It's fine if i wait an hour later, or when ever I use the a/c and lower my temp down a little before I turn it off.

What's wrong??

 

Sounds like your fuel pump relay.

 

It may be the starter soleniod.

 

well i did just had a major tune up, timing belt, water pump, even rebuilt my warp head. and also changed my fuel pump too.

So it's the fuel pump relay?? hmmm can you give me more info on this please?

O yeah, i'm running like 100 mile for every 5 gallons. and that's driving conservative.


[Modified by 95integraLS504, 10:14 PM 4/2/2003]

 

Will the motor crank..if not, might be time to change battery. If it cranks fine, I would look for a problem with the tune-up. Take it back to your mechanic that did the work.

 

The car cranks, I'm thinking that he probaly didn't adjust the distributor right when he put the head back on. My exhaust smells really rich.

 

Classic symptoms of a bad main relay, at least in a CRX.

 

no need to adjust the distributor , it goes in 1 way.

 

It could very well be a failing ECT sensor. Basically, on a cold morning, the ECU sees the colder temps and widens the pulse width to about 50-60ms. If your ECT sensor is going bad, and telling the ECU that its cold out, when your engine is quite hot, you'll usually get a no-start. Idle pulse width, on a fully warmed motor, runs in 2-3ms range.

But, as was eluded to earlier, CRX's are known to have the PGM-Fi Main relay go bad.

 

i'd be 99% sure its a bad fuel pump relay.... this is a typical problem in a civic... under heat the solder on it loses contact. you can pop that sucker out and re-solder the connections yourself in like 10mins...

If you can't be bothered fixing it, just run the heater on cold air for like 1-2mins and it should start right up as per normal.


[Modified by EG6-SiR, 10:26 PM 4/3/2003]

 

Taht's very interesting ...

my car did that weird **** for a long time during the summer, and during hot days.

It's not recurred yet .. but i've got a bunch of other magical problems to deal with


how do I resolder this relay? any tutorial/link to information would be great!

THANKS!

 

my initial thoughts were also a bad ECT sensor...

the engine is being flooded by hte wide pulse width and wont start...

just repalce the sensor, it is under the distributor, or 1st check that it is connected properly...

t..

 

I am having the same problem! It isn't the fuel pump relay for me, because I have an inline fuel pump which is running and on the fuel rail, I have a fuel pressure gauge and I am seeing 40+ psi.

What else could it be?

 

How can I test the ECT?

 

with a multimeter, preferably digital.

put hte black lead to earth/ground/chassis and the red lead to teh 'live' wire coming off the sensor ('live' being the one that has voltage...)

when cold the sensor output should be more than 2.5v

when warm, less than 1 volt, more like 0.5v.

or just replace the sensor, they are not expensive...

t..

 

Damn, you are full of answers! Thanks

 

One more question.. if the main relay is going bad, I would have starting problems even when the motor is cold, right? how can I check if the relay is bad?

 

The IAT and ECT sensor are in effect, the same. They share the same resistance and voltage output characteristics. If you have a mulitmeter, when the car is cold, you could unplug both sensors and measure their resistance....they should be pretty close to each other. If you wanted to measure voltage output, here is a small table:

40 = 3.86v
50 = 3.61v
60 = 3.35v
70 = 3.08v
.
.
170 = .88v
180 = .74v
190 = .64v

Give this a try if it fails to start again: The ECT resistance is about 300-350 ohms at normal operating temps. If you simply unplug the ECT sensor and insert a similar value resistor (assuming its the ECT going bad), it should start up.

However, if its the Main Relay that is defunct, and its the solder joints that have gone bad, you can re-solder them. If you don't know how to solder, I would advise against this repair. If you do, then its as simple as removing it from the car, removing the cover and touching up the joints.

And a bad Main Relay will cause a no-start even in cold weather. This relay supplies voltage to the injectors, fuel pump, ECU and a few other things. If you just to your ignition to 'ON', you should hear the fuel pump prime for about 2 seconds. This is just a quick test to determine Main Relay functionality.

 

Thanks Chris, since my car always starts when the motor is cold (it may take an extra crank or two to) it is probably not the main relay. I noticed that my car is running a little rich too, can a bad IAT/ECT cause that too?

 

Yes.

 

Well, I just replaced the ECT sensor and it did not fix the problem. I am going to check out the IAT sensor next.. argh!!