i finally got my PR3 ecu for my b16 motor. wired up the VTEC and started it up. of course i forgot about the knock sensor, so it read a code #23. i know its the knock sensor so i was wondering if i am causing my engine any harm by not having one. when driving it, the motor redlined at 7500 or so, and the vtec didnt really have the kick ive experienced with other peoples motors. would this be because of the lack of a knock sensor? any help would be appreciated.

 

How many o2 sensors are you running and where are they placed? Most times the reason a 1st gen b16a runs poorly is because the o2 sensors are'nt reading the right exhaust pulses. Proper location on a 4-2-1 manifold is the 4th(main) and 3rd(secondary)runner.


Also, about the ks, I don't believe the ecu goes into any kind of limp mode(evidenced by the fact you can still get into vtec). So I would'nt think this would cause any problems besides unchecked detonation, if any is occuring.

One reason you might be seeing a 7500 redline is because you have an automatic pr3 ecu... You should crack the case open and look for either an MT or AT on the board.

HTH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuikLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i finally got my PR3 ecu for my b16 motor. wired up the VTEC and started it up. of course i forgot about the knock sensor, so it read a code #23. i know its the knock sensor so i was wondering if i am causing my engine any harm by not having one. when driving it, the motor redlined at 7500 or so, and the vtec didnt really have the kick ive experienced with other peoples motors. would this be because of the lack of a knock sensor? any help would be appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Being that your KS isn't wired in, obviously its suggested you wire it in to clear the check engine light. You might notice slight in-n-out power hesistation in certain parts of your RPM range, this is due to not having the KS wired in. Nonetheless, the car is not in safe/limp mode as Hybridize stated, you're still able to get into VTEC. Don't worry though, having your KS not wired in, will not harm your engine.

Are you getting a code 19 w/your ecu as well as code 23? If so, then you have an AUTO PR3 which explains the 7500rpm redline.

If you're interested in having your ecu reprogrammed to MT/5-speed spec, hit me up (see link in sig). I can reprogram your PR3 ecu to MT and disable the knock sensor, vtec pressure swtich, 2nd 02 sensor, and speed limiter, making it easy for you to wire up vtec with only a single wire to the vtec solenoid. (this is obviously irrelevant since you have vtec wired in already, just some FYI)....
damn, is that a sales pitch or wut ? lol...

 

Hey, I'm using a 98 GSR ecu with my Ls/Vtec build-up. I'm not using a knock sensor and I hollowed out my cat so my secondary O2 sensor is all messed up (I also non-intentionally cut the wires on the O2 sensor and attempted to wire them back up). I'm not hitting Vtec I don't believe as there's no kick or noticeable boost in power. Is there any way that you could modify my ecu to ignore the knock sensor and the secondary O2 sensor? Thanks.

P.S. I'm only 45 mins from your location (Moorpark)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quiks66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, I'm using a 98 GSR ecu with my Ls/Vtec build-up. I'm not using a knock sensor and I hollowed out my cat so my secondary O2 sensor is all messed up (I also non-intentionally cut the wires on the O2 sensor and attempted to wire them back up). I'm not hitting Vtec I don't believe as there's no kick or noticeable boost in power. Is there any way that you could modify my ecu to ignore the knock sensor and the secondary O2 sensor? Thanks.

P.S. I'm only 45 mins from your location (Moorpark) </TD></TR></TABLE>

the only thing I can recommed for having your KS disabled is going the OBD1 route, meaning you'll need to buy an ecu jumper & OBD1 ecu (reprogrammed most likely).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the only thing I can recommed for having your KS disabled is going the OBD1 route, meaning you'll need to buy an ecu jumper & OBD1 ecu (reprogrammed most likely).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course reprogrammed by Katman <FONT SIZE="3">YEAH BABY!</FONT>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Of course reprogrammed by Katman <FONT SIZE="3">YEAH BABY!</FONT></TD></TR></TABLE>

CHYECH!

 

i have a DC header so the o2 sensor is at the end of that. the only code its throwing is #23. i will open it up later and check to see if its an AT ecu. im starting to think i got an auto b16, bc its an SIR 1 motor with an SIR 2 tranny, which had a brand new clutch disk installed. is there any way to check if i have an automatic b16 or not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by QuikLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a DC header so the o2 sensor is at the end of that. the only code its throwing is #23. i will open it up later and check to see if its an AT ecu. im starting to think i got an auto b16, bc its an SIR 1 motor with an SIR 2 tranny, which had a brand new clutch disk installed. is there any way to check if i have an automatic b16 or not?</TD></TR></TABLE>


The only real way to check if your engine is an Auto B16, is the camshafts and the ecu. The camshafts lobe profiles are super weak (the secondary & mid lobes are almost level/flush with each other) usually the mid-lobe height is higher/raised than the secondary lobe. You'll have to take the cams out and look down them to see what I'm talking about....damn i wish i had pics of this. The ecu, of course, would throw a code 19 for lock solenoid which is only found on Auto transmissions.