i'm thinking about getting some, probably the arp since i heard skunk2 sux. i dont need them but i jus thought it might be nice to have. and i can run slick one of these days. jus curious as to one thing. how do u install them? probably sounds stupid to all u specialists in here but i have no idea how in the world to install them.

 

I have the Skunk2 studs...

I have heard of people saying they suck and they break and yadda yadda, but i found all that out after I had got them. I have had no problems with them, but I am also not putting extreme stress on them as my SOHC motor is such a screamer

The ARP ones i avoided cuz i heard of having to drill the rotor holes bigger and I didn't wanna deal with all that. I took my front knuckles off and rear trailing arms off and dropped them off at the auto shop. The studs have to be pressed on. The shop charged me $80 to press on and tach weld all 16 studs...

Make sure the auto shop doesn't mess up the front wheel bearings during the press work. Those bearings are not cheap




[Modified by Chris83179, 12:02 AM 9/6/2002]

 

whats the reasoning behind getting extended wheels studs?

just curious

 

You need them to run drag slicks. the rims are so thick that u need longer studs to have adequate space for the lug to hold on to

 

So how much longer are the Skunk2 wheel studs compared to stock? I'm also planning on getting some this winter! Thanks!

 

well, i am not sure, but i could measure them i guess if you REALLY want me to...

since my car is on jack stands with no wheels, it wouldn't be too hard...

 

if i were to get wheel studs i'd get the ones ARP makes.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=201846

 

I use the Smelly ones on my GSer... I love them. One very important thing is that you must remember to Die cutter them before trying to put the aluminum/magnesium nuts on. With the coating that skunk uses, it makes them very slighty over sized. Plus you need a press for the front'sto seperate the wheel bearing out of the hub
Peace
Schu

 

Not true.
I had ARP studs installed on some EG knuckles a little while ago. The splines on ARP studs ARE definitely bigger than the stock splines and don't fit perfectly in the hub all the way; The studs just need to be pounded into the hub with a little more muscle, and they'll fit perfectly in the hub.

The ARP studs are about the length of 2 stock studs stacked on top of each other.

 

Cooh, thanx for the info Katman...

 

np

 

ive had the skunk2's for months now and have changed out the tires for slicks many times and have had not a single problem with them. i just put a little moly lube on the studs before putting the bolts on and they go on and off without a problem. They seem to be holding up strong

 

the only thing with my studs is that they were once gold in color, as they are now silver... I like to switch rims alot...


[Modified by Chris83179, 10:00 PM 9/6/2002]

 

You can save some money by going to an autoparts store and buying Dorman 610-323 the are M12x1.5x54mm. Most autoparts stores sell Dorman wheels studs. This part is for a GM car that uses the same dimension and thread patter as the Honda stud, but its about 1/2 to 3/4 inch longer than stock. I think they cost about $1 each.

 

I'm using the ARPs now and they just require the persuasion of my 1/2" impact to put the bigger knurl into the honda hub. However, I did have the skunk2s, which are terribly over priced, and I had two strip out in the hub(the knurl stripped, not the hub) and I had to chop them out. Not very pleasant.

 

i've had wheel studs sieze up on me during and after track events. i wouldn't trust anything other than ARP.

 

I agree 100%

 

The skunk2 studs work fine, just as long as you rethread them. They'll still work if you don't but you'll have a hard time lugging and unlugging your lugs. Only bad thing I can see about them is that they are pricey. Also tack weld any extended lugs you get as well

 

i like my arp's also.

 

I going to put some exteneded studs on too, last track event I put two wheels off and a couple laps latter, I noticed some vibration but didn't know what it was. I pulled into the pits thinking I had a flat. I checked and no flat, but three of the four lugs were loose. I figure any extra length of the studs would give you that much more time before the nuts unthreaded all the way off. scarry situation.

 

ARP is the way to go

 

ARP

 

I use H&Rs on the CRX.

Haven't had a chance to actually run them, but they are on there none the less.

 

Yes, I can drive to summitracing which sells the ARP no need to pay shipping.

If they are strong enough for a Corvette they should be strong enough for my CRX.