Ok. After hearing the suggestions to switch my o2 sensors, I got up under the car. Come to find out that the o2 sensors are both on my test pipe, and RIGHT next to each other instead of being like 1 in front, 1 in back. Anyways, I take one out of the test pipe and stick it in the hole in the header & plug the test pipe hole up with the bolt. I get in the car...same thing (barely a signal on the a/f guage). I switch them back and forth between the 3 holes about 4 times, and drive around....now I dont have a signal at all. It wont even register, and just sits on the bottom of the guage. I am noticing that my check engine light is coming on all over the place now...as before it was just occasionally. So, in essence, I have made my situation worse. What is my next tactic guys? How much would it cost to get holes put in the top piece of my header so the o2's can go there, and is it worth it? Also, I think I might have messed up one of the wires on one of the o2's. With all the twisting/turning of taking it out and putting it back in, the wire looks like it's hanging by one of the little silver threads....This wouldn't be a problem, except for the fact that it's like 1mm away from the o2 that this happened...so I'm stumped...anyone?

JB

 

Yup, replace/fix the wire. And you may have bad o2/o2's.

 

Got any o2's lying around?

 

02 simulator $40 http://haiparts.com/catalog/product_...roducts_id/286

 

Ted,

How well does it work with the double o2's on the 1st gen B16a's, and do you use it on your own car? What kind of wiring needed, and how many u got in stock?

JB
[edit]

Also, how does this affect the idle and hesitation? Since the o2's have been going "wacko", I have had a very undetermined idle (ie. sometimes 700, sometimes, 900, sometimes 1000, sometimes pulses up and down), and I have major hesitation when I 'blip' the throttle. I also get a lot of small "backfires" along with a choppy sounding tone from my exhaust that I didn't have before. What will this do to help those problems?


[Modified by PeloTudo, 12:45 PM 1/29/2002]

 

One more thing, what kind of reading will I get on this tard a/f guage? Will it read like the normal o2's would, or is it going to be stuck on rich all the time from the simulator?

 

your not getting voltage on the o2 sensor with the a/f ratio gadge on it the gadge senses voltage nothing less nothing more so that your problem

 

So the a/f guage measures the voltage coming out from the o2 to the ECU? So that would indicate either:

a. Bad o2, broken
b. Severed wire somewhere between the o2 and the a/f guage wire?

I had the a/f guage on before I put on the DC Sports header & test pipe, and it worked correctly. Would you suggest I get the o2 simulator, and would the guage work with it?

JB

[edit (yes, again)]

Rainforest,

Since I'm not getting voltage from the current o2, if I switched wires and started getting a reading....There's the problem, correct? If that is the case, can I take the wire coming from the 2nd (bad-hypothetically) o2, and splice it into the wire coming from the 1st (good-hypothetically) o2 and eliminate the 2nd signal? That way, the 2nd wire will have the same voltage signal as the first, and fool the ECU into thinking the 2nd is on there and reading correctly? Will this work?




[Modified by PeloTudo, 1:18 PM 1/29/2002]

 

 

-That's the problem, switch the a/f guage wires

or

-Splice baby, splice

As said earlier, since this has been happeneding, I have had a f*ed up idle and bad hesitation...if I splice...will all be well?

 

Whelp. I went tonight and took the 2 o2 wires and hooked them up to my single good o2 sensor... Still nothing. I guess it's just 2 far away from the engine to get warn enuf & to send a correct signal. I will start looking for a single 4wire o2 now. What all would I have to do in order to make it work?

Wire 1- Power
Wire 2- Ground
Wire 3- Signal to o2 (Split to 2 o2's in my case)
Wire 4- What does this wire go to?

Anyone done this before and can help me? And are they the same size as my 1 wire o2's?

JB

 

My current o2 sensor setup consists of splicing both o2 sensors into 1

Hesitation occurs now and then, but feel it most when the engine isn't warmed up. The fact that most aftermarket headers locate the o2 sensor bung near the cat makes it worst.

1. pr3s run 1-wire o2 sensors that require proper heating to work efficiently. Placing it all the way down there doesn't help.

2. combining o2 sensors together will only worsen the effect as there's more resistance with 2 wires, hence the voltage output will be lower than expected.

Ask the guys at Hondata. They certainly recognise the problem with PR3s. I had a 4-2-1 with 2 bungs before the the JDM 4-1. No problems there. It started as soon as the new header was on. I'm getting it modified as soon as I get my head off.

I looked at running a 3-wire o2 sensor setup, from my gatherings the PR3 is a backward ECU which won't respond well to it. Just stick with 2 o2 sensors

Here's is my friend's header on a EF SiR - a SMSP copy. Note the o2 bungs.



Stock B16a header showing o2 sensors location




[Modified by Lyonel, 1:48 AM 1/30/2002]

 

Some of your problems sound like what Im having... idles at different spots 750 -1000.....after the car warms up..some times when letting off the gas..engine rev's up to around 2k then drops to idle.

My guage is reads different...at idle it reads rich...hit the throttle it goes lean..wide open throttle doesn't even read.
to add on to this -- at idle it reads green...I cut my parking lights on...gauge drops to the middle...cut head lights on fully...It drops to lean. My lights are pulling voltage...but how is my guage connected to the lights??? The ground a power to the guage is wired to the radio.

 

I've had suggestions from a few different people to get bungs welded in so I can screw the o2's up near the top. Problem is...where can I find these things w/ threads big enuf for the o2's to screw in to? Anyone have any?

 

i dunno that setup looks wrong to me the sms copy is reading cyl. 1 and 2 when it should read 1/4 for primary and 2/3 for sec. look at the stock b-16 manifold.