Well, i'm finally getting started on my b18c1. When i first took the head off the #1 piston was all busted up, and when i took the internals out, the #1 rod was almost bent in half. I'll post pics later. Anyway, the guy who is going to build checked the block out and its all good. It def. has to be bored because of some scratches caused by the broke piston. He said .20 over would take care of it. Now to the setup. I wan't a daily driver/track toy. I am getting JE pistons and rings, eagle H-beam rods, polished crank, bottom end will be completely balanced. All of the head valvetrain will also be replaced with aftermarket stuff (stainless valves, tit. retainers, all that stuff). I plan on running stock compression and 75 wet shot. So, basically i would still have good compression for daily driving, but still be able to squeeze the bottle at the track. For these internals i'm getting, could i raise the compression a little higher than stock, or should i stay stock compression for the n2o. I was also debating going with big bore sleeves and larger pistons to stroke to a 2.0 liter. I found the ARI sleeves for $46 a piece, so i can definitely afford to go bigger. I just wasn't sure if there would be a downside to this. I would still stay stock compression. I figured the extra displacement would be nice. Or maybe just replace the sleeves and bore just a little just to have stronger sleeves for the nitrous (maybe 100-125 shot). I have saved up the funds to complete the bottom end, and i want to start ordering everything in a week or so, i just need some help with some of my options. All help will be appreciated.

 

I'd recommend letting your budget help guide you.

The difference between stock compression and max for street fuel (12.5:1 ish) is insurance...

If you want to run closer to the limit, you may want to spend some on engine management. Going *lean* is death to almost any engine. So.. size the fuel pump, tubing, pressure regulation, injectors and whatever controls them to provide the capability of running at least as 12:1 A/F at max (WOT). Thats about the max power A/F anyway.

The stuff you're talking about doing requires some $. Most places that put sleeves in are charging in the neighborhood of $800-$1000 for sleeves by the time you've finished the final hone.

If you're going to spend the change -- take care to finish it well. I've seen too many 'blew up my engine last night' postings.. and suspect a lot of them were unnecessary but happened because the complete system wasn't considered in the hurry to either get it going or save a few $.

Kudos for asking -- means you plan on some homework before the project starts!

Just some thoughts.

Mark

 

Well, i definitely didn't plan on maxing out the compression, i was considering running maybe 10.4:1 instead of the 10:1 stock. I wanted to run as high of compression as possible, but still be able to run my 75 shot wet. And, i'll prob just go ahead and stick with stock sleeves.

 

first off, i say u have way too many questions and senarios goin to actually know what u want. research is ur friend, i suggest u use it. to help narrow down all these possibilities on exactly what u want. personally id jump to forged 11:1 pistons, scrap the rods, ur not goin to make much power beyond stock redline with exception to the nitrous, balance the bottom end, and tune that thing.

 

I'm a little suspicious about these ARI sleeves for $46.00 each. If they are that cheap they might not be able to handle the nearly 250 hp you would have. Golden eagle or RS machine may be a little more expensive for resleeving, but you get what you pay for and they're work is quite good. I think you should do it right the first time if you actually go through with resleeving.

 

when you say you'll stick with stock sleaves do you mean sleave it as 1.8