i decided on a 10,000 rpm redline, what camshafts would be recommended? Also, toda valve springs or crower/eibach?
And even though the piston speed is relatively low, should I look into an aftermarket block girdle for longterm reliability?
And I know it's kind of a silly question, but what kind of gas mileage would I get with a setup like this, esp. if i used a standalone system like a hondata?
thanks!
..........
BTW: was going over my post after i submitted it, wanted to make something clear. While the words "daily driven" and "10,000 rpm redline" don't usually enter the same sentence, the motor will rarely see 6,000 rpm.. just because i <u>can</u> doesn't mean i <u>will</u>.
[Modified by JustVTEC, 7:27 AM 8/16/2001]
The engine will probably find it's way into an EG hatchback, daily driven in college, and then autox'd when I buy a grown up car afterwards ;P
Goals:
High revving NA power!!
Long-lasting motor
Daily driver reliability
Now, if i decided on a 10,000 rpm redline, what camshafts would be recommended? Also, toda valve springs or crower/eibach?
And even though the piston speed is relatively low, should I look into an aftermarket block girdle for longterm reliability?
And I know it's kind of a silly question, but what kind of gas mileage would I get with a setup like this, esp. if i used a standalone system like a hondata?
thanks!
..........
BTW: was going over my post after i submitted it, wanted to make something clear. While the words "daily driven" and "10,000 rpm redline" don't usually enter the same sentence, the motor will rarely see 6,000 rpm.. just because i <u>can</u> doesn't mean i <u>will</u>.
[Modified by JustVTEC, 7:27 AM 8/16/2001]
Why rev higher when you can make the same power w/ more displacement at a lesser RPM range? I'm not arguing, just explain to me why it is better to run your motor at 10,000 RPM than 8500 RPM if you can make the same power. The only reason I see anyone modifying the B16 is for circuit racing events that require the use of the factory block.
Ok, here's my thought process.
B16a has close to perfect motor geometry, whereas a b18 does not. If i'm still making peak power at 9800 rpm, then that, combined with shorter gearing, will make a light car (EG hatch!) go faaaaast.
And once i'm out of college/can afford a car that has more than four cylinders, this car will be completely stripped and become an autocross type car.
A b16 engine with an 84.5 mm bore has a displacement of about 1660 cc, aka a 1.7 litre, with a near perfect 1.75 RS ratio.
Do you still think it's a bad idea? give me some more feedback please.
B16a has close to perfect motor geometry, whereas a b18 does not. If i'm still making peak power at 9800 rpm, then that, combined with shorter gearing, will make a light car (EG hatch!) go faaaaast.
And once i'm out of college/can afford a car that has more than four cylinders, this car will be completely stripped and become an autocross type car.
A b16 engine with an 84.5 mm bore has a displacement of about 1660 cc, aka a 1.7 litre, with a near perfect 1.75 RS ratio.
Do you still think it's a bad idea? give me some more feedback please.
then do this get a b20b/z block, get some good/high c/r pistons...slap on a vtec head...and you're done....no need to go custom sleeves or spend some crazy cash
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Or you could get the b20z block, get some oil piston squirters installed...and use your b16 crank...or go with something like the b17 crank, and spin to 10 grand. I myself would like to do this with a b18c crank, and spin to about 8500...that should be plenty of power.
But the R/S ratio of the b16 is what many people consider perfect. From what I have heard R/S ratio is helps determine where an engine makes power, helps determine port sizes needed, etc....so if he sticks with the b16 crank he wont have to do any crazy modifications to the head. The motor should still have good all around power, with not too many sacrifices. Plus like he said before, the piston speed will not be excessive, and sidewall loading will not be too extreme.
to your idea...but it may be cheaper to use a b20b/z block.
[Modified by HXMan, 6:45 PM 8/16/2001]
But the R/S ratio of the b16 is what many people consider perfect. From what I have heard R/S ratio is helps determine where an engine makes power, helps determine port sizes needed, etc....so if he sticks with the b16 crank he wont have to do any crazy modifications to the head. The motor should still have good all around power, with not too many sacrifices. Plus like he said before, the piston speed will not be excessive, and sidewall loading will not be too extreme.
to your idea...but it may be cheaper to use a b20b/z block.[Modified by HXMan, 6:45 PM 8/16/2001]
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