Can regular bolts from the hardware store be used in conjunction with the exhaust springs? I need to disconnect my manifold an the bolts are rusty and will not be able to be used anymore

 

If you find washers big enough to hold the other end of the spring to the bolt, it shouldn't be an issue, a lot of people do that because of the same issue your having. Local hardware store will have what you need.

 

ok great. so it is just a bolt with a washer to compress the spring. I am unfamiliar with spring bolts and didn't know if i needed something special to make it works.

thanks for your help

 

Those bolts not only have a wide flange for the spring, they also have a shoulder to tighten against.

I've used a long 'normal' bolt, with fender washer to hold the spring, but also need to double-nut it to take the place of the flange at that end. It works, but you sorta need 5 hands to get it all assembled together.

 

ok thanks I don't fully understand where you are saying i need a second nut but hopefully it all makes sense when i take ti apart. Thanks for your help

 

The factory bolt doesn't have threads all the way along. There's a shoulder that you tighten against so you can't compress the spring down to nothing. A normal bolt has nothing to stop you from doing that. You'll be able to figure it out when you have the parts in your hands.

 

ahh I got ya thanks alot. Hope things go smoothly. Stupid leaky oil pan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by huge230 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... Stupid leaky oil pan</TD></TR></TABLE>
Look upwards at each corner of the block where the oilpan installs. At the front end there's the oil pump sealed against the block. At the back end there's the rear main seal holder, sealed against the block. Make sure it's really the oilpan gasket that leaks. Maybe the real leak is where these components bolt up to the ends of the block?

Some oilpan gaskets have little steel rings embedded in the rubber gasket, to reinforce the bolt holes. Make sure none of these remain stuck to the underside of your engine or to your oilpan.

Use just a tiny bit of HondaBond (or grey permatex) where the oilpump & rear seal holder join at the corners of the oilpan gasket surface. If you use too much, it lubricates the oilpan gasket allowing it to squirm out of position. Don't overtighten the oilpan bolts. It's real easy to make the gasket squirm around, then it'll leak.

 

I used ITR inner valve springs and regular bolts on my exhaust, worked fine.