I have posted this in the EF section and in the FI portion, so I'd figure I'd try in the Tech/Misc as I haven't gotten any results.


Yes here we are with another Code 9 thread. I will try and explain everything the best I can.

Setup:
b16a with GSR cams
boosted inline pro kit

So the issue is my ECU is throwing Code 9 after I converted from obd0 to obd1 with a Xenocron conversion harness.

When I had bought the car, it has an obd0 b20 in it, no CEL ran great. Decided to boost the car when I converted to obd1. Threw code 9. Car ran great so it didn't really bother me. Ended up trading the motor for a b16 to one of my friends.

Installed b16, Code 9. My buddy got the b20 running, no code 9.

Today I have swapped out a dizzy that was known good other than the one that came with the motor. Still code 9. I opened up the dizzy itself made sure all connections were correct. Timing is spot on, double checked it twice now. I even switched out using another dizzy conversion harness thinking one of my wires is loose. Still same code. I also checked out the wire on the ECU, its butt connected but is very intact no wires showing. I also took off my ECU and switched it with a p05 converted to VTEC and has no issues running my friends turbo z6 motor without any codes showing.

Can anyone think of anything else this might be? I have read all the Code 9 issues and I have attempted to do everything they have to ensure it's fixed.


Any help would be appreciated. thanks

***UPDATE***

Bump back from the dead. Still working on this issue. Had a master tech for dodge come and check to make sure all the wiring is within specs using his multimeter and set of tools.

ECU pins are showing 374 ohms at the ECU pins as well as through the wires all the way up to the new distributor from Rywire.

Xenocron confirmed that the distributor wiring harness was put together properly.

I'v also bought a brand new td-44u distributor from Rywire and installed it resulting in the same. I'v reset the ECU each time I'v swapped out a part.

Have also tried a chipped obd1 p75/pr4 which gave the same code 9.

Anyone have anything at all? Could the resistance differ from when the car is running to when it's off?

 

could be a loose wire in the harness

 

I have tugged on all the wires at the distributor plug and at the ECU, they are in there securely.

Wouldn't lose wires give me bad resistance readings? It's reading 374 ohms at the new rywire dizzy and also on the ECU pins on the inside.

 

bump

 

With a multimeter check for continuity between ECM Connector B terminals B11 and distributor connector Orange wire Terminal D(engine wire harness side). Then check continuity between ECM connector B termial 13 and distributor connector White wire at terminal H. Terminal H can be seen by unplugging the distributor, looking into the engine wire harness side connector. With the Lock tang on top terminal H is lower right corner. The terminals from inside the connector look like this
DBCA
HGFE.

If you have changed ECU and Dizzy then your problem lies somewhere in those wires. Did you repin your engine wire harness for the OBD 1 dizzy connector or did you make/ buy a dizzzy jumper harness? If you find continuity on these terminals then check those two wires pin fitment to at obd 0 harness and 0-1 jumper harness. Have you tried a different jumper harness?

 

There is no continuity in the circuit at the dizzy the wires or at the ECU.

I bought a obd0 - obd1 conversion harness from xenocron.com I have even traced the conversion harness to make sure the CYP sensor goes in the correct spot.

I started up and checked the resistance of the circuit while the car was running, it fluctuates between 800 - 1000 ohms of resistance but obviously my digital multimeter cant keep up fast enough because the crank is moving at idle.

Thats the weird thing is all the wires are fine, they test out correctly for the resistance supplied in the Factory service manual. The dizzy plug shows 374 ohms as well as at the ECU pins on the board. The MPFI swap was done by the previous owner and ran fine obd0 but I converted to obd1 for boost. Nothing have changed with those wires.

The only thing I could think of is maybe interference from somewhere?

 

The orange and white wires are shielded wires? DO you see any of the shielding stripped abck and maybe contacting anything? I have seen ppl mistakenly take that shielding and ground it which is not correct. Is yours that way?
When you say there is NO continuity in the wires, the dizzy or the ECU I assume you mean there is no continuity to ground. I mean separately check each wires integrity.
Back to my OP there is something not correct on those two wires.

 

The way the person did the MPFI wiring is butt connected the orange and white wires coming out of the ECU using a trailer harness of sorts, the other 2 wires are used for the IACV, and are hooked up to the blu/grn and the blu/yel wires. The shielding for the wires is stripped back about 3 inches from where the harness splits off to go to the distributor.

The weird thing is that the car ran fine OBD0 and never threw any codes, as soon as I converted to obd1 thats when I started getting code 9.

 

@KWayRacing

I converted the dizzy plug using Xenocron jumper harness as well as the obd0 - obd1 ecu jumper harness. I do have obd0 stuff still. There is one I can borrow, which I have no tried to swap out, I guess thats the only thing I haven't tried to swap out. The reason I am kind of stuck is that everything matches the Factory Service specs as far as resistance in the wire and whatnot.

 

So tonight I tried and swapped out a known working obd0 to obd1 ECU conversion harness with the same result of Code 9 flashing. Anyone have any ideas before I remove the kit and just run NA and Obd0 which i know works fine.

 

There are only 3 things that can make code 9 Bad Dizzy, bad Ecu, bad wires. The blu'ylw and blu/grn should not be going to the IACV. You said that your car was already Mpfi'd when you went ODB 1 and that you did not disturb any connections that were already in place for MPFI and that you did not have code 9 before OBD1 conversion. You have changed ECUS, both ends of the jumper harness distibutors to no avail. THe only thing left is wiring or two same fault components. THe latter is unlikely but not impossible. I believe there is a glitch in the troubleshooting process. You don't have to pull your turbo off to convert back to OBD) for troubleshooting purposes only. I would convert back to OBD0 just for trouble shooting purposes. Just dizzy and ECU. ANything else just look past codes. I would troubleshoot using pin #s and not wire colors. A meter with continuity check is a must.

 

I was converting back so I could drive the car to Import Alliance next weekend.

The blu/ylw is connected to c2 and the blu/grn is in c1, I even tried to swap the wires to see if by some chance they were backwards. I tried running new wires to see if that would help, but I got ~380 ohms of resistance with the new wires in place.

I will have to do ao continity test tonight just to double check all of my work before i remove everything. Thanks for everyons help.

 

So today I converted the car back to obd0, using the stock injectors and my pw0 ECU, started the car, DID NOT THROW code 9. So we converted my friends b18 to obd1 using my conversion harnesses, car started and threw code 9, so figured out that the ECU conversion harness that I had purchased is no good.

 

Good I suspected the harness now you know I 'm just glad you figured it out.

 

Yeah thanks alot! Appreciate it!

 

No problem. Good work on sticking to it and figuring it out