When installing a block guard, how far in should it be installed? Should it be flush with the deck or gasket surface or should it be lightly tapped in evenly about 4 or 5mm below the deck? Thanks

 

You need to check with the manufacturer.
Not to be a smart *** but I would tap it into the trash can. They just cause hot spots in the upper cylinder area and you need bracing down the whole cylinder (ie sleaves) to see a benefit.

 

I have a NuFormz block guard, and it's even with the deck. It was in the block when I bought it, and so I really dont have any idea as to the instructions.

Here's a closeup:


Bigger Pic:
http://www.a-ocs.com/GS-R/Stage%202/P73.jpg

Hope this helps!

 

i THINK it's suppose to be flat w/ the deck, i dunno for sure though, like sum1 else said, check w/ the manufacturer, and btw, screw wat that other dude said, i say get it and use it, it could be the difference between a cracked sleeve and a good motor!

 

I have the STR block guard in mine, it hasn't caused me any trouble. The more reenforcement, the better IMHO. I had the machine shop do mine, because when you tap them in, it squeezes the sleeves in a tad, not making the walls of the cylinders completle vertical, they then have to hone/bore the block after that to straighten things out. I'd say just barely below the deck height, so it doesn't touch the head gasket. Here's mine:

 

My block guard is flush with the deck height. It gives the head and block a better sealing also with the strentgh of the top wall.

 

I don't know who the manufacturer of the block guard is 'cause I bought it used from a friend for $25. It does not look like any of the two pictures that are posted. I have modified it so it now looks more like the STR block guard. I am planning to send it to the machine shop to have it bored for the new pistons any way, so the fact that the sleves may be shifted won't cause a problem after they get done with it and it should't cause any coolant flow or hot spots in the upper cylinder wall problems with it modified to look like the str piece. Thanks for the info.


[Modified by UnderFire, 11:46 PM 11/11/2002]

 

Someone posted that sleeving is the way to go as it provides strength throughout the entire height of the cylinder. Sleeving or posting the block is big bucks compared to a blockguard.
I think about 800.00 dollars U.S. I am wondering if there would be any advantage to placing 2 STR block guards in the block. One half way down the block and the other guard closer to the deck. This would more closely mimick posting the block. Anyone tried this, or care to offer their input? Just wondering because I'm thinking of buying an STR bockguard to strengthen up my d16a6 turbo.

 

I don't think you can do that because there is taper.

It cost me about $125 to post my own block. See the site in my sig for details.

Sonny

 

Are you going turbo? If you are staying allmotor don't put it in. it will just cause your engine to run hotter.

if you want to do it right, tapp the block gaurd in until it is flush with the deck. Then weld it into place and hav the block honed and decked, this is the only way to do it. it ensures that your cylinder's are perpendicular to the crank.

When you tap a block gaurd into the block it deforms your cylinder's creating more friction and a loss of horespower.

If you want to buy one I have two for sale.


[Modified by DC_nitro_monster, 6:32 PM 11/15/2002]

 

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! for one there are fingers on the outside of your stock sleeves that would have to be machined away(not a big deal) for two, the block gaurd in the middle would not allow you to get sufficient coolant inbetween the two block guards. Put two block gaurds in and whatch the temp gauge sore to H, maybe even crak a sleeve or two