Hello everyone I'm new here so excuse my lack of knowledge. I'm have an issue understanding what motor I truly have. I bout my motor from hmotoronline great People btw. but the motor is a d16a block with a d16y8 head for so I thought until took the valve cover off and seen it looked like the y5 with vtec-e. But yet my head has the P2j -7 code with 97 on the right and if I'm not mistaken that's a y8 head. So that's all I know plz help me out if you can and correct all my possibly mislead info. Thank you.

 

The Y5 and Y8 use the same head casting. The only difference is the cam and rocker assembly. If it has rollers and no LMA's it's a Y5.

 

Oh okay then I definitely have the y5 because I don't have the LMA and I have the rollers. now I've heard the y5 isn't that great because it's set for fuel economy therefore has lack of power but I kinda disagree with the lack of power part because it definitely has power and the vtec has loud crossover and alot of pull. What do you think?

 

It is more eco minded but it doesn't really lack much power wise compared to the Y8. I want to say it's a 10HP difference.

It's a good engine for what it was intended, it just does it a little different.

 

Awesome. Thanks a lot man. I was a little disappointed as first but once I felt the power and then seen I was getting 48mpg. I have this in a 99 civic ej8 and it moves it pretty Damn good.

 

What do you think about it being on a JDM d16a block?

 

That's something I questioned from your OP but didn't mention. The P2J head casting is 96-00. The 4 digit block stamp implies a JDM short block. Most other regions have a 5 digit block stamp. That I've seen the OBD2 D's are either D15B's or D16Y's though there are smaller displacement versions like D14's and D13's. There are also JDM SOHC ZC's that are 1.6L but they're stamped ZC.

The D16A on the block, to me implies the the head or block were swaped at some time before importing here.

What ECU are you running it on and did you get it with the swap?

HMO is a legit company so I doubt there's any knowingly done "funny stuff".

Any chance you could post some pictures of this engine showing the castings and stamps as well as over all close ups? I'm curious.

 

Yeah USDM engines have 5 digits and ending with a number and JDM is 4 ending in a letter right? I'm running the stock 99 civic ECU. I knowingly bout it from hmotoronline swapped. they told me it was a d16a long block with a y8 head but given what I found its a y5 head. I'll post photos tomorrow.

 

 

At least I was right about something lol. I'm running p2p ecu. I'm not sure how to post photos of here. I could tell you all the codes I have if you tell me witch ones your looking for or you can tell me how to post photos.

 

So is the d16a block not has good as the stock p2j block?

 

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1397834222

 

This is why it it seems to pull strong, as you said, in the upper rpm's. It's the wrong ecu for the head. Your head is VTEC-E vs. VTEC. They operate different and your engine is "choking" at lower rpm before the cross over. Look up the two types and maybe you'll understand.

Do you not have a CEL on for the knock sensor and CKF?


The block is fine. The only "major" differences is some of the early D16A's had steel main caps instead of the more common aluminum. OBD0 D16's had the fan switch on the back of the block by the oil filter intead on the thermostat housing like newrer versions. Everthing inside and outside the block like crank, rods, pistons, oil pump etc. are interchangable but there are differences in those.

 

Will it mess anything up if I continue to use this ECU? Why I ask is because it runs really smooth but sometimes it's Idles a little to low but for the most part it Idles good. The only check engine light I have is for the o2 sensor and that's because the idiot that owned it before me cutt the bank 2 sensor out. The motor has the knock sensor and the crank sensor.

 

Is it okay to run the p2p ecu with the y5 head?

 

It's not going to physically hurt anything. The two systems on the Y5 and Y8 are completely different. It's just not operating the way it was intended.

 

Okay great. I'm gonna run it till I get my old y8 head Rebuilt. So I'm pretty much making the y5 run like the y8? Oh and I called hmotoronline and Steve said that it's the original d16a head from Japan and it's not vtec-e it's vtec and tried to explain to him that it was a y5 vtec-e and he just got mad and pissy with me.

 

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1397953178

It's definitely vtec-e

 

No. The two systems are physically and operationally different. The Y5 has a much lower switch over rpm. It's still running like a Y5 but switching over at roughly double the rpm it was designed for.