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CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion

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Old Mar 7, 2004 | 11:18 AM
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Ruby Civic's Avatar
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Default CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion

Everything went smoothly xpt I get the single code and obviously, no start.

the biggest trick was changing plugs wires to plug the obd0 harness from 91 civic Si into a new plug to mate with the obd1 distributor

Blown hatch has a diagram that sure made sense but this is the only change apart from the dizzy itself from Distributor King.....

the only two wires with different codes were (obd0 harness/obd1 dizzy):

big white/ blue
blue green/yellow green

Any ideas or help??
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Old Mar 7, 2004 | 11:19 AM
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Default Re: CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion (Ruby Civic)

ps: CEL 4 is CKP sensor according to my manual
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 05:17 AM
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Default Re: CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion (Ruby Civic)

ttt, anybody with a good source (= simple and to the point) on dizzy wiring?
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 09:33 AM
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Default Re: CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion (Ruby Civic)

ttt, anybody with the haynes or acura manual pages with pics of obd1 dizzy so that you can read wire colors????

thanks,
all
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 10:53 AM
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Default Re: CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion (Ruby Civic)

The easiest way to check your CKP wiring would be to continuity test with a voltmeter from the your new OBDI points (at the jumper pigtails) to the actually dizzy. The wiring for the CKP on the actual dizzy will be the blu/grn (+) and blu/yel (-), most likely the polarity is flipped or the actual lines are tracing out. The continuity test will tell you both. Did you buy your jumper or did you make it? This is basically what you want, the OBDI point B15 to have continuity with the blu/grn dizzy wire (CKPP) and B16 to the blu/yel wire (CKPM). If all the wiring checks out I would try swapping distributors (if you can), sometimes sensors just go out. Good Luck and let me know if you need anything else.
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 05:33 PM
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Default Re: CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion (Kataku2K3)

oky, will check as your input greatly appreciated and i am just learning this stuff....the dizzy is from Distributor King who advertises on these pages and i have not cracked it open to look at its wires yet...i did however reverse the yellow green and the blue yellow on my plug

i cannibalized the plug from an accord wiring harness that is almost exactly the same wire code and then soldered the wires to my obd0 engine harness but looks to be all good connections

i will tomorrow afternoon try the voltmeter approach and look at the internal dizzy wiring and report back
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 05:34 PM
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Default Re: CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion (Ruby Civic)

ps - same CEL 4 code with wires in either orientation when i switched them back and forth
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 05:47 PM
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Default Re: CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion (Ruby Civic)

Oh okay, well it probably doesn't have to do with polarity then. It'll be good after you continuity test it to make sure the CKP signal is making it's way back to the correct ECU pinout. If everything checks out good in the wiring I would try swapping ECU's and dizzy's if possible. How you did the wiring is totally cool, that's exactly how I do nonOBD-OBDI conversions. Here's Will's OBDI engine harness and nonOBD-OBDI jumper that I made about a month ago for his Rex, as you can see on the engine harness I just about always use a OBDII dizzy connector (only because I like the looks of a single plug). Let me know how everything goes.





Modified by Kataku2K3 at 9:21 PM 3/12/2004
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 03:09 PM
  #9  
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Default Re: CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion (Kataku2K3)

very nice looking harness...i am trying to figure out about checking continuity as i dont have a lot of crap to go with toolwise
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Old Mar 11, 2004 | 09:08 PM
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Default Re: CEL 4 Code After Obd0 to Obd1 Conversion (Ruby Civic)

Thanks, but anyways all you really need is a cheap digital voltmeter. You should be able to find one at any hardware/electronics store for ~$20.00. Just make sure it has a continuity setting (most do tho) and you'll be set. It's just the way I've always diagnosed problems and it seems easiest. Just wouldn't recommend feeding power through the lines and using a test light on the other end.
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