Does anyone know how to strip paint
The previous owner of my 94tegls must have painted the body like 3 different colors. the first layer is yellow,then blue,then white. The body color of my car is brownish white. Is there a way to remove several shades of the paint by hand? I did a search and I couldn't find anything.
Any help would be deeply appreciated
Any help would be deeply appreciated
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iam7head »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wear a thick glove when you use it..it burns your skin like acid</TD></TR></TABLE>
ha i also use it to get grease off my hands
ha i also use it to get grease off my hands
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i believe they are referring to the aerosol cans that they sell now. (i work at a large automotive paint supply company, we got it all!lol) a lot of the body shops we serve use that stuff and i've used it to strip paint off of paint guns i've rebuilt. works as good as the big jugs and it's cleaner to use.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HavokRacing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe they are referring to the aerosol cans that they sell now. (i work at a large automotive paint supply company, we got it all!lol) a lot of the body shops we serve use that stuff and i've used it to strip paint off of paint guns i've rebuilt. works as good as the big jugs and it's cleaner to use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what doe you mean by aerosol cans? Are you talking about the Aircraft Paint remover? How much stuff would i need to strip the whole car, besides carbon fiber hood for my 94 ls? Can you give me a rough estimate. I know I should really get off my butt and got find out myself. Only I can't I am no where near the USA!!!
You can try Marhyde Tal-Stip II, it's a Bondo company. This is an Aircraft coating remover.
I've used it to strip down 10 year old paint and clear coat off some wheels before. It's like thick bluish paste. I used two coats of that stuff and it stripped the wheels down to bare metal.
It comes in three sizes, the largest size is a 1 gallon jug. 1/3 was enough for my wheels.
You would probabbly need a lot more to stripp a car body! Your best bet is sandblasting with something like walnut shells or plastic beads.
I've used it to strip down 10 year old paint and clear coat off some wheels before. It's like thick bluish paste. I used two coats of that stuff and it stripped the wheels down to bare metal.
It comes in three sizes, the largest size is a 1 gallon jug. 1/3 was enough for my wheels.
You would probabbly need a lot more to stripp a car body! Your best bet is sandblasting with something like walnut shells or plastic beads.
I've never used the Marhyde, but the pasty, jelly-ish removers do work a lot better. I stripped a car using "Rock Miracle", probably pretty similar stuff. The aftermarket paint basically fell off and the initial factory layer only needed some light scraping.
I'm not sure I'd strip a CF hood with any of these chemicals. Test it on a very small area on the underside of the hood first.
I'm not sure I'd strip a CF hood with any of these chemicals. Test it on a very small area on the underside of the hood first.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g unit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aircraft paint stripper in a can
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd use this as well.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I'd use this as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RangerDan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can leave the car in a bad neighborhood they'll strip everything.
Sorry couldn't resist
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so stupid. you might think twice about what you say next time. who knows if your car might get jacked anytime soon
how much do those ac paint stripper cost? if anyone can quote a price on what they spent to strip there honda. so i can save up and actually buy this stuff. i heard it costs alot to get stripped professionally (sorry i have no access to a phone, dont ask me why either). are there any negative impacts from stripping with this ac paint remover in the can?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by takoek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can try Marhyde Tal-Stip II, it's a Bondo company. This is an Aircraft coating remover.
I've used it to strip down 10 year old paint and clear coat off some wheels before. It's like thick bluish paste. I used two coats of that stuff and it stripped the wheels down to bare metal.
It comes in three sizes, the largest size is a 1 gallon jug. 1/3 was enough for my wheels.
You would probabbly need a lot more to stripp a car body! Your best bet is sandblasting with something like walnut shells or plastic beads.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont think plastic beads or walnut shells off of the body of my car sound too good to me? do you?
Sorry couldn't resist
</TD></TR></TABLE>so stupid. you might think twice about what you say next time. who knows if your car might get jacked anytime soon
how much do those ac paint stripper cost? if anyone can quote a price on what they spent to strip there honda. so i can save up and actually buy this stuff. i heard it costs alot to get stripped professionally (sorry i have no access to a phone, dont ask me why either). are there any negative impacts from stripping with this ac paint remover in the can?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by takoek9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can try Marhyde Tal-Stip II, it's a Bondo company. This is an Aircraft coating remover.
I've used it to strip down 10 year old paint and clear coat off some wheels before. It's like thick bluish paste. I used two coats of that stuff and it stripped the wheels down to bare metal.
It comes in three sizes, the largest size is a 1 gallon jug. 1/3 was enough for my wheels.
You would probabbly need a lot more to stripp a car body! Your best bet is sandblasting with something like walnut shells or plastic beads.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i dont think plastic beads or walnut shells off of the body of my car sound too good to me? do you?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by genax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so stupid. you might think twice about what you say next time. who knows if your car might get jacked anytime soon
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sniff * sniff Im sorry. I had no idea my karma was so bad. And your humor was so shallow.
so stupid. you might think twice about what you say next time. who knows if your car might get jacked anytime soon
</TD></TR></TABLE>
sniff * sniff Im sorry. I had no idea my karma was so bad. And your humor was so shallow.
Actually, plastic beads, walnut shells, and some special blasting medias are perfect for car bodies. These blasting medias will only take off the paint not the metal underneath.
If you use sand, garnet or some of the more abrasive medas, then you will have to be VERY careful not to take off too much. It also leaves a pitted finish which doesn't look that great.
I wouldn't recommend doing this yourself if you have never sandblasted anything. I would call some of the places around your area or visit them if you dont' have access to a phone. It might end up cheaper if you get some pros to do it.
As for the price of these paint strippers. The Mar Hyde goes for $45CDN ($20USD) a gallon, and I've seen the aerosol cans for $12CDN ($8-9USD). For a car body, that has that many layers of paint, your gonna have to spend A LOT on chemical strippers, gloves, brushes, etc.....
If you use sand, garnet or some of the more abrasive medas, then you will have to be VERY careful not to take off too much. It also leaves a pitted finish which doesn't look that great.
I wouldn't recommend doing this yourself if you have never sandblasted anything. I would call some of the places around your area or visit them if you dont' have access to a phone. It might end up cheaper if you get some pros to do it.
As for the price of these paint strippers. The Mar Hyde goes for $45CDN ($20USD) a gallon, and I've seen the aerosol cans for $12CDN ($8-9USD). For a car body, that has that many layers of paint, your gonna have to spend A LOT on chemical strippers, gloves, brushes, etc.....
I'd recommend against using any form of stripper!! (but just for the information; Aircraft brand is the best I've ever seen)
The problem is that it softens stuff that you may not want touched. Things like a good prior bondo job or seam sealer. If you get it on bondo, you should remove all of it due to the fact that it will never re-harden.
Don't get it near a carbon fiber part! There are special strippers that can be used on fiberglass (think Corvette) and you would have to research that out.
Although it's never happened to me, I've heard stories of stripper hiding in seams and "weeping" out latter to damage a paint job!
My recommendation; buy a box of quality (3m) 220 (or 320) wet-or-dry sandpaper and go at it. (there are something like 25 sheets in a box) Use a lot of water! When the paper goes "flat", just get another piece. Dang, we are talking a Honda here and not a GMC van.
Buy a good sanding block.
Hook up the garden hose to a spigot (kitchen sink) where you can set the water temperature! I know this sounds silly, but after sanding for hours, luke warm water is like heaven compaired to cold water.
Plan on spraying a "sealer" on any section of metal that is exposed at the end of the day.
Over my many years, I've painted several cars and the sanding part is probably the easiest part of it all. If you think that it's too much work, then you should re-think the whole project. (I'm not trying to be snooty!!! Just BTDT)
Wes Vann
The problem is that it softens stuff that you may not want touched. Things like a good prior bondo job or seam sealer. If you get it on bondo, you should remove all of it due to the fact that it will never re-harden.
Don't get it near a carbon fiber part! There are special strippers that can be used on fiberglass (think Corvette) and you would have to research that out.
Although it's never happened to me, I've heard stories of stripper hiding in seams and "weeping" out latter to damage a paint job!
My recommendation; buy a box of quality (3m) 220 (or 320) wet-or-dry sandpaper and go at it. (there are something like 25 sheets in a box) Use a lot of water! When the paper goes "flat", just get another piece. Dang, we are talking a Honda here and not a GMC van.
Buy a good sanding block.
Hook up the garden hose to a spigot (kitchen sink) where you can set the water temperature! I know this sounds silly, but after sanding for hours, luke warm water is like heaven compaired to cold water.
Plan on spraying a "sealer" on any section of metal that is exposed at the end of the day.
Over my many years, I've painted several cars and the sanding part is probably the easiest part of it all. If you think that it's too much work, then you should re-think the whole project. (I'm not trying to be snooty!!! Just BTDT)
Wes Vann
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd recommend against using any form of stripper!! (but just for the information; Aircraft brand is the best I've ever seen)
The problem is that it softens stuff that you may not want touched. Things like a good prior bondo job or seam sealer. If you get it on bondo, you should remove all of it due to the fact that it will never re-harden.
Don't get it near a carbon fiber part! There are special strippers that can be used on fiberglass (think Corvette) and you would have to research that out.
Although it's never happened to me, I've heard stories of stripper hiding in seams and "weeping" out latter to damage a paint job!
My recommendation; buy a box of quality (3m) 220 (or 320) wet-or-dry sandpaper and go at it. (there are something like 25 sheets in a box) Use a lot of water! When the paper goes "flat", just get another piece. Dang, we are talking a Honda here and not a GMC van.
Buy a good sanding block.
Hook up the garden hose to a spigot (kitchen sink) where you can set the water temperature! I know this sounds silly, but after sanding for hours, luke warm water is like heaven compaired to cold water.
Plan on spraying a "sealer" on any section of metal that is exposed at the end of the day.
Over my many years, I've painted several cars and the sanding part is probably the easiest part of it all. If you think that it's too much work, then you should re-think the whole project. (I'm not trying to be snooty!!! Just BTDT)
Wes Vann</TD></TR></TABLE>
Before I do anything when i get back to the states. I will ask around (the pofessionals) and find out pricing for car paint stripping. If the price seems to high, i will do exactly what you recommend doing. I think it's the safest and easiest bet. I used to make and play around with metal and plastic model toys and remote control cars. Sanding wasn't difficult at all. I think harsh chemical agents in the other hand can be dangerous and very expensive. I will stick with the sanding and develop some arm muscle in the process of sanding
.
The problem is that it softens stuff that you may not want touched. Things like a good prior bondo job or seam sealer. If you get it on bondo, you should remove all of it due to the fact that it will never re-harden.
Don't get it near a carbon fiber part! There are special strippers that can be used on fiberglass (think Corvette) and you would have to research that out.
Although it's never happened to me, I've heard stories of stripper hiding in seams and "weeping" out latter to damage a paint job!
My recommendation; buy a box of quality (3m) 220 (or 320) wet-or-dry sandpaper and go at it. (there are something like 25 sheets in a box) Use a lot of water! When the paper goes "flat", just get another piece. Dang, we are talking a Honda here and not a GMC van.
Buy a good sanding block.
Hook up the garden hose to a spigot (kitchen sink) where you can set the water temperature! I know this sounds silly, but after sanding for hours, luke warm water is like heaven compaired to cold water.
Plan on spraying a "sealer" on any section of metal that is exposed at the end of the day.
Over my many years, I've painted several cars and the sanding part is probably the easiest part of it all. If you think that it's too much work, then you should re-think the whole project. (I'm not trying to be snooty!!! Just BTDT)
Wes Vann</TD></TR></TABLE>
Before I do anything when i get back to the states. I will ask around (the pofessionals) and find out pricing for car paint stripping. If the price seems to high, i will do exactly what you recommend doing. I think it's the safest and easiest bet. I used to make and play around with metal and plastic model toys and remote control cars. Sanding wasn't difficult at all. I think harsh chemical agents in the other hand can be dangerous and very expensive. I will stick with the sanding and develop some arm muscle in the process of sanding
.
Two other comments and a suggestion;
If you have the car "media" blasted, be real sure that the person doing it has done an import before. Somebody that is used to older American cars may tend to go too heavy and it can heat up and distort thin metal.
If having the car blasted; you should keep in mind that the media will hide in all sorts of areas and want to come out while spraying paint. Believe me on this!! I did a limited amount of sand blasting on my 64 Chevelle and sand was coming out of everywhere for quite some time!
The suggestion is that if doing wet sanding; get a section of junk garden hose and cut off the end fitting. This way you don't run the risk of having it chip the paint that you are working on. All you need is a section that is about 5 foot long that you can screw onto the normal hose.
Wes
If you have the car "media" blasted, be real sure that the person doing it has done an import before. Somebody that is used to older American cars may tend to go too heavy and it can heat up and distort thin metal.
If having the car blasted; you should keep in mind that the media will hide in all sorts of areas and want to come out while spraying paint. Believe me on this!! I did a limited amount of sand blasting on my 64 Chevelle and sand was coming out of everywhere for quite some time!
The suggestion is that if doing wet sanding; get a section of junk garden hose and cut off the end fitting. This way you don't run the risk of having it chip the paint that you are working on. All you need is a section that is about 5 foot long that you can screw onto the normal hose.
Wes
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