Champion Spark Plugs
Did a search, found nothing. So..
I'm running an LSVTEC w/ 12.3:1 compression ratio about, and I need a set of spark plugs. I'm looking for a copper plug, and one that has a colder heat range than stock. I went to the local Auto Zone, and the only copper plugs they had in stock are the Champion Rc12mc (the plug they showed for a 98+ Integra VTEC) I picked the plugs up but before I install them I was wondering if anybody used them and liked em. Can anybody tell me what heat range the plug is? Colder than a Denso Platnium which I'm running now?
I'm running an LSVTEC w/ 12.3:1 compression ratio about, and I need a set of spark plugs. I'm looking for a copper plug, and one that has a colder heat range than stock. I went to the local Auto Zone, and the only copper plugs they had in stock are the Champion Rc12mc (the plug they showed for a 98+ Integra VTEC) I picked the plugs up but before I install them I was wondering if anybody used them and liked em. Can anybody tell me what heat range the plug is? Colder than a Denso Platnium which I'm running now?
I work for a motorcycle parts distributor and we have a crapload of Champ plugs, probably good plugs. As for the heat range it sounds like theyre 12's, which is as cold as they get. At least as long as they read like our normal NGK plugs...
Example - BKR7ES-11 The 7 is the heat range, which is 2-12, the 11 is the gap. So I'm <U>assuming</U> yours are 12's.
Example - BKR7ES-11 The 7 is the heat range, which is 2-12, the 11 is the gap. So I'm <U>assuming</U> yours are 12's.
Out of curiosity I went to champs website, since the plugs read nothing like our ngks and all they say about them are
Resistor plug, 14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex head, projected core nose, copper core
nothing about heat range.
Resistor plug, 14mm, 3/4" reach, 5/8" hex head, projected core nose, copper core
nothing about heat range.
Uum I'm not really getting the whole copper thing but why not just get a set of ngks? they have a ridiculous set of heat ranges..
Why copper?
Why copper?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommytoes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uum I'm not really getting the whole copper thing but why not just get a set of ngks? they have a ridiculous set of heat ranges..
Why copper?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A lot of ngks are copper, copper are simply cheaper. Platinum last much longer but are usualyl more $.
Taken from bosch website
Q. How does platinum improve a spark plug?
A. Perhaps the greatest innovation in spark plug design over the years is “pure platinum” technology, combined with multiple electrodes. As early as the 1960’s engineers recognized the value that platinum added to automotive plugs: it provides improved corrosion and erosion resistance and imparts a longer performance life than the standard copper core center electrode plug design. The use of platinum not only broadens the heat range beyond that achieved with a copper core center electrode design, but also provides extremely consistent performance, a reliable spark and a longer performance life.
Why copper?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
A lot of ngks are copper, copper are simply cheaper. Platinum last much longer but are usualyl more $.
Taken from bosch website
Q. How does platinum improve a spark plug?
A. Perhaps the greatest innovation in spark plug design over the years is “pure platinum” technology, combined with multiple electrodes. As early as the 1960’s engineers recognized the value that platinum added to automotive plugs: it provides improved corrosion and erosion resistance and imparts a longer performance life than the standard copper core center electrode plug design. The use of platinum not only broadens the heat range beyond that achieved with a copper core center electrode design, but also provides extremely consistent performance, a reliable spark and a longer performance life.
Taken from http://www.sparkplugs.com
Heat range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
HTH
Heat range
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
HTH
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You are looking for a 59 heat range for that compression, or atleast a 61 for street driving. NAPA used to carry the Champion Racing plugs. I can find them if you cannot. I also use 9 and 10 NGK's The Champs are a better race plug but more expensive.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are looking for a 59 heat range for that compression, or atleast a 61 for street driving. NAPA used to carry the Champion Racing plugs. I can find them if you cannot. I also use 9 and 10 NGK's The Champs are a better race plug but more expensive.</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow, NGK 9 and 10 are hot plugs... I thought I would need something equivalent to NGK 6 range.
wow, NGK 9 and 10 are hot plugs... I thought I would need something equivalent to NGK 6 range.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
wow, NGK 9 and 10 are hot plugs... </TD></TR></TABLE>
9 and 10 is colder on NGK and denso standard
wow, NGK 9 and 10 are hot plugs... </TD></TR></TABLE>
9 and 10 is colder on NGK and denso standard
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZERO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">9 and 10 is colder on NGK and denso standard</TD></TR></TABLE>
So if 7 is a stock replacment plug (NGK), 8 or 9 might be the best choice for me? Know about Champion plug heat ranges?
So if 7 is a stock replacment plug (NGK), 8 or 9 might be the best choice for me? Know about Champion plug heat ranges?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The Champion number is c-59cx or c59c, the NGK cross is R5671a.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What exactly are those? Bah! I'm confused.
What exactly are those? Bah! I'm confused.
FYI: More sparkplug heat range cross reference
Heat Ranges
(HOT) 9, 14, 16, 20, 22, 24, 27, 31, 34, 37 (COLD)
Drop one heat range colder for every 8 pounds of boost or every 50 HP of nitrous.
Bosch----Champion---NGK--------Denso
8----------12, 11 ---------5 --------16
7, 6--------10, 9 --------- 6 --------- 20
5 ---------8, 7 ----------- 7 ----------22
4---------- 63, 61 ------- 8 ---------- 24
Heat Ranges
(HOT) 9, 14, 16, 20, 22, 24, 27, 31, 34, 37 (COLD)
Drop one heat range colder for every 8 pounds of boost or every 50 HP of nitrous.
Bosch----Champion---NGK--------Denso
8----------12, 11 ---------5 --------16
7, 6--------10, 9 --------- 6 --------- 20
5 ---------8, 7 ----------- 7 ----------22
4---------- 63, 61 ------- 8 ---------- 24
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