Getting Head Off Block
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the bolts....and lift it off. No prybar required.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know to remove all the hardware, wiring, etc.. it just doesn't wanna come off.
I know to remove all the hardware, wiring, etc.. it just doesn't wanna come off.
Sometimes the dowels can be a little corroded and can stick a little.You don't want to pry between the head and the block.Try putting two head bolts back in about three or four treads and tap the head with a soft (plastic) hammer on the end of the head.The bolts will keep it from flying off when it breaks free.Take one more look to make sure all the bolts are out.
Glenn
Glenn
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id try getting a big rubber hammer and beating it off. i guess its possible you either have some sort of corrosion or maybe some sort of adhesive holding that thing on. if it still refuses to budge after 40 or so good whacks your on your own.
of course something bad can happen doing this but at least its not a terribly expensive engine.
of course something bad can happen doing this but at least its not a terribly expensive engine.
I don't understand why it's being such a PITA. Everything is removed from what I've read and been told. The fact that it has 175,XXX on the original gasket could probably be a good factor but still. Would anyone reccomend using a dead blow hammer (plastic with sand inside the head) because all the rubber mallet does is bounce off.
I would like prying to be a last resort!
I would like prying to be a last resort!
never tried it but maybe if you turned it over a few times with the starter it might pop off. drop some of the bolts down in their holes like someone suggested so the head doesnt slide right off and turn it over a few times. its possible the compression will be enough to break it loose.
cams in would probably be best so you get only compression and not a powerful vacuum in other cylinders. at the least i would remove the spark plug from 2 and 3 or 1 and 4 if you dont have your cams in.
would be an interesting experiment either way and probably a less harsh then a pry bar
Modified by postalrat at 12:10 PM 8/9/2005
cams in would probably be best so you get only compression and not a powerful vacuum in other cylinders. at the least i would remove the spark plug from 2 and 3 or 1 and 4 if you dont have your cams in.
would be an interesting experiment either way and probably a less harsh then a pry bar

Modified by postalrat at 12:10 PM 8/9/2005
man, get a rubber mallet and just start smacking the **** form all sides for 5 min, mine came off easily but for a friends z6 we had to smack it a bit to get the dowels a little loose
DO NOT PRY IT
You will most likely scratch the **** out of the block if you can even get a place to pry from
I would never resort to that, get a friend if you have one ot try and lift and shake the **** back and forth while you are hitting it with the hammer
will work
DO NOT PRY IT
You will most likely scratch the **** out of the block if you can even get a place to pry from
I would never resort to that, get a friend if you have one ot try and lift and shake the **** back and forth while you are hitting it with the hammer
will work
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