head stud install
No. All I did was double nut the stud then just tighten them down hand tight with a 3/8" wrench. I've don't it like this 4 or 5 times and never had any problems. Make sure you have a 13 point deep well to tighten the head down. Just about every time I use a shallow it will bottom out and then have to run into town and buy a deep well.
Yup that's what I always do to, tighten down two nuts on each other and then torque them down... I always torque the studs into the block at 30ft/lbs. Good Luck
No. All I did was double nut the stud then just tighten them down hand tight with a 3/8" wrench. I've don't it like this 4 or 5 times and never had any problems. Make sure you have a 13 point deep well to tighten the head down. Just about every time I use a shallow it will bottom out and then have to run into town and buy a deep well.
yeah..i was wondering the same thing but didnt say anything earlier...i was under the impression that you just hand tighten (with your fingers) the studs then slap the head on and torque down the nuts..???
The instructions say to install them hand tight, and hand tight only.
But, quite a few people double-nut and torque them down. I did mine at 10lb*ft, but I think if I had to do it again, I'd use 7lb*ft with a 3/8" in*lb torque wrench instead of the bigger lb*ft torque wrench.
The point of torquing them down is to ensure that the studs are seated all the way down into the block, to minimize the risk of the nut bottoming out and not being able to hold the head with enough compression force to prevent blow-by or fluid leakage.
Forgot to mention taht you should go through a tightening/loosening sequence twice before performing the final torque down. This will stretch the studs beforehand.
[Modified by IN VTEC, 10:02 PM 3/4/2003]
But, quite a few people double-nut and torque them down. I did mine at 10lb*ft, but I think if I had to do it again, I'd use 7lb*ft with a 3/8" in*lb torque wrench instead of the bigger lb*ft torque wrench.
The point of torquing them down is to ensure that the studs are seated all the way down into the block, to minimize the risk of the nut bottoming out and not being able to hold the head with enough compression force to prevent blow-by or fluid leakage.
Forgot to mention taht you should go through a tightening/loosening sequence twice before performing the final torque down. This will stretch the studs beforehand.
[Modified by IN VTEC, 10:02 PM 3/4/2003]
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I did mine to 10 ft-lb with the double-nut method.
People who do finger tight sometimes have problems with the studs backing out. Also, at finger tight only, the studs were not all sitting at the same height.
Sonny
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