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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 06:48 PM
  #1  
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Default Heater line block off

what are you guys using to block of the heater core lines on the motor its self?
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Old Aug 4, 2006 | 09:17 PM
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Default Re: Heater line block off (silentdaredevil2)

checker has some plugs don't remember off hand what size but they fit perfectly...
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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what is checker?
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 11:32 AM
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Default Re: Heater line block off (cjb92)

oh, guess you might not have it there. It is a parts store here on the West coast... Any well stocked parts store should carry these plugs..
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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Default Re: Heater line block off (cjb92)

On a b-series head, you can use a rocker arm plug, its the same thread pitch and diameter.

The part is # 1

and the part # is 12208-PR3-000 , $3.14

As far as the rear, like stated, use a cap off plug w/ a clamp.
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 06:10 PM
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so the one on the side of the head is removable?
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 05:28 PM
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Default Re: (silentdaredevil2)

Its the plug that allows you to remove the rocker arms.
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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no i meant the coolant port on the side of the head.
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 09:37 PM
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Default Re: (silentdaredevil2)

y not just loop the coolant lines and put a restrictor in it? thats what I plan to do so the head won't overheat.
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 02:23 PM
  #10  
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thats a good idea but im going for the clean look, unless i could find a hose that tucks tight against the motor
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Old Aug 10, 2006 | 05:32 PM
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Default Re: (silentdaredevil2)

have caps welded on them. cappin them off is bad they can blow off under pressure
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Old Aug 12, 2006 | 03:30 PM
  #12  
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its a little late now my motor is back in
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Old Aug 12, 2006 | 03:31 PM
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Default Re: (silentdaredevil2)

I already stated what needed to be done, you remove the fitting on the head, and install the other fitting that I showed you. And wa-la you don't even need a cap
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 01:07 PM
  #14  
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yeah but what about the rear
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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Default Re: (silentdaredevil2)

I capped them off with 5/8" part store caps. A word of advice: the generic rubber caps seem to slightly start cracking after a couple of months--not enough to leak but I bet eventually the cracking would get deep enough to spring a leak. I have a cap on one of the ports marked EPDM on the outside. I am assuming the cap is made of EPDM which is a type of synthetic rubber--the one marked EPDM has no cracks whatsoever after over a year of use so try to look for those. The ones with no markings are garbage and will start cracking after a few months. Also, to the person who said it will overheat--all the heating system is is and exterior loop, it is not integral to the performance of the motor. Drag racers and gt-4 and gt-5 road racers (which run long and hard enough to prove if it was problematic to cooling which has proven to not be) have been running caps or welded off ports for years and it is pretty proven to not effect running temperature. The only thing I could maybe see effecting running temp is the fact that your "second radiator" is gone (heater core) which will be the same weather you are capping off the lines or connecting them with a loop....When I first took out my heating/vent system I originally looped the conncectors together but I wanted to clean up the engine compartment so I capped them off--I haven't noticed any temp. difference between the two methods. If you are going to cap just remember to look for caps marked EPDM.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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Default Re: (d16dcoe45)

You use that plug for the head, and a cap on the rear. The plug will make it alot cleaner and stock looking.
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