Problem is i have a code 9 and i want to measure the resistance of the dizzy but i dont know what terminals to ohlm out.

obd1 b16a
95 civic

 

bump

 

got a helm manual yet? that should point you to the right direction.

 

Anyone else.

 

i would just like someone to scan me a page with what terminals to ohlm out. thank you

 

Code 9 would be the CYP sensor in the distributor. On my '95 its the orange wire (shielded) & the white wire. You can look for broken/loose wires all the way back to the ECU. Or you can take off the distributor cap & look for broken stuff in there.

But it's more than just measuring resistance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeperciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got a helm manual yet? that should point you to the right direction.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

OFL from orange to white

 

IF you mean open-circuit, then get inside the distributor & look for a broken wire going to that sensor itself. I don't have the book with me, but it should probably be a measureable resistance, not open.

If the sensor itself is bad, I believe you can't buy it separate from the distributor?

 

If that particular sensor is bad, the entire distributor sub-assembly has to be replaced - you can swap over all the other internals though.

 

they won't sell just that sensor JimBlake

 

I dont think it is the distributor because the cel light comes on when the car warms up in the beginning of the day and later i go out maybe three or four hours later turn the car on and the engine is still cold but the cel pops up right away. i think it might be the senor wire to to ecu.

 

i have the same problem, with a obd 0 b16, i just bought a new distributer and its happening again.

 

Anyone else ever had this problem?

 

Well...here is kind of a long shot:

I've seen on more than a few occasions that distributors from AutoZone and the like tend to be 'bad' in some respect - whether it be a weak coil or igniter, just something.

I also know that when the bushing in the distributor begins to wear, it allows the shaft to vibrate and since the sensor wheels are mounted on this shaft, their signals begin to 'vibrate' as well - the ECU can't really make heads or tails of it, so a code pops up.

Now, I don't know whether your unit is a stock with a lot of miles or a 'new' unit from AutoZone - but since you say the code only pops up when its cold - perhaps the bushing shrinks enough from the cold which allows the shaft to vibrate but then warms up, expands back, and now no vibration.

Have you taken the distributor cap off - is there any red dust in there?

 

the light doesnt come on until the car has warmed up a little in the beginning of the day. after that it comes on everytime i turn the car on.

 

the same thing happens to me and the first time this happened i had had the wire dust so i knew it was shot but it is happening and there is no broken wire dust and after the code comes on car runs like ****, but if i reset the ecu it wont see it for a while and the car will run great untill like a day later when the code come back and car starts to bogg and choke on acceleration like its not running on all cylnders

 

and i used to run 17deg advanced timing but to see if that was causing it i run 15 deg. and it still happens

 

also when at an idle my tach that is wired to my distributer, the needle jumps all over it happens when driving too please help

 

bouncy tach= bad ignitor

 

My tach doesn't bounce and also have hesitation sometimes

 

Are B-Series Distributors interchangeable?

 

the vtec ones are, not the non vtec

 

It was the CYL Position sensor.