ok first off my car is an original 1992 gsr with the b17a1. Now my problem is that the main fuse in the fuse box keeps popping as soon as i turn the key to prime the fuel pump. This is the fuse that is in the top right corner of the fuse box under the driver side dash. If the car sits for a week or so the car will run fine but eventually the fuse will pop while your driving and as soon as you put another one in and give the car power to prime the fuel pump the fuse pops. Also I noticed when the fuse pops the battery light is no longer on(but i soon as you put a new fuse in the battery comes on then right back off due to the fuse popping), just check engine and oil. Also when this fuse pops the fuel pump does not prime. I have tried different main relays from integras that run with no problems. Please help me as I am stuck. All input appreciated.

 

This is def an electrical problem as you prob already know...this is how I would try and diagnose the problem...

Start in the engine bay and visually inspect all wires and grounds..check the fuse box in the engine bay, make sure the fuses and wires are getting power as they should..use a test lights...

Once you know that the engine bay fuses and wires are properly functioning then move from the main relay to the fuel pump, focus on those two items..

Check the fuel pump, make sure everything is properly grounded, take out the actual Fuel pump and check to make sure the ground is good and the wires are still in tach and not broken...If that checks out.then follow the wires from the FP to the main relay..

Hope that helps...buy a test light

 

ok after further research the fuse that i keep popping is fuse #24 alternator solenoid valve. This would explain why the battery light goes away and no start. Now i also heard there is a wire that comes from the alternator to fuse kick panel, which grounds out the alternator. Does anyone know exactly where this wire connects on the alternator? could it be the wire or the alternator itself? The car will only start right back up after running, once you let it sit for a few hours no start. thanks again fellas.

 

http://downloads.hondatech.info/Auto...e%20Manual.zip

download the helms manual, and start checking for continuity/discontinuity/shorts to ground
there are full wiring schematics of the whole car
go to the charging system or power distribution section of the manual

 

Fuse 24 -15A, [hot in run and start] is power for "Charging System Light" and "Alternator Exciter", [IG@ alt.- black/yellow] it's what turns on the alt.

Fuse 24 is also PGM-FI Main Relay control lead, [fuel injector coil] and fuel pump power, [through fuel pump relay] also powers "Purge Gas Cut-Off solenoid Valve, Pressure Regulator Cut-Off Solenoid Valve and Electronic Air Control Valve

My guess is voltage regulator circuit has a short, although it could be any of the above that are also powered by fuse 24, by process of elimination I would start by de-pinning the black/yellow at the alt. and use a jumper to supply power directly from the batt., [through 15A fuse] to the alt., if fuse still blows, reconnect alt. and move jumper to the terminal with the black/yellow lead at the PGM-FI Main Relay and so on until it is the fuse in the jumper that blows, whatever the jumper is powering when fuse blows is the shorting component. 94

 

I know this thread is older than my drivers license, but did you ever find out the issue?