I don't think the cr racing thermostat/check valve would be the best solution after talking with C/R.... Not the right application and space considerations being the problem....

I'm going to order an autometer PRO-LITE WARNING LIGHT SENDERS
3246 / Water temp. sender 187°-203°F

which could be used as the "electrical gate" instead of a warning light ... hopefully it will work well with 12 volts at 3-8 amps pull...

... otherwise I'll play around with the CSI guage some more ...

Thanks 1fastvx for the suggestion ...

Thanks Bigmoose for your suggestions also... may have to apply them if the autometer sender doesn't work ...

 

Hey I dunno how but I stumbled upon this thread. Good reading. I was thinking about electric water pumps a year or so ago. Does anyone have any experience with any setup in a roadrace car?

 

I'm with you. a bypass would be the best solution. all you need to do is have a relief valve set for whatever pressure the pump can safely pump without overheating, but more than is ever required to pump water through the engine. the relief valve could be as simple as a spring loaded ball check valve going from the pump outlet to the pump inlet. When the thermostat is closed, pressure builds and the relief valve opens (allowing fluid bypass). honestly I'm surprised the pump doesn't come this way from the factory. Telling the buyer they have to drill holes in their thermostat is pretty lame IMO

 

here's a discussion Mike started...

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...PagePosition=1

 

what if you removed the stock thermostat completely, installed the water pump on the lower radiator hose, installed shu's thermostat <U>http://www.crracing.com/estore/partdesc.cfm?category=therm</U> just after the pump, and routed a bypass hose from the racing thermostat to the upper hose just before it enters the head? wouldn't that solve the problems of air pockets by keeping the water in the block circulating? and also wouldn't it keep the throttle body and heater in that loop? that way it would be like the stock water pump is still there pumping water constantly and you wouldn't have to worry about overcooling or overheating on the highway, right?

 

Im interested in doing an electric water pump myself. Was a solution ever found?

 

I gave up guys ... I tried many different methods either mechanically or electrically to no avail.... they either did not work , weren't consistant enough , or pose long term reliability concerns ... I even spoke with the head tech at c/r racing ... their check valve/ thermostat is not the solution ....

Here is the answer , an on/off switch connected to 12 v acc, fused before the electric pump , the way mezierre intended ...

I'm going to sell the electric water pump, only used intermitently for a few months in perfect condition if I have any takers ....
I'll sell the
1 - electric water pump , dummy plate , wiring , and instructions (mez wpk500 / 349.99 new)

2 - chrome radiator hose piping pre-cut for a b18 engine with aluminum covers (sold at summit for 135.95)

both for 300 shipped instead of 485.94 priced through summit....

Maybe someone else will have better luck .... It is probably better suited for someone with Forced induction who is producing more heat ...

 

The electric water pump is best suited for imho..
1) Track car
2) Forced induction when the engine is severly overheating
3) I have seen it even used to circulate the water in a air-water intercooler succesfully for the resevoir...

 

Why don't you get a thermostat for an electric fan at autozone for $20. basically it has a **** that sets the temperature at which it turns on and off. I have that setup on the electric fans on my truck with no problems whatsoever. It is exactly like the CSI only it is less complicated and very reliable with no interference or anything. A hell of a lot cheaper too.

 

i recently put a meizier on my car, with the correct size holes drilled, my engine warms up quick and stays in the stock heat range fine, although it reads warm, my heat is basically non-existant. I'm also thinking of selling mine for stock water pump again and having some heat when it comes winter time. I also swear I smell coolant when I turn the car off like it's burning it somewhere, but no leaks around my hose connections. I'm being paranoid though because I only have 200 miles on my motor since it's rebuild.