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changing valves....need to go to machine shop??

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Old May 12, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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notnilc20's Avatar
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Default changing valves....need to go to machine shop??

I've been reading alot and a couple people have mentioned that after you change your valves you "should" take the head to a machine shop. WHat do they need to do to the head? I'm just going to change 2 exhaust valves...is it really necessary to have a machine shop do whatever they do to it?? Thanks in advance.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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kyden's Avatar
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Default Re: changing valves....need to go to machine shop??

why are you changing 2 valves? i would bring it to the machine shop to make sure the guide is still good.
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Old May 12, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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Default Re: changing valves....need to go to machine shop??

Not really alot of info here...whats your experiance with cylinder head work?
How to you know you only need to change two valves? are you planning on buying new valves and lapping them? is the head warped and need a resurface? are you just trying to be cheap? help us out
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Old May 13, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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Default Re: changing valves....need to go to machine shop??

OK sorry for the late reply....I don't have any head work experience.....I've done just about every other thing on a vehicle except mess with the inside of the head and block, however, that being said I am confident I can get it done. But just need advice which is why I'm here.

So....I'm changing two exhaust valves because when I looked at it the rocker arms on both exhaust valves #5 cylinder they aren't lining up perfectly with the little pin on the valve spring retainer. Also, I can see that the spring is not sticking out straight like the other valves and valve springs (it's bent downward ever so slightly which is why the rocker arm isn't lining up....so my guess is bent valve.....the others look perfect....that's why I'm changing just the two ex. valves.

Also, there are two other exhaust valves that are sticking and it's making a clicking noise when the engine is running. I turned the motor over by hand and saw the two other ex. valves that are sticking.....I plan to just clean it up really good and clean all the gunk and carbon build up when the head is off. Not trying to be cheap...but saving some money right now is definantly choice. If upon inspection I need to change more valves of course I will do so. Let me know your opinions and thanks in advance.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 12:16 AM
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Default Re: changing valves....need to go to machine shop??

OK, after getting the head off....I've removed the valves and it's easy to tell which ones are bent and which are still good. Only 2 exhaust valves were good.....so I'm going to replace 8 exhaust valves and only 1 intake valve needs replacing as the rest are perfectly straight and are being cleaned now. The valve seats are still in good condition, so I'll leave em in.

So my question is....after I get the new valves in what do I need to take it to a machine shop for? What will they do for it? I'm going to clean the head myself with some non abrasive cleaning tools and the like. I've heard people take their heads to machine shop and they clean it out really good but I don't know what else goes on at the machine shop....sorry to sound so ignorant...but I can't help it.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 02:14 PM
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Default Re: changing valves....need to go to machine shop??

The machine shop would do a 3 angle valve job to assure that the new valves seat 100%
You can lap the valves yourself with some compound and the fancy tool they sell. "suction cup on a stick" which will work but isn't the same as what they do. it's good praqctice though. You should measure stem to guide clearance though. The guide could be worn down and with a new valve the extra material could make the clearances off. This is something they would have to check because most people don't have acess to the $2000 tool.
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Old May 14, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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Default Re: changing valves....need to go to machine shop??

Originally Posted by sc34dc4
The machine shop would do a 3 angle valve job to assure that the new valves seat 100%
You can lap the valves yourself with some compound and the fancy tool they sell. "suction cup on a stick" which will work but isn't the same as what they do. it's good praqctice though. You should measure stem to guide clearance though. The guide could be worn down and with a new valve the extra material could make the clearances off. This is something they would have to check because most people don't have acess to the $2000 tool.

I looked up on the internet and found some good examples on lapping the valves...thanks...your response helped me alot.

Last edited by notnilc20; May 14, 2011 at 08:12 PM.
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