Fuel to Ignition fuse issues need help..
I have a 2000 GSR teggy running a precision t03 ar.60 turbo with Injector doctor 650cc injectors and a walbro fuel pump. The problem im having is that when i turn the key to start the car it blows the 15a F/I (fuel to ignition) fuse. The problem got worse from now. Normally when i put the key in the ignition and turn it to start the car i would hear the fuel going to the engine but now it doesn't make a sound. I'm guessing the wire is touching the ground or a shortage is happening. Anyone has any info on this particular problem maybe a wiring diagram on how to follow the wire.
"it blows the 15a F/I (fuel to ignition) fuse" ???
What is the "fuel to ign. fuse" what is the fuse number and where is it located?
By the sounds of it, [15A fuse] it is the main power fuse for the PGM-FI Main Relay and it is located in the engine bay fuse box and should be "hot at all times" because it blows after you turn on the ign. it would indicate the problem is the PGM-FI Main Relay or after the relay, it is power for the fuel injectors, the ECU/ECM a few engine sensors/solenoids, it is also trigger for the fuel pump relay.
So questions...
Is the fuse in the engine bay fuse box?
Is the fuse hot at all times?
Does it blow when ign. is turned to run or when turned to start?
Do you have a multimeter or 12V test light? 94
What is the "fuel to ign. fuse" what is the fuse number and where is it located?
By the sounds of it, [15A fuse] it is the main power fuse for the PGM-FI Main Relay and it is located in the engine bay fuse box and should be "hot at all times" because it blows after you turn on the ign. it would indicate the problem is the PGM-FI Main Relay or after the relay, it is power for the fuel injectors, the ECU/ECM a few engine sensors/solenoids, it is also trigger for the fuel pump relay.
So questions...
Is the fuse in the engine bay fuse box?
Is the fuse hot at all times?
Does it blow when ign. is turned to run or when turned to start?
Do you have a multimeter or 12V test light? 94
1- Could be yellow/white , injector relay input power, hot at all times.
2- Could be black/yellow or yellow/green, injector. relay control power, hot in run & start.
3- Could be blue/white, back-up power for fuel pump relay control, hot in start/cranking only.
On the 94-97 the #2 power lead, [hot in run and start] is a 15A fuse, on the GSR it is a 20A fuse.
On the 94-98 the #1 fuse, [hot at all times] is a 15A fuse.
What I need to know is if the fuse that is blowing is the number 1, 2 or 3 fuse, you will need a meter or test light to tell.
Knowing exactly what fuse blows will narrow down what the problem may be, by a lot.
"it blow the 15a FI E/M fuse" does not help much, it could be either the hot at all times or the hot in run and start fuse. 94
So the PGM-FI Main relay is under the hood in the fuse box or ........
The main relay i changed is located in the driver side under the dash........
From my understand this sounds like its mostly the problem.
3- Could be blue/white, back-up power for fuel pump relay control, hot in start/cranking only.
the car cranks but it won't start because is not getting fuel.
If possible i can take pictures of the fuse box and point out the fuse that keeps blowing when i turn the key to start the car.
The main relay i changed is located in the driver side under the dash........
From my understand this sounds like its mostly the problem.
3- Could be blue/white, back-up power for fuel pump relay control, hot in start/cranking only.
the car cranks but it won't start because is not getting fuel.
If possible i can take pictures of the fuse box and point out the fuse that keeps blowing when i turn the key to start the car.
Last edited by humturbo; Aug 3, 2009 at 06:59 PM. Reason: n
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The PGM-FI Main Relay, [also known as the main relay] is located under dash drivers side.
Just use a test light on the blown fuse, one side of fuse will still have power, either at all times, when ign. switch is in run or start or only when cranking to start.
Any one of the above fuse may only blow when trying to start engine. 94
Just use a test light on the blown fuse, one side of fuse will still have power, either at all times, when ign. switch is in run or start or only when cranking to start.
Any one of the above fuse may only blow when trying to start engine. 94
I found the problem .... its with the wiring on my injector resistor or even the injector resistor itself. Any good websites or advice on how to fix the problem or maybe replacing it.
Last edited by humturbo; Aug 6, 2009 at 10:10 AM.
Replace it, is your 2000 GSR even supposed to have the injector resistor, or it it there because of the 650cc injectors?
What is the make and model of the injectors? 94
What is the make and model of the injectors? 94
Sorry, my computer crashed, had to wait till I got to work this morning.
So the problem is no power at the injectors?
Is there power on the injector output of the PGM-FI Main Relay, before the resistor pack?
Is the resistor pack added because of the new 650cc injectors? 94
So the problem is no power at the injectors?
Is there power on the injector output of the PGM-FI Main Relay, before the resistor pack?
Is the resistor pack added because of the new 650cc injectors? 94
i have the same exact problem, with DSM 450cc injectors and 10 ohms 10 watts resistor, the only difference is that mine starts but die after like 20 minutes, Could it be the same problem??
ok, i've removed the fuse and checked the voltage at the fuse and i get 12V, which i presume is correct because the system is hot at all time right. I unplugged the ground terminal of the battery and checked for voltage between the battery pole and the the cable and i get 12V (i've seen on Scotty Kilmer video that this means their is a short, so i unplugged the fuses one by one under the hood fuse box and there was still 12V) does that mean their is a short in the circuit, or could it be my alarm system or whatever?? i've checked the thermostat, tranny and valve cover ground and they are all good.
Second thing, i've bought a resistor box and checked the resistance between the power input and the output and i got 6ohms everywhere. The resistors i bought were 10 ohms 10watts and they cost me 35 cents each. Could the fact that the resistor box is 6ohms mean i should get 6ohms resistors? I got 10.6 ohms reading between 3 of the injector clips and 10.2 for the fourth one.
Third and final thing, is that i've put the key to ign2 to prime the fuel pump and seen that it rises to 43psi and slowly decreases (i have a small leak). Could that be creating the short since the pump tries to constantly keep the system at 43psi and since there is a leak it as to pump more so it heats the system??
Thanks for your help guys
Second thing, i've bought a resistor box and checked the resistance between the power input and the output and i got 6ohms everywhere. The resistors i bought were 10 ohms 10watts and they cost me 35 cents each. Could the fact that the resistor box is 6ohms mean i should get 6ohms resistors? I got 10.6 ohms reading between 3 of the injector clips and 10.2 for the fourth one.
Third and final thing, is that i've put the key to ign2 to prime the fuel pump and seen that it rises to 43psi and slowly decreases (i have a small leak). Could that be creating the short since the pump tries to constantly keep the system at 43psi and since there is a leak it as to pump more so it heats the system??
Thanks for your help guys
That's not what I asked.
What I need to know is, with the ign. switch on, [run] is there power at the injectors?
Was the resistor pack added because of the new 650cc injectors? 94
What I need to know is, with the ign. switch on, [run] is there power at the injectors?
Was the resistor pack added because of the new 650cc injectors? 94
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